Fairtax4me

You said no spark on 2&4. The first post says you do have spark on 1&2. Then you say you do have spark on 1&3. Plus 1&3 are on the right side of the engine 2&4 are on the left side (from inside the car). We need to know exactly which plugs are not getting spark. Otherwise we're just chasing our tails.

Legacy L 2.2 model would. Outback manual had 4.11s. 15.9 gallon tank would net you ~286 miles run dry. Go 220ish and fill it up to stay on the safe side.

Bad thermostat and/or low coolant. What color is the "fluid" under the car? What color is the coolant in the radiator? Is there any coolant in the radiator? (probably not if it's all on the ground ) Find the source of your leak. Thermostat seal, lower radiator hose, bypass hose, are all easy to get to. A bad water pump gasket is a bit more involved. (timing parts come into play)

Jingling keys = worn brake pads. Or it might be like my car where there is plenty of pad but they just squeak anyway.

Ej22 right? Look into a set of Delta Cams. No personal experience myself, but there are plenty of members here who run them and are very happy with them.

Never heard of it. I might have to look into it.

The yellow wire at the coil is 12V power. The other two wires go directly to the igniter. Check continuity of both wires (end to end) to rule out a broken/cut wire.

Wiggle some wires around under the hood while it's idling to see if you can get it to stumble or stall out.

If you can find a machine shop that does custom work they can cut some holes in it here and there, and re-balance. Probably cost a fair amount to have it done though. A light weight after market replacement is probably cheaper than paying to mutilate a stock/OE flywheel. There will be other effects from lightening the flywheel. You may get better throttle response and power in the higher RPM range, but you will lose starting torque. This generally means you will have to ride the clutch more to get the car moving. So the clutch wears out sooner, the flywheel is subjected to excess wear and higher temperature. You will also have more engine vibration at idle.

\Doesn't matter. The ENTIRE driveline spins when the car moves, regardless of FWD or AWD mode. The driveshaft still turns whenever the car rolls. The difference in FWD mode, the rears wheels will not BE DRIVEN by the transmission. If you were in a situation where AWD was needed, where the front wheels were able to slip, the rear wheels would not kick in to help move the car, they will sit there like dead weight.

My moneys on a bad U joint. But this got my attention At 146k an Ej22 is just getting broken in. What the hell did they do to warrant rebuilding an Ej22 at that mileage? 2 Options: 1.They never maintained the car, ever. 2. They were BSing you trying to get more money. Now down to brass tacks. If the differential was at fault, holding one wheel still would make it knock and click and carry on like a popcorn machine. When you had the car on jack stands, did you have all 4 wheels off the ground? Were the rear wheels spinning when the trans was in gear? They should, if not, check the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower. Small black box, 3/8" x ~1" . Open it, there should NOT be a fuse in it. If there is, remove it. The fuse gives power to the duty solenoid "C" that controls the fluid pressure on the center transfer unit clutches. When the fuse is in place, it disables the AWD, so the rear wheels will not get power from the transmission. With the fuse removed, the AWD works normally, the rear wheels get power. This will cause the whole driveline to spin, a four wheels, all four axles and the driveshaft. The driveshaft consists of 2 sections, has 3 U-joints, and is supported in the middle by a carrier bearing. Any of which can go bad and cause exactly what you describe.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ The one for 97 does not have a section for the SOHC engine if that's what you're working on. But 99 is the same setup, and the 99 FSM has the SOHC engine section.

I used some random compressor we had at work. Probably could have opened the spring with a brake spring tool though. These things are not very tough.

90% of the time the guides are fine. If the valve jammed in the guide there will be physical damage to the guide. I'd be more worried about the valve seats than the guides. But even then, I wouldn't think twice about throwing a couple new valves in and putting it back together.

That depends on exactly what the problem is. If it's a wheel bearing, probably gonna want to take it to a dealer or at the very least a competent Subaru repair shop. The bearing itself is not expensive but needs to be pressed out of the hub and a new one pressed in. This also has to be done with a special tool to support the hub to prevent it from being deformed. Brake issue. You need to remove the caliper and try to move the slide pins. They should move easily. If either feels stiff or doesn't move at all they are contributing to the problem if not the main cause. Brake caliper grease, new pins, new dust boots if the old ones are ripped, should be good to go.

I've been running 75w-90 full synthetic in mine. It cured the cold second gear crunch I was getting with 80w90. I can't say if the synthetic oil has helped the trans any. It has developed some other issues during the time the synthetic has been in service. But it doesn't crunch going into second gear anymore.

Stuck brake caliper would be my guess. The slide pins are probably rusted so the caliper can not move away from the rotor. Pretty common problem. Other possibilities: The caliper piston is jammed. The rubber brake hose has deteriorated and has blocked the return of fluid from the caliper back into the line. edit: also what he said^

I have a Draw-Tite hitch on my truck. It's rusty but nothing like that!

Any API GL-5 spec gear oil. 80w-90. 75w-90. 75w-140 works great for high heat/high power applications, but the cost is generally overkill for a daily driver.

Is there any physical difference between the sensors? Size, connectors, thread? The sensors will work the same, regardless of type or size, but if your wire harness fits one sensor and not the other, use the one that fits if possible.

Christ is looks like a Toyota truck under there! Not to put any fault on your end, but... this is why you look under the car. :-\

Should have the latter half at least of a VIN stamped on it somewhere. Lower bell housing I think, passenger side? (not 100% so don't quote me). Engine size stamp is on the top of the block behind the alternator. Pretty easy to see. Old style tensioner could have been swapped. Betting the whole engine was swapped after the timing belt went and bent all the valves.

A new OE Subaru flywheel from an online dealer runs about $230. If your local dealer will match online pricing (many will in order to get your business) you can probably get it for that or very close. If not, it'll be ~$325. Not what he asked, but Rockauto does carry some good parts. Shipping is a bear, but you can get many parts that a local chain store often doesn't have or even carry, and some of the same parts for quite a bit less $$. Of the flywheels offered by Rockauto, AC Delco is overpriced but generally high quality. Sachs makes OE suspension and clutch parts for many European makers. Sachs parts are good quality. The rest, I have no clue.

There was a change in the linkage, no real change in the trans itself. Not real sure of the difference between sensors, could be the difference between automatic and manual trans. Either way, on the manual trans it's on the passenger side of the trans near the dipstick. You should be able to see it from above with little trouble.

You sure that's not 9779.2 miles?! That car is pristine! Good find.