Fairtax4me

When does the sound occur?

Yes, very easy, the trick is to replace only one mount at a time and use a prybar to wiggle the engine/mounts around where you need them to be.

I always wondered what those rings were all about. Good thing I didn't start messing with them and find out the hard way like I usually do! Assuming they do the same thing on the manual trans? Sorry to hear of the wrecked car. Hopefully whoever was aboard at the time is OK.

Chances are the used compressor was near failure in just the same way yours was when it went to the yard. Rebuilt compressors are big gamble. Generally what gets replaced is only what's actually bad. Your best bet for longevity is brand new, or a reman with a warranty. But most reman compressors with a warranty require replacement of the condenser, evaporator, and accumulator at the same time so there is no chance of debris (dirt, metal shavings, oxidation, etc) getting into the compressor and destroying it. That can get quite expensive, so unless you really want to spend $1,000+ on renewing your entire ac system, stick with the used parts.

I saw that one while I was searching. I like it but I'm not sure if I want to make a replacement bumper or something that just fits around the outside. I'm also not sure how I would mount the thing. I looked behind the bumper cover on my car and it looks like the reinforcement is actually fiberglass/plastic. Which is nothing unusual, but it means I can't mount it to the existing reinforcement, I'd have to make something that will mount directly to the frame instead. I need to remove the front bumper cover anyway to fix up some ghetto rigging that was done by our wonderful body shop when it was in there a few years back for a front end collision. I think it's only attached by 3 screws right now.

I'll second that. They did something wrong, there's just no way a brand new turbo goes bad in under 100 miles.

Handy I am, with a welder, not so much. The most I've done with a welder is burn a hole through the pipe trying to weld an exhaust hanger back on on my old Toyota truck. Though it would be fun, and certainly cheaper to custom fab something, I have no clue what would be best to use, nor where to get it.

There is a tone that is very diesel about the engine when it's running. The familiar clatter is still there, but it's so muted in the new design that just a regular conversation will drown out the sound of the engine. And the biggest difference is just in the way the fuel is injected.

So here's the deal. I've hit two deer in the past 3 months with the soob. Not hard, I've been fortunate enough to see them coming. The first one broke a tab on the passenger headlight and put a shallow dent in the end of the hood and fender, and broke one of the clips that holds the bottom of the grille. The second bounced off with no visible damage, except for breaking the same clip on the grille, which I had just replaced after the first encounter. So I just know the big one is coming. I put a grille bar on my truck and within a week I popped one good that would have surely gone through the grille. Now I know there are decent bullbars and grille guards for the Legacy, but are there any that won't cost me $2,000 to get it? I would LOVE to have an ECB bar like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUBARU-OUTBACK-BULLBAR_W0QQitemZ220526086308QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item33586108a4 but I'm not paying 5, 6, $800 or more JUST to ship it across the pond from Australia. Does anybody know of a closer (in the U.S.) source for a decent bar that will keep the deer out of my radiator and away from my headlights? (and not cost $2,000 like the Subaxtreme bars, even though it would be sweet to have it, I don't see buying a grille bar that costs more than the car is worth)

I'd just replace the belt. I can't imagine that belt having 89k miles on it, but if you've owned the car more than a year, just put a new one on.

Now honestly, what's wrong with good old stainless steel from your local hardware store? I bought screws from the local chevy dealer once. $70 for 14 screws for a flywheel and pressure plate. I could have had the same things in grade 8 steel from the hardware store for less than $5, but I was young and stupid.

Harmonic balancer. My ej22 has it, I'm not sure which ones should have it and which ones didn't but I've seen a few that are one way and some the other. Crank but no start. Do you have spark? Id suspect damage to the Crank angle sensor, but a broken belt due to debris getting in under the belt isn't out of question. Got a scanner you can hook up to see if you have any codes?

That's part of it. The main thing is atomization of the fuel, which makes a much cleaner, more efficient burn. Direct injection uses a MUCH much higher line pressure, in the 1,200 - 1,800 psi range (some even higher maybe), whereas port injection is around 35 - 70 psi in most applications. The Mercedes Benz new Bluetec common rail diesels with direct injection run over 20,000 psi.

This is a pretty well covered topic here. Search for Oil Separator Plate. You'll get a ton of threads on it. Might even be able to find the part number for the metal one you need.

Yeah they're two entirely different beasts. I've been picking up some info about diesels here and there from the techs at work. I always wondered why diesels don't make vacuum, why you have to have a separate pump for vacuum driven parts such as the brake booster and engine shut off valve. I was watching as one of the techs disassembled the top end of one for a head job and finally noticed it had no "throttle body". Technically it does, but not in the same sense as that of a gas engine. Running lean is bad for gas engines due to the nature of the combustion of gasoline. A leaner mixture is a hotter flame. While it does make more power, (to a degree) it will eventually lead to hot spots in the combustion chamber that will act similar to a glow plug on a diesel. The thing about detonation is, most of the time it is due to high temperature in the CC, an overheating engine will start pinging like there's no tomorrow. But it's a snowball effect. The higher pressures created in the cylinder by the detonation make the CC temperatures even higher. At some point some some part part of the internals (exhaust valves most of the time, or carbon buildup) will start to ember (glow) and a hot spot of that nature can ignite the fuel as it enters the cylinder during the intake stroke. That means near instant death for a gasoline engine. You might get away with that once. What happens is the ignited mixture is already extremely hot, add to that the pressure created by the compression stroke. That can drive the CC temperature well upwards of 3,000°F which is enough to instantly melt a hole in the top of the piston. http://www.aa1car.com/library/piston_preignition_damage.jpg

The ECU can and does adjust timing to a degree. But it's not always ignition timing that causes pinging. Fuel quality, air quality, air density, air temp., combustion chamber temp., and many other things can affect the way the mixture ignites, and how stable it is before and after the spark plug fires. Pinging/detonation occurs after the spark plug has fired. So there is heat and pressure building in the chamber which causes the mixture to burn unevenly and/or cause spontaneous combustion in another area of the chamber. These two separate events cause a rapid pressure spike in the chamber which creates a sound wave that resonates through the block and internals of the engine, similar to that of a hammer strike. Funny thing is that it's an almost mechanical function of internal combustion. No mater what size the engine is, or who made it, the sound produced by detonation, though not always audible to human ears, is always the same frequency. The basic underlying cause is an unstable/incorrect fuel:air mixture for the conditions that the engine is operating under.

I would have replaced the whole thing. It's not that much for a good quality kit and you get the whole shabang. What brand of disc did you buy?

It could be a number of things really. From improper gap, to low compression. Hard to say.

So is that to say that a filter does not catch any of the smaller particles until after it has filled with the larger ones? Yes filtration does increase due to the gaps in the filter becoming smaller as particulate is captured. But I don't agree that a good quality filter is not designed to work as effectively as possible from day one.

Usually 87 should be fine. But that being a brand new engine you're probably burning a bit of oil while the rings are still breaking in. Even a small amount of oil can cause pinging by destabilizing the fuel. I'd run 89 for another couple thousand miles and then try switching back to 87.

A larger filter means more filtering media. You'll get less of a pressure drop through the filter at higher rpms, and increased flow which is good for the bearings and whatnot. K&N filters are generally larger than OE parts, and they also have tighter filtering tolerances. Plus a nifty 1" hex spot welded to the can for easy removal. Although I don't see the point, because if the filter is installed correctly you should be able to loosen it easily with your bare hand.

Get a transmission that matches the gear ratio of the rear diff or a trans and diff that match(from the same car). Pedals, shifter and linkage, a few wires for the switches and speed sensor, clutch kit and flywheel. And the proper length bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft. I don't know if the front axles are different from auto to manual, but you can cross reference the parts pretty quick to find out.

Is the idle speed constantly going up and down? That could be an indication of a vacuum leak.

I've seen a few of those valves get dirty and start leaking like there's no tomorrow. Those were all made by Fram though...

You need some of this. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-14211-permatex-indian-head-gasket-shellac-compound-2-oz-bottle-20539.aspx Stuff works wonders for small leaks, and keeps the hoses from drying out and cracking at the ends.