Fairtax4me

I think it would be easier to install an after market system. Unless you're looking for a challenge?

It may not be that relay that is causing the problem, but rather that relay may be exhibiting a symptom related to the problem. If the relay is clicking then the coil side is being energized and de-energized, probably through a short. The trick is to find out where the short is.

Not sure what relays there may be under the dash on the passenger side. Those should all be on the drivers side. Have you pulled the kick panels off to see what all is under there as far as wiring is concerned? Someone on here has a FSM for the 92 model year on his website. I can't remember who it was but I'll look for it and post a link for you when I find it. Found it. Courtesy of Log1call. The file is 1992_legacy_full http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

:-\ True. Hadn't thought about the pressure plate. The clutch isn't great, but it has enough left in it to get through the winter as long as I don't drive it too hard.

TC systems vary by the manufacturer. Some of them are so intrusive that the car can hardly be driven in the snow with the system on. My Lincoln won't even move in snow with the traction system on, unless the road is completely flat. Take it out in an empty parking lot and experiment with it.

No. To replace the TPS you need a volt meter, because the voltage signal at the ECM needs to be adjusted to within a certain specification. I apologize, I should have made that more clear.

Car has been doing this off and on since I got it. But now it has gone from doing it once and a while to doing it every day, to now doing it every time I push the pedal. It's coming from the engine compartment, I believe from the pivot inside the bell housing. Is it possible to make enough room to get in there and get some grease on the pivot ball without separating the engine/ trans?

X2 Front diff uses 80w 90 gear oil. 1.3 quarts according to the manual. Transmission uses Dexron 2 or better ATF.

Maintenance kinda depends on what you've done to it and when. The timing belt should have been done at 100k. That's the biggest concern with the 2.5, next would be the head gaskets. If they've been done then you shouldn't have to worry about much beyond regular fluid (motor, trans, rear diff, antifreeze, brake) and filter changes. It's a good idea to throw a power steering fluid flush in there every now and then too. Top speed, not real sure. Most cars are limited to around 120-130mph range. Best fuel efficiency is gonna be under 3000 rpm in 5th gear.

Swapping the knuckle is pretty easy. Disconnect the brake line and hose, remove all brake components. Loosen and remove the axle nut, then drive the axle out. Pop loose the ball joint and tie rod end. Then remove the two large bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut. The axle won't come out all the way until you get the ball joint loose from the control arm, or separate the knuckle from the strut. You may want a ball joint separator, to get the ball joint and tie rod end loose, but it's not 100% necessary. You can loosen the castle nut to the end of the stud and then wail on it with a hammer to knock it loose. A pic for reference...

That's one of those repairs that makes your whole weekend. That could be a good tip for the USRM.

That sounds like worn brake pads and a loose tie rod end or lower ball joint. I see no reason to replace brake calipers unless they are leaking (around the piston) or the slide pins are completely rusted into the caliper and they can't be removed. Most of the time a new pads will suffice, and put some new grease on the slide pins. But if the slide pins are stuck, they need to be removed and either cleaned and lubricated (high temp grease) or replaced. The rotors may be grooved. You can have a machine shop turn them for a small fee, but they're only like $25 for brand new ones. You should just go ahead and replace them. All this can be done easily by the DIY mechanic with basic tools. It always helps if you can find a friend who knows more about it and get him/her to help. The ball joints are pretty easy to replace actually. (or at least should be) But you'll probably need a ball joint separator. They're $10 or so at most parts places. A split steering rack boot is fairly easy to replace, but the inner rod end may be loose if it has been exposed for any length of time. That is also easily replaceable, but requires an alignment afterwards. If you're gonna replace the boot, you might as well get the rod too. The wheel bearing is the hard part, and the easiest way is with a used knuckle, but I'm not sure you need one. You can do a few basic tests to detect play or wear in a wheel bearing. Searching the forums here should yield a few threads detailing the procedure.

Brake job on an ABS equipped vehicle is no different than any other vehicle. Unless the backing plates have holes rusted through them don't worry about them. They're not worth replacing unless they're literally falling off. Not worth paying dealer prices for new ones either. If you're hell bent on replacing them just get some from a junkyard that look decent. Might cost you $10 for all 4.

I don't think anyone has asked this yet.... What brand of head gaskets did you use?

So you put a new engine in it correct? Then patched up the wire harness? Does it crank but won't fire or will it not even crank?

Easier to get a used one from the junkyard and just throw it in there. Are you sure it's not the just hose that's leaking?

HEY! I'm a child safety seat EXPERT! I'm deeply offended by that remark!

Year model engine and miles please. Assuming this is something newer with a variable cam setup.

Check the boots on the steering rack, and the boots on the outer ends. If you find one cracked there's a good change that joint is the one that has failed. You can also use a pry bar to lift up on the tie rod ends if there is any vertical movement then replace the end.

You need to use a crankcase cleaner like Seafoam in the oil to help get the water out. And you may need to change the oil numerous times to get it all. That can get expensive. Your best bet for now is to pressure test the cooling system and make sure the gaskets are not leaking.

LATCH Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren You'd think they could come up with a better acronym. :-p I have no kids, therefore I use no latch.

Gearwrench is the brand. http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/xl_pass-thru_system/gearratchet/ Really cool tools, but the price tags are up there. Lifetime warranty on all tools. And they're tough as nails.

Reason I asked was because most Evap codes are two trips faults. Meaning that the fault has to occur on two separate "trip drive cycles" or trips in a row before it will set the CEL. If you make a couple of short drives each day the ECU may not have time to finish the checks that constitute a "drive cycle" for that system. What a drive cycle consists of changes for each monitoring system in the car. So a simple 5 minute drive may be enough for one system. But for another system there may be numerous conditions that need to be met in order for the cycle to be considered "complete". Plug in the two green connectors under the dash as suggested, and see if the vent control solenoid clicks when it is engaged. It should be accessible under the car near the fuel tank.

Not really. A Gearwrench ratchet would probably come in handy for something like that. They make extensions that are hollow so you can fit sockets over extremely long studs or threaded rods.

Search around the internet, Factory service manuals are available in PDF form. I have one for my 96. You might even put a thread in the wanted section and see if anyone on the board here can email you a copy. How far do you generally drive each day?