Fairtax4me

Yes. The lamp comes on for a few seconds as a test for the warning circuit. You should use the parking brake. Non-use can cause the brake mechanism to seize and become totally inoperable. That one should be electronic. You simply push the button to engage, pull the button to release. The indicator lamp should turn on when the brake is engaged.

Ultra grey is Aerobic. It needs oxygen in order to dry, which is why it usually takes 24 hours to cure once it's applied. Anaerobic only dries in a lack of oxygen. Any that gets squeezed out from between parts won't dry. By the stuff that is between the parts will dry and cure in about 30 minutes to an hour. http://www.autobodynow.com/products/permatex-51813-anaerobic-gasket-maker-50-ml-tubea-a-a?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=4882299585&gclid=CLbFpqvuzsgCFU6PHwodINYESg About $12 for a tube at the parts store last time I bought some, but that was a few years ago. The stuff lasts forever. Put two dabs on a sheet of foil. Put a penny over one dab, and leave the other exposed. You can even smear it all over. Leave it and come back in an hour and the exposed will still be wet, But the stuff under the penny will be cured. Leave it for a week and the exposed sealant will still be wet. Cover it up, (another penny) and where it's covered will be dry in an hour.

Scroll down to page 63. Instructions are for 05, Model but should be similar if the connector is in the same place. http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/downloads/manuals/AsianImportVCS(EAZ0025B02CRevA)

Did you check the output drum for grooves worn in the notches where the clutch plates engage? If there are grooves, the clutch plates will drag because they get jammed in the drum. If they aren't deep you can file then down and re-use the drums. Otherwise the drums need to be replaced. SP4Y has a good reputation among the Subaru community. Hope they get their stuff straightened out.

Did it go out after cycling the key off-on? Any other warning lights on? There should be a way to get airbag codes on that year, but I don't know for sure. The usual way consists of grounding a pin in a test connector under the dash, turn the key on and the light blinks the codes. Try googling, I'm sure the info is out there somewhere.

Oil pump and water pump bolts are tiny so the torque spec is very low. Something like 5-7 ft lbs. Mega black works fine, just be very careful about how much you apply on the oil pump. Too much and it will squeeze out and little bits will break off and clog the feed holes for the rocker shafts. Anaerobic sealant is better for the oil pump because any that gets squeezed out doesn't dry. If you need to start it to test, do that after the timing belt is totally installed and you've pulled the tensioner pin. Bolt the crankshaft pulley on snugly to hold the crankshaft sprocket from slipping. Since you've had the oil pump off, the oil system is dry and should be primed before you start the engine for the first time. Remove all 4 spark plugs, and disable spark and fuel by unplugging the ignition coil or igniter, and unplug the fuel injectors. Crank the engine until the oil pressure lamp turns off. Should only be about 15-20 seconds. Then put all spark plugs back, plug in fuel injectors and coil/igniter, and you can start the engine.

All the aftermarket donut gaskets are like that. Have to get it from the dealer to get one that fits properly. With the dealer donut gasket your leak will probably be fixed. The dealer gasket is like half graphite/lead so it conforms to the imperfections better than the aftermarket cheapo steel wire donuts. Lasts a lot longer too.

Brakes still work the same, just no ABS. Not really a bad thing. Just annoying to have the light on.

On older models the glove box light only works when the key is On and the headlamps/park lamps are turned on. Kinda goofy design, yours may be the same. There may be a short to ground in the illumination ciruit, or the illumination control module may be damaged. I would recommend removing the radio. There may be a separate 2 pin plug for the illumination on the back. If there is, unplug it and see if the problem goes away.

Yeah I've had that happen and you can either replace the relay with a used one, or just yank it out and put some tape on the cluster so you don't have to look at the light. Those hydraulic units don't fail often. Used is a good option and usually fairly cheap. Post in the classified here. People part out those cars often. Or Try car-part.com if you can't find one locally.

Gotcha. Didn't want to say before that it couldn't be that way, because anything is possible, but I was thinking it was either a swap or a 2.5. The phase 1 and phase 2 heads are very distinctly different. If it did in fact have the phase 2 head design in a 97, that would be an oddball engine for sure, and something I'd like to have seen/known about in case I ever run across one. The phase 2 heads do have the plug holes going through the valve cover, but the top of the valve cover is flat, rather than having the 4 big humps that the phase 1 cover has.

Finally got that wax job done yesterday. Drug the side down the top branches of a dead tree that had fallen in the road a few nights ago. Couldn't see it until I was right on top of it because the jackass in the other lane going the other way wouldn't turn off his damn high beams. Left a bunch of scuffs down the whole length of the side of the car. They buffed out for the most part, but it left a slight crease in the front fender and another in the rear bumper. If this car wasn't already in rough shape I would have been really, really mad. Partly fixed the sloppy shifter. Still not as tight as It should be. I need to replace the lower pivot bushing, and probably the sleeves that go through the blue bushings on the shifter rod. And it needs the front stay bushing, which is really expensive, so I'll probably just wrap it with some tape for a while.

Subaru recommends all 4 tires measure within 1/4" circumference or the AWD transfer clutch can be damaged. If your least worn tire has a circumference of 82.25", your most worn tire should have a circumference no less than 82.0".

Tires can cause a pull if they're worn unevenly. More wear on one edge will cause the tire to have a cone shape, and will pull in the direction of the small end of the cone. Right side: More wear on the inner edge will cause a pull to the left. Wear on the other edge will pull to the right. Left side: inner edge, will pull right Outer edge, pull left Enough wear to cause a pull should be visible, or at least measurable with a tread depth guage. Normally edges worn on only one side (inner or outer) will indicate an alignment problem. It may suggest that the alignment shop didn't do a thorough shakedown of the front end before checking the alignment. I just serviced a car on Friday that had obvious play and ripped dust boots on both lower ball joints. The customer had just had an alignment done that morning before bringing the car to us for service and a state inspection. He wasn't too happy when I showed him what they missed. Do a good shakedown of the front end. Ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings. Check the rear bushings on the arms for grease leaking from them. If the grease is leaking out they're bad and need to be replaced, and could be causing a pull, and tire wear. Also try rotating the tires as John suggested. Swap the fronts left<->right and see if it now pulls the opposite way.

Kinda fits the description doesn't it? Rolls forward in Nuetral. Worthy of consideration at least. If this were an electrical problem the AT temp light should be flashing, assuming the bulb works. Does the AT temp bulb turn on with all the others when the key is turned?

Knock sensor 101 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116520-knock-sensor-101-and-replacement/ P0328 Knock sensor High input. Most likely to be the sensor itself or a poor ground for the sensor. The sensor grounds to the block, so make sure the mounting spot on the block is clean of dirt and corrosion. If you have a multimeter you can check voltage at the sensor wire by back probing the connector. Voltage higher than 2.5v means there is poor continuity through the sensor or a bad ground.

Could be as simple as a misadjusted shift cable. If the cable adjustment is too tight the trans will drop into 3rd when the selector is placed in Drive.

Nice looking SUS! Don't see those very often here. Apparently they sold more of those in the northeast than the entire rest of the country.

Double post

Orangey-brownish plug on the left is the CTS for the ECU. On the right, brownish plug by the oil pressure plug, is crank sensor. Fuel injector plugs you'll need to look at a wire diagram for that year and see which color wire goes to which injector. Power wire is common. The ground side goes to the ECU so ground wires will be different color for each injector. Also, I'm thinking now that the light grey plug on the left with the shorter lead is for the IAC since that should be close to the TPS on the 98 engine. The darker grey plug with the longer lead is probably for the ignition coil which is normally mounted top center of the manifold.

Starting at the top. Greyish plug: cam sensor Two grey plugs: fuel injectors 2&4 Greyish plug, 3 pins: ignition coil or IAC maybe White plug, 2 pins, single wire: knock sensor Black plug: Throttle sensor Small light grey plug, 3 pin: ignition coil or IAC Orange plug: Coolant temp sensor for ECU Single spade next to it: temp sensor for guage Blue plug: Evap purge solenoid (under number 3 runner) Brown plug: crank sensor Single wire black spade connector: oil pressure switch Two grey plugs at bottom: injectors 1&3 Open eyelet: ECU ground, goes on top of the manifold. There will probably need to be some lengthening done to get the IAC plugged in.

You need to replace the tensioner piston. It's damaged internally, and isn't holding pressure against the belt correctly. Solenoid is the evap purge control solenoid. Should have been hooked up. There shuld be a metal tube under the manifold that runs from just below the fuel lines and comes out under the manifold sticking out toward the right front corner of the engine bay. That's the evap line from the tank. Should have a line going from the tube to the round charcoal canister mounted on the frame rail. Then another line from the canister to the solenoid. Then a line from the solenoid to a nipple on the manifold either on the back of the number 3 runner, or to the top of the throttle body. Power loss could be fuel pressure dropping off, clogged cat maybe, or could be because timing keeps skipping.

Got a picture of it?

97-98 ej22 are interference and the plugs do not go through the valve cover. They use the same single port heads as 96 but the piston design in 97 changed which makes it an interference engine. 97-98 heads will have solid lash adjusters on the rocker arms. 96 heads have hydraulic adjusters. Easy way to tell if its a 96 or 97 engine.

How was it determined that the head gaskets are blown? Did the engine overheat? How many times? $2500 is about right if you're in CA. Including machine work and all parts. The big question is whether the engine bearings are damaged because it was overheated. If the bearings are damaged, you might only get a couple months out of the engine before it starts knocking and puts a rod through the block.