Fairtax4me

What model Impreza? That will determine the difficulty and amount of swearing required to remove the engine for the clutch replacement.

Sounds good. I'll probably just grab a bottle of Permatex from the parts store. Wouldn't you know I never did remember to call Delta though. Work + hot outside = short memory.

No kidding!? Can't imagine why you would ever want to move away from here. I'm looking into putting a set of 27"s on my sedan if I ever manage to get the lift kit put on it. Don't think it will look quite like that, but it's kinda what I'm aiming for.

Change the fluid a few times and see how it does. These Subaru automagic transmissions are fairly robust. My 95 wagon is sitting at 180k. It still shifts better than just about every other automagic I've ever owned. Off topic: What size tires are on your hatch?

Put the sensor back. It will run better still with the sensor in place and working.

The throttle cable is very easy to check. Simply push on the throttle lever and see if you can make it close any further. Cable issues are not common, but do happen. I saw one that would only happen when hot, but the throttle would stick at about 3500 rpm. Tech replaced the throttle cable and all was well.

Connect the two green plugs under the dash and turn the key to ON to put the ECM in test mode. See if the solenoid clicks every half second. Check the connector for a 12 volt pulse while in test mode. A likely place to check for wiring issue or poor connection is the large junction blocks on the passenger side of the bell housing. They often get dirt/corrosion on the pins inside the connectors and can cause some big problems.

I got my cams from Delta yesterday! Hopefully I'll get to pull the engine out of the wagon this weekend and finally fix head gasket, and oil leak. In the meantime, I'd like to ask those of you who have installed cams in these engines (95 Ej22) what lube you like to use during installation, and do you run any type of ZDDP enriched oil for break-in? As far as I know roller rocker setups don't need the extra zinc additives for regular operation, but do they need anything special for initial break-in? Figure I'll call Delta tomorrow and ask what they recommend as well. Just would like to hear what other people have used.

To answer your original question, your car has struts on all four corners. The part descriptions on the store computers can be misleading sometimes. Technically it's a shock absorber, but the whole assembly (spring and shock put together) is called a strut.

Was it making that noise before you had the oil changed? The torque converter is the mechanism that transfers the rotation of the engine to the transmission. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/torque-converter.htm I wouldn't worry about the oxygen sensor too much yet. That code is for the rear sensor which is just a check sensor for the catalytic converter. It won't affect the way the engine runs.

Try contacting Ohio Generator and see what they can do for you. I've heard great stuff about them in the past. Not sure how their prices are these days but they used to be pretty reasonable.

I usually use Rockauto.com for this. Click on the highlighted part number next to the product and it brings up a list of all years and models that part will fit. Oreilly's website has a similar service as well.

The word "knock" is used to describe many different conditions. The type of knock that the knock sensor detects is "Spark knock", also commonly known as "Pinging", or incorrectly, "valve rattle". This is a noise created by excessive combustion pressure. Your knock at start-up is a different kind of knock entirely. That's a dry valve train. I would guess the oil weight is too heavy, so the rockers don't get the correct oil pressure right away. An oil change with the proper 5w-30 grade oil, and a quality oil filter such as Purolator should cure that.

I can only assume it was removed because it was causing problems. Whether it failed or was just plugged up and causing a running issue is hard to say. It isn't necessary per-se, but it does help prevent detonation (spark-knock), and helps control emissions by lowering the temperature of the combustion chamber under certain driving conditions. Overall though, it's not worth putting back unless you REALLY want to get rid of the CEL.

Right. A "red check" is a chemical process for checking for cracks. I've never done it. Always just pay the machinist to do it when I get a cylinder head resurfaced. I think the kits are kinda expensive. Not sure if it's something you can get at a local parts store, but you can always order stuff online.

Read this thread concerning the P0325 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610 Oxygen sensor is a typical replacement item after 100k miles. Could be a dead sensor, or it could be related to the problem. I'm not 100% sure on the EGR valve, which years had it and which didn't. There was a year that all engines got EGR valves. Before that automatics had it and manuals for the most part didn't. If yours doesn't have EGR, but you have a code for it, then you might have an engine swapped car. Very common for people to swap a dead 2.5 out for a 2.2, so it's not inconceivable. Pic of an EGR valve just incase you don;t know what to look for. http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3576/4601/21439800015_large.jpg Back side of the intake manifold on the drivers side. Easy to spot. The P0740 code can have a few causes. Several sensors, wire harness problem, could even just be related to a running issue. It won't typically cause any problems though. Worry about the other stuff first. The knock sensor problem is a big one on these and could very well be the cause of your shaking/vibration.

Auto or manual trans? Kinda sounds like a misfire. Typical misfiring under load due to old plugs and wires. Might be worth it to just replace those anyway if they haven't been changed recently. Get the other tune-up stuff too, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve. Probably have some loose heat shields too. That's the rattle sound. Drivetrain related, heavy vibration such as that is consistent with a failed U joint, carrier bearing, or CV joint, or poor quality replacement half-axle. Drivetrain issues do not tend to be intermittent in nature (there one minute, gone the next). Axle or driveshaft problems will generally be present under load of some sort, (accel/deceleration), or at certain speeds when driving. This lends credence to an engine condition as the source of your problem.

I think it's stuffed up under the dash on the drivers side.

Straight water expands more and boils sooner than water/antifreeze mixed. Hoses at the dealer are only like $15 a piece list price. They fit perfectly, no cutting/trimming. That hose in the pic was definitely well past time to be replaced.

Come to think of it. With out the engine attached to the transmission, you can probably just push the transmission to one side far enough to pop the axles off. Once the pin is out you literally only need like 1/2" of extra clearance to slide the axle cup off the differential stub. You probably could do it with the axle still on the car, but seems like it would be a PITA that way. Much easier to work with it on a bench with a vise.

:banana: Have a beer on me! Congrats! Oh yeah, #@$% all you PNW people with your nice cool weather!!! I don't think we've quite broken into triple digits today, but it's really close. And I can hardly see down the street because of all the humidity.

I pulled the transmission out of my car without even taking any of the suspension apart. I knocked the roll pins out, then lowered the transmission a couple inches and slid the axles right off. You might have to undo the transmission mount and slide the transmission back away from the front cross member some to do it that way, but I thought it was easier than fighting with ball joint bolts, struts bolts, positioning the knuckles right so you don't screw up the alignment.

It shouldn't unless you keep pounding on the end after it pops loose from the hub. The inner CV joint on the axle allows enough play for the outer end to move an inch or so without applying any force to the other end of the axle.

My god, how could you have possibly put up with this for YEARS without getting a second or third, or even fourth opinion!? Spongy brake pedal usually means there is air in the lines. Improper bleeding, or old fluid as Nipper said are the usual causes. Ploosibilitities: Someone could have replaced the fluid with the wrong type. Not all brake fluids are created equal. The master cylinder could be damaged internally. Caliper pistons could be sticking. Start with the fluid. It's cheap and easy. I like the Valvoline Synpower? synthetic stuff in the Grey bottle. It's Dot4 equivalent which has a higher boiling point so it lasts longer. Also helps firm up the pedal, even compared to brand new Dot3.

You sure that's not just metal paste stuck all over it? Manual transmissions tend to make alot of very fine particles that somehow find a way to seemingly super glue themselves to everything in the transmission. Takes a bit of scrubbing to get them all cleaned off. That's crazy if it really got hot enough to burn itself.