Fairtax4me

Maybe if they drove it that way for miles at a time. Sounds like the belt jumped and the car died within a few seconds. Not enough time for the ECU to run the fault diagnosis for the P0420. A current P0420 can not be set without the car being driven. The code must be old.

Guessing this is a 2.2? If the timing belt jumped there's a good chance it has valve damage. P0420 and P0325 are both common codes on these. You can search the board here and come up with plenty of threads on how to fix them.

try going back to a conventional 80/90 gear oil. Synthetic fluids are thinner and tend to be more slippery which doesn't help the synchros. Standard 80/90 conventional gear oil will not be as thin at operating temp as the synthetic.

Put a wrench on it and turn it back to it's proper position.

Continental makes very good performance tires. But like any other performance oriented brand, they don't wear long. You'll probably be lucky to get 20k out of them driven aggressively.

Do they sell turbo muffler bearings too? I need about a half dozen of those. And some blinker fluid refills.

E: DTC P0719 BRAKE SWITCH CIRCUIT LOW DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Brake switch malfunction, open input signal circuit TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Gear is not shifted down when driving a down hill. 08 FSM was the closest I could find, but that's Subaru's definition for P0719. Anyway, short answer is the TCU relies on input from the brake switch to determine when to downshift. An erratic signal or no signal can confuse the TCU, it recognizes there is a problem and illuminates the AT OIL TEMP light as a signal that something is wrong. The BCM (Body control module) reads the signal from the brake switch is erratic, stores the code and illuminates the MIL.

A big brass hammer can help keep the end of the axle in usable shape. Hold the brass hammer against the axle and pound on it with a mini sledge.

The other scenario is the boot cracked and fell apart from age, allowing rocks/dirt and other debris to get stuck to the rack which will then get pulled into the housing when you turn. It drags the dirt in along with it which destroys the seal. Low steering fluid will make a whining sound when turning. A bad differential will whine at speed (50mph or more in most cases) and change pitch, or disappear entirely, depending on load. A leaking rack will not stop leaking. Swap it with a junkyard rack and put new boots and tie rods on it then you won't have to mess with it for a long time.

Three's a crease in your upper radiator support beam. Might not account for all of that but it needs to be pulled back out about 1/2" probably.

Outback also has 4.11 final drive ratio which raises rpm over the base model Legacy which generally has 3.90 FDR. I don't know whats in my 95 AT wagon, it runs 2750ish at 70mph. My 96 MT sedan turns 3000 at 70.

Just put the Whitelines on my Wagon. I don't feel any difference in NVH, and the car tracks perfectly straight now. Plus the polyurethane won't deteriorate because of oil. I got them from "fast-imports" on Ebay for $37ish shipped priority mail.

Do the hinges bolt to the top of the fenders?

It may have just shifted the cross member or bent the bolts. If the bolts are bent you'll have a ton of fun getting them out.

X2 on bad turbo. Pull the intake tube off and I bet you can wobble the compressor wheel around like a joystick.

The screw driver method works fine. I used a 1/4" allen key on mine. Just don't forget that it's in the bellhousing. It'll get bent when you try to start the engine. Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn it until it's at TDC. Stick your screw driver or allen key into the hole it eh bell housing, and while pushing inward, rotate the crank in either direction a few degrees. You'll feel the tool skip then pop into one of the holes in the flex plate. Then the crank will not be able to turn in either direction.

There should not be so much slop that it makes crunchy and grinding noises. There are 8 or 9 bolts that hold the tail housing section on, and you have to remove the linkage for the shifter. Then there are two alignment dowels that can be knocked out with a punch and the tail housing section will pull off. The paper gasket will hold it somewhat so you may need to tap it with a mallet to get it loose. You can see the dowels in this pic. One at the top and one at the bottom. The transmission is laying on it's right side in the pic. The transmission output shaft (the long one) and the center differential have to be pulled out together. They will come out by hand with a bit of wiggling.

Sounds like it's dependent on speed. Try getting the wheels balanced.

Any recent work done? Plugs, wires, filters, PCV, when were they done last? Check engine light on? If not, does it work during the bulb test?

Hey does anybody have links for the info in the first post? The links are broken.

Just add a can of refrigerant with oil when refilling them system. Or you can pour about an ounce of the oil called for on the AC service information sticker under the hood directly into the low pressure side port, then spin the compressor hub a few times by hand to cycle the oil through the compressor.

Unless they drained it, a junkyard compressor will already have oil in it. Just don't flip it over and let any spill out through the hose ports.

X2 You can often find good radiators in junkyards, but should should know what to look for that may indicate a problem. You take the same gamble as with any other junkyard part.

Been driving my sedan for almost a month with no AC belt. Do seal up the ends of the hoses though. What was so hard about removing the compressor? Just remove the 4 long bolts from the side and it lifts straight up.

Warranty? Should have said that before. Take the damn thing back can tell them it's messed up. No reason to take it apart if you can get another one for free.