Fairtax4me

Subaru head bolts are 12 point. Some of the block bolts are too. It's not uncommon, but they generally tend to be larger size because small 12 point bolt heads are more likely to round off. Good thing is the bolts don't actually go into the head. They go into the steel retainer caps for the rocker shaft. If you snap them off the rocker shafts can be removed and disassembled so you can drill the broken bits out. Or get junkyard rocker assemblies. I'm thinking they are cross threaded or the wrong thread pitch/cheapo replacements because someone rounded the heads on the original bolts. Put what you can on them and just give them a couple quick snaps. If you need the car operable for the next day, get some rocker shafts and the correct bolts from a junkyard car and just plan on breaking all of those off. They might crack loose if you put some oomph on them. Never know.

Uhh, that or someone used vice grips last time. Maybe you should do the same.

Make sure the small wire on the starter is hooked up.

They're supposed to be 6 point bolts. Are they 12 point on yours or just really dirty/rusty? Sometimes, yeah, they get pretty stuck. It helps if you can tilt the engine up on the side you're working, and smack the head of the bolt with a hammer. I usually put a socket on the bolt to keep from deforming the hex. Use a 6 point socket. No 12 points or you'll just round it off.

I think the legacy bars are wider. But they're usually riveted together in some way. You might be able to cut them down.

The only way you could test the temperature bulb itself would be to cut the wires and check resistance of the bulb. Might not tell you anything though. The little module there gets 12v in one wire (I forget which), another is ground, the third sends 12v to the ECU and that 12v gets interrupted when the temp bulb gets below freezing. If you can get 12v and ground to the correct pins, check the third for 12v with the bulb in open air. Then stick the thing in a freezer or really cold ice water and the 12v pin should drop to 0.

Flashing CEL is based on the detection of a condition in which the vehicles emissions exceed 1.5 times the Federal Test Procedure limit for the given engine size. The most common reason for that is a cylinder misfire. A certain number of misfires have to occur within a certain time period to set a code for a misfire on a particular cylinder, and illuminate the CEL. If misfiring continues and exceeds a higher number in the same time period, that will trigger the CEL to start flashing. Codes really only give you a place to start. There is still some diagnosis that must be done to confirm the cause of the code. Misfire codes, for example, can be set for several reasons. No spark, no fuel, no compression, cut it down to the basics.

Pretty sure 96-99 Legacy Outback struts and springs will give an Impreza about 2" lift. You'll be at the limit of what the axles can handle without adding subframe spacers. If you just need about an inch lift, get King lift springs for it. Primitive racing sells them. Get KYB struts. Don't even consider anything else.

Yep, as much as it sucks to have to tear it back part, you can fix it now, or replace the whole engine later.

Yes, you have to run the gasket that matches the bore size of the block. Can't run a 97mm gasket bore on a 99.5mm block bore. It just doesn't work. The gaskets are easy to modify, especially if you have a hole punch that's the right size. Just like up the gasket on the head and mark where it needs to be drilled. Drill a couple holes in each and you're done. Pretty sure there is a writeup or two out there on how to do that.

Harness usually comes with the manifold. I think you can swap the 99 2.5 wire harness onto the 2.2 manifold if for some reason you can't get the wiring with the manifold. EGR is built into the manifold, so you need a 2.2 EGR manifold or else the CEL will stay on all the time with EGR codes. Pretty sure the 90 heads can't be drilled for EGR. I've read of a few people trying and drilling into the coolant jacket in the head. Just run a hose from the EGR valve to the intake tube and it will keep the codes away.

You either have to drill holes the gasket to match the cooling ports, or order the custom gaskets for that setup from Cometic.

Doable, but you'll need an intake manifold and engine wiring harness from a 95-98 2.2 with EGR. Automatic Transmission won't swap between those years. Manual will, with some minor changes due to cable vs hydraulic clutch. You'll also need to swap the rear differential with the trans so the final drive matches.

Your mechanic doesn't know much about subaru transmissions. After 95 they are ALL AWD. 96 was kind of an oddball year because it was the only year you could get the true Outback (raised roof, lift, bigger tires) with a manual trans and a 2.2 engine. The MT 2.2 outback used the 4.11 final drive. To match that trans you need a manual trans from any 96-98 2.5L Legacy Outback. It will have the same final drive, and it will bolt in and work just the same. The problem you likely ran into before is the mechanic installed a manual trans from a later 2.2 engine car, which would have the wrong 3.90 final drive.

Make sure the pins didn't get pushed out of the connector. Double check the fuses. Pull them all out one at a time if you have to.

AT temp light flashing means there is a fault code stored in the TCU. Did you unplug anything else besides the TPS? Possible the TPS is misadjusted. The ECU needs to get the correct voltage from the TPS with the throttle closed because that's how it knows when the throttle plate is closed. What procedure did you follow for setting the TPS?

You can but you need to put a fuse line line between the alternator and battery. Look up the Big 3 Upgrade. Need to upgrade power AND ground to get the most out of your amps.

This is not correct. The constant (yellow) is the main power for the head unit. Switched wire (red) is just to tell the unit to turn on. No different than the remote wire going to an amp. Is your radio hard wired or do you have the adapter that plugs into the factory wiring?

Those spring bolts you have to order from Subaru. I've been to every parts place around, and checked numerous online sources, none of them carry the correct bolt, and none of the local places could match the old bolt.

They're supposed to be round. Definitely want to replace those because its alot of work to have to remove the manifold again just to fix a leak around one of those o-rings.

The compressor clutch will not engage when the system is empty. The outer section of the pulley free-rides all the time when the AC is off anyway. Only when the AC or defrost is turned on does the compressor clutch engage and start driving the compressor. Unless there's a problem with the compressor pulley or the tension idler for the compressor belt, you can just leave the belt on.

Which diff fluid? Limited slip diff Friction Modifier? Yeah that'll probably fix the bind And it will ruin all the other clutches in the trans. Friction modifier is a no-no in any wet clutch based transmission.

Make a new peice out of rubber emissions hose and just attach it with two brass nipples.

Was the car wrecked in the side? Was that wheel impacted? Wheels can be bent, cracked, corroded, or something as stupid as the wrong type of wheel weights being used can create a small leak between the tire and rim. Need to have it thoroughly checked by a tire shop. If there is dirt/corrosion where the bead of the tire seals against the wheel it needs to be cleaned off. A wheel bent enough to cause a leak should be visible, but not always.

There are sensors that measure the suspension height. Possibly there is a problem with one of the height sensors. Best solution, is to get rid of the air suspension, convert it to standard coil spring struts. Its gonna break, and replacement parts are usually not available.