Fairtax4me

Apparently it was a pretty big problem. Every one of the cars of this era that I've ever looked under the hood of has a Subaru reman sticker on the alternator.

X3 The "dumb girl" thing goes out the window when you actually ask for advice.

Well in this case it sounds like a reputable and knowledgeable shop diagnosed it, and likely are correct. Have the heads machined by a machine shop before you reinstall them to give the best possible chance for a good seal. And be sure to be familiar with the torque sequence before tightening the head bolts. You do not need new head bolts on Subaru engines. Tools. You will need a 14mm 12 point socket for head bolts. At least 1/2" drive. An accurate torque wrench is a must. A torque angle gauge may come in handy, but if you are good with judging angles (90°) it's not necessary. Other than that, an assortment of regular hand tools, metric sockets and wrenches.

There is a service sticker under the hood, usually on top of the header panel, that says what the system is designed to hold. X.X oz of the approved type of oil, X.X grams of refrigerant.

23700AA34ARA https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Copy and paste it into the search box to see their price.

Pull the tail shaft and transfer housings off and check out the transfer gears and center differential assembly. Those can all be replaced without a complete tear down of the transmission. Anything forward of that requires the case to be split, and generally means you should just get a new used transmission.

I thought I said it was the one on the back of the head. Must have cut that part out by accident. (My replies generally consist of a bunch of rambling that gets cut down to the parts that make sense before I hit submit)

Are you SURE it is leaking from the head gaskets? 2.2 head gasket failure is rare. Oil leaks are not, and quite often oil leaks can appear to come from the head gaskets, oil pan or rear main seal, though they stem from other sources. There are three places that very commonly leak on this engine. The valve cover gaskets, the cam seals, and the oil separator plate. One seal in particular that creates a lot of problems is the rear cam O ring on the back of the passenger side head. It's under a metal cap with 2 bolts securing it to the head. Remove the bolts and twist the cap to remove it and the O ring can be swapped. A generous coating of oil and a little twist the cap will slide back into the recess in the head. There is a similar seal on the driers side head. It's a round plug seal. It's very difficult to change with the engine in the car. Mostly because it has to be pressed/tapped into the bore.

You said it, not me.

Bushings, strut mount, broken spring, broken sway bar link are a few possibles.

I like to make my own sandwiches thank you very much. But you can do some other things in the kitchen if that's where you prefer to be.

My thoughts exactly. Get one for like $5 from a junk yard. Takes less time to replace than hunting down wires, cutting/striping and soldering in a resistor. Then it works the way it's supposed to. If it doesn't fix the problem. The wiring is the problem and a resistor won't fix that either.

And a $93 oxygen sensor is cheaper?!

Auto or manual trans? Auto trans has separate oil for the front differential. Have you driven the car and that's when you noticed the noise? Or are you spinning the wheels with it on jack stands?

I still don't understand. Since when do females have logic?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610

She has a code for a knock sensor. But she wants to replace the O2 sensor first? Refer her to my Knock Sensor 101 thread.

As long as you have the 2 studs at the bottom the long bolt through the starter, and one bolt in the other top corner, you're golden. The rest is dead weight.

Using Zip ties can help hold the belt on the sprockets while you are trying to get everything set. Once the sprockets are set to the proper marks, I hang the belt, zip tie it to the passenger cam. Then rotate the cam by hand a little to give some slack while I set the belt on the crank. Turn it back to take the slack out, adjust if the mark doesn't line up. Then I set a wrench across the top of the crank sprocket, between the belt and the crank sensor. This holds the belt in place so I have two free hands to set the belt on the drivers side cam. A 17mm wrench, or socket on a breaker bar to turn the drivers side cam just a little bit clockwise away from the timing mark, pull the slack out of the belt and set it on the sprocket, turn it back to the mark or until the belt has no more slack. Adjust if necessary. Hold the belt taught by hand and move the tensioner bearing into place. Once the bearing is there the weight of it will keep the belt in place, move the wrenches out of the way and bolt on the bearing.

I saw the good side first, and thought I might have found a good white hood for my wagon. Then as I got closer and saw the OTHER side... It was good. Actually it was nearly perfect. Certainly worth paying $50 for. One small ding, and a couple small chips in the paint near the grille. Until that happened of course.

Explain what the symptom is, why it was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed in the first place.

Imagine putting holes in the bumper of THIS CAR, with a $3,900 matte finish paint option, just to mount the front license plate bracket. I told the guy he should just pay the ticket IF he ever gets one on one of the half dozen or so drives he would take the car out of the garage for in a years time. Yes it was destined to sit in a garage, while he spent most of his time in NYC. Guy said mount it anyway. I'm trying to find a pic of the setup I made for my Lincoln but I think it was on my old hard drive that got wiped out. I can take another one tomorrow to show what I did.

These cars have their fair share of rust issues. On the Legacy wagons there is a small space inside the rear fender well that will rust out, the Impreza may be similar. But it's just a shield area. It's not a structural part of the car. The thing about a Unibody car, (unibody means the frame structure is designed into the body/passenger compartment structure of the vehicle, rather than building a body to sit on top of a frame like a pick up truck) If one area rusts a little, there is usually plenty of other structural support to hold up in a crash. The whole car would have to be badly rusted to compromise the "cage structure" of the frame, which is the part that protects occupants during a crash. The rear cross member/ sub-frame is a bolt on section of the rear suspension. It's basically what holds the rear suspension to the frame of the car. Those can and do rust out, the bolts that hold it to the car will rust, the bolts that hold the rear suspension parts to it will rust. The salty roads are what does it, and once it starts it doesn't stop. Generally repairs where multiple rusted bolts need to be removed do not go smoothly, bolts seize and then break when trying to remove them. The cross member has to come out in order for the fuel tank to be removed, which is why you want to hope you don't have to remove the fuel tank. Is yours rusted that badly? Probably not yet, it's pretty evident when rust is bad on the cross member. When you get under the car, take some pics of the under carriage and post them up. I bet plenty of people here have just as much or way more rust. I can think of one thread right off the top of my head where I'm 98.6% positive the poster has a much bigger, much more worrisome rust problem than you do.

Mmmyyyyeah probably not. Hold the license plate up to them I bet the holes will line right up. If you're really dead set against putting holes in your bumper, you can make some brackets from stuff at lowes that will reach up under the bumper to the reinforcement behind the cover. I did that on my Lincoln. Had to drill some holes in the reinforcement, but it was aluminum so it was easy. I think Subaru's use plastic so it's even easier.

The fill tube is metal and rubber, and probably some plastic too. The section that generally gets replaced is the metal section because it rusts out. What you'll probably run into is rusted bolts and broken brackets even tryin to get the evap canister out of the way to get access to all the tubes back there. But anyway. If you remove the canister (it's the large black box) there is a round thing over top of that that is an air filter. There are two hoses that attach to it, one of them leads to an electric valve that opens to control airflow going into the fuel tank. The other hose (should be short) leads to a bracket and either ends or pokes up into the frame, which is where the spiders that Bru mentioned would probably sneak into to make their cocoon pod things to sleep out the season in. This is a known issue on other makes of vehicles, Saab has a TSB about this problem. Another auto maker (can't remember which it was exactly) just issued a recall about this. One trick you can try during fill up. Don't push the pump nozzle all the way into the fill tube, just push it in a couple inches just enough that it will hang in the filler and not slip out.