Fairtax4me

There is a procedure for setting the TPS that has to be followed for it to work right. You have to check the voltage feedback from the sensor at the ECU connector and adjust the TPS until you get it within the correct range. The idle code could just be a dirty IAC valve that needs to be cleaned. That's simple, requires nothing more than a $3 gasket, a can of cleaner and an old tooth brush. There are several threads here on the board about cleaning those. Takes about an hour at most.

Yeah, but it would just cycle on and off every 2 seconds or so, not stay on constantly. And all the lights in the dash, and all the relays and solenoids on the car would be flipping out too. Least that's what mine does in test mode. I have heard of similar problems to this with some older GM cars (early to mid 90's) . It usually gets fixed by installing a new ECU. Does the check engine light come on when you start the car?

Meh, maybe I'm just spoiled by my Lincoln. I think that thing could fry an egg on the rear window. It's 100% clear in about 3 minutes in the morning. It'll even melt away a pretty moderate amount of ice and snow in the winter. I have to remove the back seat to put in the new (used) rear struts I got today, so I'll pull the trim panels off while I'm in there and check it out.

Never used one of those but one of the techs at work has one and seems to like it. He only uses it once in a blue moon though. I might drop the money on a specialty tool if I planned to use it fairly often, but how often do you really have to change inner tie rod ends?

Correct, You add it to the differential, which uses separate fluid from the transmission, which is what he did. Bad U joint possibly. That may also make it wobble at higher speeds as well. Might the trans be shifting into second gear around that speed? Do you accelerate fast?

Just did this today. DO NOT count threads. I can say with 99% certainty that the new part will be different. I just did this today on the drivers side on my car. I'm lucky enough to work at a shop with an alignment lift though. Get a measuring tape. Jack up the car, measure from the center tread line on the front of the drivers side tire to the same point on the front of the passenger side tire. Write down that number. Now do the same for the same for the back of the tire. Make sure the steering wheel is perfectly centered when you do that. When you put the new rods on you adjust each side equally until you get those same measurements front and back. Get some whiteout and mark each rod right next to the lock nut. When you loosen the lock nut, try not to turn it more than a quarter turn. Just get it loose and then leave it alone. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the old rod ends. You can cut the old boots off with a razor if you want to get them out of the way. I removed the rod from the outer joint first. Then loosened and removed it from the rack. Seems easier that way to me. When you get the old ones off lay them out so you know which side they came off of. Lay the new rods right next to them, butt the inner ends against something flat. Thread the nuts onto the new rods (they should come with new ones, use those) and line those up with the nuts on the old rods, the new nuts may also be different than the old ones. Line up the outer edge of the nuts where they will contact the outer end, now mark the new rod with whiteout where the inner edge of the nut sits. This way you have a reference mark for approximately where the nut should be when it's installed. You'll have to remove the nut again to install the new boot. If you have a vice installing the boots is a breeze. Soak the rod down with silicone spray, clamp the flats on the joint end in the vise (not too tight) and pull the boot down over the threads with a good tug. If you don't have a vice you'll have to fight it on the car. You don't have to get it all the way in place just yet, but get it past the threads at least because that's the hardest part. I found it easier to install the new rod end and tighten it to the rack first. Don't forget to install the jam washer. Put the lock nut on, and thread it up to the whiteout mark, then give it another half turn for extra room. It may be a bit difficult to thread the new rod into the end joint, but bear with it, you'll get it eventually. You'll pretty much have to use a wrench to turn the new rod, unless you're super man, or have extremely strong hands... (i.e. "no girlfriend" ) Once they're threaded on take a hammer and flatten the jam washer against one of the flats on the inner end. That will keep the end from turning if it ever manages to get loose from the rack. Then spray some silicone lube on the new boots and on the steering rack and they should pop on without much too trouble. Zip tie them in place on the rack, but leave them loose on the rods for now. Adjust the rods so the tires line up with measurements you took earlier. This should get you close enough with the toe-in, but you still want to take it to a shop and have it aligned to be safe. It doesn't have to be off by much to tear up the tires quick. Once you get the tires back to, or as close as you can to, the measurements you took earlier tighten the lock nuts and zip tie or clamp the boots to the rods. As far as the clunk sound, when coming off the throttle, could the the tie rods, but it might also be a bad motor mount or transmission mount.

What he said. Did you check the voltage at the sensor to make sure it is getting 5v?

Did you replace the two wire sender or the one wire sender? Both senders are thermal resistors. Their resistance changes based on how hot they are. The ECU gets it reading from the two sire sender. It feeds the sender 5v through one wire, and reads the drop in voltage through the second wire. The one wire sender is for the gauge. It just grounds a 12v feed through the gauge, the gauge reacts to the voltage change due to the resistance in the sender.

How does that work?

When tested about a month ago, 14+ volts at idle, and the tester showed about 75 amps at 2000 rpm, and 100+ amps max output. Car has been running flawlessly since I fixed the battery terminal issue, no lights dimming, no flickering, nothing to make me think that those numbers would have changed significantly in the meantime. I am on the same page, thinking that the voltage must be too low, wondering if that full 14 volts is making it all the way to the back window, but I have to pull pretty much half the car apart to get to the wires to find out.

X2 Lower octane fuel ignites easier, and using it in a forced induction engine can lead to a symptom known as pre-ignition. This is a very good article I found about two years ago (though it was published back in 2000) that has detailed information about the differences between preignition and detonation, either of which can quickly and easily kill your forced induction engine. edit: Might help if I gave you the link to the article huh? :-P http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/

Well I found some info about how to test the voltage, but haven't tried it yet. You have to remove nearly the entire back half of the interior of the car to get access to the wires.

Follow the instructions to the T. You WILL have gasket trouble in a very short time if you don't.

Parts don't count as OEM unless they come from Subaru, and say Subaru on them. Double check that the wires are seated correctly in the coil, and that they are fully seated on the spark plugs. They can be a real Pita to get clicked on all the way. A pair of plug wire pliers is a big help on these. If they're on all the way, and you're positive that they are, switch back to the old wires and see if it changes.

Why not just email a dealer in CA and find out for sure?

I highly doubt that those were caused by the type of oil in the crank case at the time of failure. Mobil is the highest rated and most widely used brand of synthetic oil on the market. Mercedes Benz, BMW, even Chevrolet all recommend using Mobil products. (they actually have stickers under the hood that say that)

Woah... That's a big problem for sure. I hope you have a multimeter. You're gonna need it. Do you have any aftermarket equipment installed in the car? Stereo system? Fog lights? Alarm? Extra horns? Anything at all? Start looking under the hood, and behind the lower kick panel on drivers side of the dash, for evidence of mice. Chewed up bits of paper, insulation, feathers, insulation chewed off of wires. Mouse turds are a dead giveaway. This might not be as bad as it seems, but at the same time it might be more of a problem than you think.

When you get out of the car do you push yourself out by pushing on the wheel? You could be inadvertently tripping the steering lock by doing that. This happens quite often in Fords, GMs, even BMWs. The steering wheel won't turn very far without a lot of force when the engine is off due to the friction of the tires on the ground. If you play around with the wheel a bit, you'll notice that when you pull it to one side or the other and let go it will "spring" back in the opposite direction. The steering lock is a mechanical setup that is directly connected to the ignition cylinder. That "spring" force can jam the steering lock in such a way that prevents the lock pin from pulling back and releasing the wheel, when you try to turn the key. Until you give the wheel a tug in the opposite direction the spring force is being applied and relieve the pressure on the pin. Best way to avoid that is to not move the wheel once the key is out.

You might be better off to remove the converter completely, and look into the transmission around the input shaft to get an idea of what it is that you need to line up. You're looking for something similar to this. There will be notches cut in the end of the shaft of the torque converter that have to slip into the teeth in the pump before it will slide on completely. Similar to this:

Sounds like you have a short to me. :-p P0703 is brake switch B input circuit. Exactly Which lights come on in the dash when you hit the brake pedal?

That should be fine as long as the oil you normally use is also full synthetic oil.

This thread is great for reference! I'm gonna be doing similar with mine except I'm not touching the head gaskets. Pull it, clean it and reseal the whole thing otherwise. New clutch, timing kit, WP, maybe even the oil pump if I feel inclined.

If you get an OE part from a dealer then it will likely last the rest of the life of the car. If you get an after market part from some place online then it might only last a few years and be plugged.

Depending on where you get the parts from, you'll either have to replace it again in two years, or you won't have to mess with it at all for a long time, if ever again. You might notice a small improvement in fuel mileage and upper rpm power.

It's a sedan, so no hatch to worry about broken wires. I'm not entirely sure how these things work really. Is it resistance that makes them heat up? So if it's not getting enough current from the relay then it won't get as hot?