Fairtax4me

If it's getting a signal to fire then I would think it should fire. Did you check to see that the coil is getting power from the battery? You have a copy of the FSM don't you? The lines on the belt are hardly the best way to set the cam timing. But if it ran before just fine, then the timing is probably good unless the belt just straight up broke.

Get a spark plug off your old motor and plug it into one of the wires on the new motor. Set the plug on the block where you can see it and crank it to see if you are indeed getting spark or not. What all did you replace during the rebuild of the engine?

I'll keep it in mind. The interior in my car is kinda... brown? The only colors I've seen in the junkyards are grey and blue. And the seats are usually worn out as bad or worse than mine.

Best not to mess with the "guts" of a differential unless you have the tools to properly set the gears. Correct backlash and pinion depth are critical in a differential. If you get them wrong the gears will chew each other to pieces in no time.

Been getting colder here at night the past few weeks. The past few mornings I've walked out the door to see frost on the car. Which never bothered me... til I got this Subaru. I turn on the defroster as soon as I start the car, and by the time I get to work (roughly 15 minutes drive) about 1/8" of the frost on either side of each line has melted away. All of the lines work, they all melt the frost, just not very well. Is it just mine or are they all like that? I often have to parallel park at work and its no fun when you can't see out the back window.

One of the evap hoses is probably cracked or chewed through by a mouse or something. All of those components should be at the back of the car near the fuel filler tube. The pressure sensor is inside the car though to protect it from the elements.

CAN means Controller Area Network. It's a new twist on the On Board Diagnostics system that basically allows more information to be read. Cars are getting more and more new sensors every year, and the ODB system has to be able to communicate with those sensors in order for it to maintain proper operation, and more accurately detect faults when they occur. edit: He beat me to it.

Probably not much more. Most places I've been to charge about $40 for a throttle body, and in the neighborhood of $15 - $20 for a TPS. It's not difficult to swap, but you need to use a volt meter, and you have to pull up the carpet on the passenger floor to get access to the ecu.

Timing belt issues are common. They're supposed to be changed every 60k miles, but most people don't know that, or don't ever think to check it.

Evaporative emissions canister. It's to catch fuel vapor from the gas tank rather than letting it escape into the atmosphere and cause global warm... I mean, climate change. The engine sucks the vapors out when driving and burns them away.

How many miles on the car? It could be that the "new" ECU is dead. Hard to say though. Will it still start with the old one? All of those are circuit codes except for the misfire code. You could have a loose or broken ground wire somewhere causing the trouble. That would be the easy fix. My first thought was skipped timing belt. Has the timing belt ever been replaced? I'm also always suspicious of vacuum leaks whenever multiple codes show up, or general poor driveability is encountered. There are certain conditions that when present the ECU will cut power to the number one injector, kind of a Failsafe mode, to alert you that there is something seriously wrong and it needs to be checked out ASAP. Try searching those code numbers here on the board and you might come up with some other ideas to check.

Sweet, when can I order one?

Get the VIN for the car. Most likely, because CA emissions laws are so strict, the sticker states that the car exceeds emissions equipment requirements for an OBD1 car. I have a 96 sedan. It is OBD2.

A 96 will be OBD2. IIRC 1996 was the mandate year for OBD2. If it wasn't OBD2 by then, it couldn't be sold in the US.

Parts and labor, doesn't sound too bad. Did you have it replaced under warranty back when it first started rattling? I would have.

Oooh, where's that Endwrench article about the P1507 code... ? The P1507, I think it was only for manual transmissions that the article applied, but it seemed that that code was usually present with a ton of others if the neutral position switch was bad. P1700 is Throttle position sensor circuit malfunction. That's a manufacturer specific code, and though several manufacturers use that code, each one has a different definition for it. P1507 Idle control system fault. This, again, is a manufacturer specific code. P0122 is TPS sensor circuit low input. I'd be willing to bet all this can be cured by replacing the neutral switch, but I'll let another more informed member post their opinion.

That's good news. Yeah you probably want to replace the bushings in the shift linkage.

I think that's worse than usual. Most that I've read about the gauge reads empty with around 4 gallons left. Some people have reported improvements by running a bottle or two of Techron fuel system cleaner through the tank. You could try it, but it it doesn't work you'll have to either put up with it or replace the sender units in the tank. (there will be two of them if your car is awd, one for each side of the hump)

That engine light will probably lead you right to the source of the problem. Get the codes read and post the numbers here. I had a similar problem that was due to an internal break in the MAF sensor circuitry. Grabbed one at the junkyard and it was cured.

I could use a front seat but I think tan leather would clash pretty hard with the rest of my interior. :-p

As I said in your other thread. I'd bet it's still fixable. The pulley is replaceable. I bet the crank timing is off a tooth from the cams. The sprocket may be damaged, but again, it's replaceable. This is a pretty common problem on Subarus, and despite a grim diagnosis, is usually repairable.

I think he's more concerned about the torque converter pulling out of the transmission when he tries to separate the engine and trans. Just bend a piece of metal and bolt it to the bell housing to push on the converter. It doesn't need to be anything special, just as long as it will hold it there and not get in the way.

Still fixable I bet. If I had any money to spare I'd probably pick up that thing for myself. (the 98 I mean) After having the sedan I wish I had held out for a wagon.

Could be Autotraders fault. We've had trouble with them posting the wrong pictures in a listing several times. We usually end up with pictures of a Honda or a Toyota or something in the listing for a Mercedes or BMW. It could also be a rebuilt car. Flood damage, salvage title, etc. Go find that exact car and check the Vin against what is listed on the website. I promise it's not the same. Get the VIn for the car pictured and run a Carfax on it.

You should go ahead and replace the rear main seal. Use Subaru parts. Put a SMALL bead of anaerobic sealer around the bore the seal sits in before you install it to prevent potential leaks.