Fairtax4me

I know that, But he's asking if the knuckle on his car may be deformed because of the wheel flopping around. At least that's how I perceived it. Of course if the bearing was replaced by a previous owner, it could have failed due to improper installation/deformation of the knuckle.

The spring should go pretty much straight across. The retainer washer might be on backwards. I don't know of differences in the springs but there were differences in the linkage between several years. The springs may be slightly different length to accommodate that. Your build date should be on the sticker on the drivers door.

Misfire codes go by cylinder. P0301 is cylinder 1, 302 is cylinder 2, 303 is cylinder 3, and so on. Misfiring after rain could mean moisture is getting into the spark plug wells or the coil pack. Pull the plug wires and look for water on the ends.

You would have to get into an accident to deform the hub or knuckle. You may find that once you get the wheel off the ABS wheel speed sensor is damaged because of the wheel flopping around and that might be the cause of your ABS problem.

I've seen this happen on a few cars. I figure it's just a worn detent spring in the signal switch, but I've never had one apart to find out.

Lifters can take all the time in the world to pump back up after having the head off. That will go away eventually. Like Gary said, misfiring under load is generally a symptom of poor spark. Bad wires or worn plugs are the common causes for that. This is not a good sign. Blowing into the cooler will not reveal a small leak. Transmission fluid is under a fair amount of pressure as it moves through the cooler, it will push through something as small as a pinhole that you can't detect with air. Any water in the transmission will damage the clutches so you would be smart to change out the fluid asap and bypass the cooler for now until you can determine if it is leaking. You say the cam is of by a half tooth on the drivers side, but in which direction? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? Did you use Subaru head gaskets? If no, which brand did you buy? Did you follow the torque procedure to the letter?

The stop screw is difficult to see sometimes. I could also be the throttle body is full of carbon, and the build up on the throttle plate is causing it to stick. A good cleaning of the throttle body and idle control motor could help the low idle issue as well.

Thanks for the info. I dug around in the FSM I have and couldn't come up with anything. Guess I'm in the clear then. I use 5w-30 in both engines. The sedan was changed about 7-800 miles ago. The wagon has ~1800-2000 miles on the oil. I think I'll switch it to the high mileage mix I run in the sedan after I get the head gasket fixed.

Great! Good to hear you got it put back together, and that it still works.

Yeah, those must be some special wheels... or he's

The HUB won't do you any good because it doesn't come with the BEARING. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219386 The bearing is the same whether it is for ABS or non-ABS.

The axle can not move inside the hub. If the hub and wheel moves separate from the knuckle, the wheel bearing is bad. Because of complications with replacing the wheel bearings on these, lots of people grab the entire knuckle with bearing and hub from a junkyard and swap the whole assembly, rather than replacing the bearing. The bearing has to be pressed in, and quite often the knuckle gets deformed which causes the bearing to fail prematurely. To avoid this the knuckle needs to be supported a with a certain tool during assembly. If you choose to replace just the bearing, take the knuckle assembly to a Subaru shop to have them press the bearings out/in. This community likes to hear the final word on the repair that fixes an issue. It can help others who may have a similar issue, so thank you for bringing it back from the archives.

Try cleaning the idle control valve. Seafoam works pretty good for that.

Pull the wire connector off the MAF sensor and see if there is corrosion or dirt on the pins and sockets in the connector. Did you check the fuel for water?

Wondering if anyone knows what normal warm engine idle oil pressure should be for an EJ22? Back story. My wagon has been ticking like crazy the past two weeks or so. Lifters ticking, fading in and out. Cold engine they didn't do it but once it got warmed up they started making noise. Not knowing the full history of this engine I figured it would be worthwhile to check the oil pressure. I was kinda surprised to find the gauge sitting at around 12 psi at idle. It picks up to around 35-40 psi by 2000 rpm, and continues to climb with higher rpm. I checked this engine not long ago and had higher numbers at idle, but I wasn't sure if the engine just wasn't warmed up all the way, or if there was some type of problem internally that might account for the drop. So today I tested the engine in my sedan, and got the same readings. Around 12psi at idle, climbing to 35-40 psi around 2000 rpm. Should 12psi be normal? :-\

I'm not cheap. I just look at it with a more institutional perspective. To the right buyer the sky is the limit. If you went to a bank and asked for a $25-30k loan to buy a 9 year old Subaru with 115k miles on the odometer. They're just going to laugh you out the door. To them it's just a running, driving car. The mods don't make it worth any more than a bone stock car. It has an engine, a transmission, wheels. The rest are just add ons that limit the already small resale market of an STI to an even smaller crowd. This car was obviously built to be able to handle the power that it was built to produce. Your market is a person who wants what this car was built to be, without having to do the foot work to put it together themselves. You found that person, made your money back and then some. :cool:

It depends on if you trust the water pump to make it to 210k miles. I don't think I've never seen one go that far, subaru or not. The Ebay kit just has a generic picture.

Ok you see that metal arm with the roller bearing on the end of it. That's called the detent spring. The bearing on that is supposed to ride on the "manual plate" which is that part with the teeth on it right next to it. Reset that if you haven't. It should have one bolt holding it to the trans case. I can see one other problem you might have, there is a rod over top of the valve body that attaches to the manual lever. The rod fits into the end with the hole. That rod is called the parking rod, which I assume means it engages the parking pawl. It looks like it just slides into a hole in the case, but it's impossible to see with the valve body still in the transmission. There is also what looks like a spring on the other end of the rod that could have fallen off. (Pics in the FSM I'm looking at are not very clear) I'd remove the detent spring and move the selector lever by hand while you make sure the transmission will go into park. Try to spin the wheel that's off the ground to be sure. If that works, re-install the detent spring, put the pan back on, cross your fingers and hope it works. If the trans doesn't go into park when the selector is moved to the park position you'll probably have to pull the valve body to see how to put the rod back in place. There is also another rod that connects from the valve body to the bottom end of the manual lever. You'll have to track that down and try to get it reconnected if you haven't. The FSM suggests placing the selector in second gear during installation the valve body to get the rod inserted properly. I have no idea how it would be done otherwise. Hopefully you can figure something out. From looking at the pic there, it looks like the rod might have slid into the valve body. I'd try the paper clip/pick approach first to pull it out to where you can grab it. That's what I would try, but I don't have an open transmission in front of me to play around with. All I can really say beyond that is good luck.

You can get one from 1stsubaruparts.com for about $75. But then you'd have to pay shipping. part number: 22060AA070

Ahh ok. Yeah I don't know what might have broken if it did. Maybe something inside the case just popped out of place if you turned the lever over too far. That means you get to drop the pan THIS website has an FSM for 92 Legacy. That FSM should also have some relevant info on the 4EAT trans.

Sounds normal to me. Both wheels off the ground it doesn't matter what "gear" it's in, including park, they will still spin. Autos need fluid pressure in order to engage the clutches and bands. This means the engine has to be running. With the engine off there is no pressure so regardless of which gear the trans is placed, the wheels can still be spun by hand, the car can be rolled, etc. In park the parking pawl just sticks up into a notch in the output drum of the trans. The output drum drives the differential pinion gear directly, so when it is placed in park the differential is essentially locked in place. But because of the way an open differential works, if both wheels are off the ground, spinning one wheel just causes the other to spin the opposite direction. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm Cable adjustment is important since the length of the cable between the transmission selector lever and gear selector in the console determines which gear the transmission goes into when the console selector is moved. When you place the console selector in the park position, you want the transmission selector to move to the park position and stop on the holding detent. If it doesn't stop on the detent, it may pop out of park (or other gear) on it's own and the car can roll away. Check the adjustment of the cable.

My wagon didn't have that cover. The bell housing was full of pebbles and sand. Not a big deal for an automagic. A clutch might not be too happy if some of that blew up into the pressure plate.

Where's the pics!?

Sounds electrical for sure. What about battery cables? A loose ground cable can do this kinda thing.

I'd start by looking for a vacuum leak somewhere. I don't know which years have MAP sensors and which didn't. Yours may not have one. The ECU still uses a MAP value but it calculates it based on input from other sensors. This value should still be visible on a scanner, but it may depend on the scanner. BTW what year is this thing? 2.2 or 2.5?