Fairtax4me

Well that makes you qualified to judge a CAR repair shop. Seriously guys, shut up. Don't clutter up this guys thread with your pissing match. I don't think anyone else here cares what the fastest race car is Alaska is, or who built the damn thing. Bottom line is, it doesn't matter, unless you have something useful to add to the thread stop posting in it. PM each other if you feel the need to continue with your childish bantering. Please, and Thank you.

And was it brand new or Reman.?

If you can find them use Denso. Those are the Original equipment plugs from what I understand, the ones you'd get from a Subaru dealer if you went there. If not the next closest thing would be NGK. If this were a european car Id say use Bosch. Best to keep countries of origin the same for cars and parts. It really does help.

Combination of worn bushings/ mounts. Id bank on a bad motor or transmission mount, or both.

I remember seeing a listing for an alternator for ~ $75 on 1stsubaruparts. I figured it was a factory reman. unit? https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215243&chapter=&Sectionids=4,0&groupid=0&subgroupid=0&componentid=0&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1996&graphicID=F732020&callout=1&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

X2 Take it out and see if you can figure out why it isn't spinning first. The squeaking isn't a good sign, but it may just need something simple like a twig or a dead mouse removed from it.

Yeah.... 55 + ANY amount of snow = bad news.

Camshaft locked is usually due to lack of oil. Silicone or other foreign matter clogged an oil passage to the cylinder head. Perfect time to drop in a 2.2 because you have no idea what else may be clogged without tearing down the whole motor. A 2.5 is just not worth all that work IMO. Next thing you know the bottom end (or would you call it the middle end? :-p ) will fudge itself and you'll be SOL.

Normally signs of worn drive line components come in the lower gears when the most acceleration torque is being applied. If the shudder is apparent in both heavy and light throttle conditions then it is possibly related to the axles or a loose wheel. If it's only there under heavy throttle I'd be looking at the U joints and drive shaft support bearing/bushing.

X2. A better description of the problem will help with diagnosis.

That is awesome! If I had a farm or a lot of land to hunt on I'd probably make/buy something like that.

I bought Trico Neoforms for my Lincoln back when I first bought it in April of 2007. That same original pair is still on the car today and they still clear the windshield perfectly. I do wash the car often, so they aren't doing double duty trying to scrape fried bugs and road grime off of my windshield, but two and a half years is still a feat for any wiper blade in my book. Granted, the performance of the blades is going to differ based on several factors. You have the curvature of the windshield, spring tension of the wiper arms, condition of the glass, temperature can even play a part to an extent. The condition of the rubber is a big factor. Rubber that is dried out (old) is harder and will not bend easily in the way it is meant to while wiping across the windshield. That is generally what causes the blades to chatter or jump. I have el-cheapo blades on my Legacy, they're actually replacement blade inserts ($3 for the pack). Been on a couple months, they chatter a fair amount if the windshield isn't really wet, but not too terrible. I'm sure they'll be shot before the end of winter, then I may try another set of the Neoforms, not sure. If you can, return the Bosch blades for another pair (or brand) of blades. It may just be that the ones you purchased had been in the store for a long time (not many people are willing to fork over $30+ for a pair of wiper blades) and were dried out or hardened from not being used.

Sounds like a misfire. Is the Check engine light on? Did you buy gas at a shady gas station?

Go universal, and solder the old plug onto the new sensors wires.

I always laugh at people in their 4wd trucks and SUVs that think they're bad muthas in the snow because they can "go" faster. They're usually the first ones to wreck. Then I laugh at them again when I drive by in my Rwd Lincoln. I might be driving sideways, but at least I'm still on the road. Besides that it's fun to steer with the gas pedal every now and then. And speaking of snow, we might get our first of the year here this weekend. Cant wait to try out the Soob in it!

The very first thing you should do is buy two more brand new tires of the same type as the ones you put on the front. You absolutely CAN NOT have mis-matched sized tires on an AWD Subaru!!!! There is a clutch pack in the transmission that will be destroyed if the front and rear tires have more than 1/4" difference in circumference. There are cases in which transmissions have died completely after having fluid flushes done. However... the damage was already done, there was not much, if any, hope for survival even if the fluid had been left alone. Change the fluid. If it forks itself, throw a manual in it and be happy. There are a few threads here on the forum about changing fluid. Do some searching and you will find instructions on how to do it properly. The shudder at speed. Could be a wheel bearing, a bent wheel, wheels that need to be balanced, could be a bad U joint, or drive shaft support bushing. Or it could just be crappy tires that need to be replaced, or be due to the tires being smaller circumference than the fronts due to wear. Again, 2 more new tires first, worry about the rest later. Adding on to this. There is a fuse holder on the rear side of the passenger front strut tower under the hood that says FWD on it. That is there to disable the AWD system and make the car solely FWD. If I were you I'd put a fuse in that holder if you plan to drive the car at all. Any size fuse should do since all it does it actuate a relay. Best thing is to not drive the car until you get new tires on the back. If there is already a fuse in there, then there is likely already damage to the transmission, and further driving is probably not going to make any difference. Search for "Torque Bind" here on the forum and you will find some good threads about what is damaged and how to fix it.

That is one greasy pig of a motor! X2 on trying to save the 2.2. You may even be able to just run a tap into the block and clean up whatever threads are still there. If it's only in there 3/8" or so, the remaining good threads beyond that should be enough to hold the new head bolt securely. The remaining parts shouldn't be that hard to figure out where they go, as long as they're all there.

AWD should not "kick in", it should be constant. Some more details would help. What's the sub model? How many miles? What kind of tires are on the car? What speed does this feeling occur at? Does it occur when going around a corner or just going straight? Have you had an alignment done lately? Did you try putting some weight in the back of the car to see if that affects it?

Funny things these wasted spark ignition systems. You may have spark on all 4, but the question is, is that spark occuring inside the combustion chamber? Compression makes it harder for the spark to jump the gap in the plug. The spark is then discharged entirely through the opposite side of the coil, into the cylinder that has no compression. Resulting in a no start situation. The spark may be there, but it doesn't have enough behind it to jump the gap in the plug when under compression. Try swapping in a known good coil pack and see what you get out of it.

Good to hear you got it fixed up.

Is this a wagon or sedan? There are two plugs near the washer fluid tank. One is for the front washer motor, the other is for the rear washer motor for the wagon models. The rear washer motor plug will still be there even on the sedans, but will not be operational. The front washer plug should be bright green, and the rear washer plug is white/grayish color. Make sure the correct plug is connected to the pump. Check for power at the connector. The pump is grounded through the switch. There are 3 connectors in line to the switch which could be corroded or damaged, but a bad switch is more likely than poor connections. But like I said, check fuses first. Fuse number 2 in the panel under the dash is the washer motor. The power wire at the pump is white and light blue I believe. The "ground" at the connector is Light green and red. Ignition switch has to be in the On position for the circuit to get power.

Plenty of people use them on Imprezas. But just like plain rotors, many factors can contribute to warping. From driving style, to maintenance habits, to metal quality.

Check the fuses first. Could be any number of things causing the problem though.

Lo Jack is a subscription service. No need to worry about the law as I'm sure yours hasn't been active for quite some time. I'm pretty sure you have to take the unit to an installer to have it re-activated. But you can put it in any car you want now!

Switches are often the causes of intermittent symptoms. I'd grab a switch from a junkyard to try. Also be sure to check the contacts in the wire harness plug to the switch. Corrosion/dirt/water causing a bad connection can lead to a lot of problems. To clarify, the switch in question is the neutral position switch, not the neutral/clutch start switch.