Fairtax4me

Unless you find a shop that specializes in Subaru, most shops won't take the tail housing off to replace the transfer clutch parts. But if you can pull an engine and reseal it, you can replace the transfer clutch drum yourself. Try the drain and fill first. Make sure all 4 tires are the same model, size, and treadwear. No more than 1/4" difference in circumference allowable between the tire with the most tread and the one with the least.

If it fires, you have spark.

If it has the oil cooler, the o-ring above the cooler is probably leaking. 22mm socket I think for the post in the center then the cooler should be able to pull down enough for you to wipe everything dry and put the new o-ring in. Get the o-ring from a dealer.

There should be no play in the bearings on these cars. If you have the assembly out and can feel any roughness when you spin the bearing by hand, the bearing is bad. The ball type bearings may have some movement when the axle nut is not installed. But the bearing should still spin smoothly.

Get a universal terminal from an auto parts store. Cut the insulation back about 1/2" and clamp the new terminal on the end of the wire.

Oh, you meant the pulley. Yeah if it holds fuel pressure when you pinch the return line that rules out o-rings, injectors, etc. The FPR does seem to be leaking though it may just be due to buildup on the valve. They're kind of a pain to replace because the screws on them are tiny and the heads strip all the time.

What makes you think its toast? Its a non-interference enfine. Re-time it and it see how it runs.

You need to post in the Old gen section for better help from the guys that know the EA series engines. Have you checked it for spark when it won't start? Was any work done just prior to this problem occurring?

Can you post pics of the plugs that came out of it? I'm thinking oil fouling. More severe in the front two cylinders. Idle could be a separate problem (dirty IAC, clogged PCV valve, vacuum leak) Run it for a while and pull the plugs again.

There should be no play in the bearings on these. Loose bearing is a bad bearing. Make sure your play isn't because of ball joints or tie rod ends. If the play is definitely in the bearings, make sure the axle nuts are tight. If the axle nut gets loose the bearings will be damaged.

I didn't know that outer ring was that flimsy. Anyway, yeah you're 180 out on the drivers side. That's going to throw off fuel and spark timing along with the stroke timing for those two cylinders. In lieu of the notch there's a way you can time the passenger cam properly using that arrow. Basically you have to use a compass or something that will show you a 45° angle from the centerline of the camshafts. Line up the arrow as close to 45° (1:30) as you can. Do the same on the other side as well since you don't have the cover. Once the belt is on, spin the crankshaft around 1-3/4 turns until all three arrows are pointing straight up. It's pretty easy to tell if one side or the other isn't pointed straight up, if that's the case it's off by a tooth or so. Make a note of which way it's off, turn the crank 90° so the timing notch lines up, remove the belt and reset on the sprocket, then repeat the check.

Yeah, If its wet there may not be any fluid in it! It'll definitely make noise then! Of course if that's the case it will need to be replaced because a hypoid gear set will destroy itself in no time if its doesn't have any oil on it.

Check it for an intake leak or leaking fuel injector o-rings. Something is making it too rich. Though It seems odd that its front half vs rear half instead of left/right. Were the deposits on the rear plugs kind of a crusty ash? Could be oil fouling due to worn rings. Compression check may be in order.

Could be the rear diff if they drove it around for a long time with it binding. Drain the fluid and see how it looks. Even though the rear diff is turning all the time, when the FWD fuse is in there's no load on it, so it may not make any noise.

Work synchros won't be terribly obvious. That's something you'll feel while shifting, but won't be visible when looking at them without disassembling the shaft and removing the synchro rings. If you're gonna pull it apart check the mainshaft bearing for play. Worn mainshaft bearing will allow the mainshaft to walk forward/back and can cause difficultly shifting into 4th. It will eventually cause it to start popping out of 4th and 5th.

Plenty of things can cause vibration that changes pitch with speed. A driveshaft wouldn't be first on my list. It happens, but is very uncommon. Wheel bearings are the most likely.

If its backfiring the timing is wrong. Timing notch on the crank sprocket is on the back edge. Should line up with the notch in the housing the crank sensor sits in. Keyway should be at 6 o'clock. Cam notches line up with the vertical seam in the head. Arrows on the cam sprockets will point at 1:30 when the notch is in the right spot.

There's only one way to make the 93 2.2 work in that car. That's to bolt the 2.5 heads on the 2.2 block. You have to use the 2.5 manifold and electronics.The idle control and ignition control are totally different and there's no way to rig them to work. You can use a 99-01 2.2 from an Impreza or a 2000-01 2.2 from a Legacy. Either of those will bolt right in with the exception of having to swap the crankshaft and drivers side camshaft sprockets.

I've been running eBay made in China cheapies on both of mine with no problems. Unisia Jecs is OE brand. Rockauto has Bosch I think for a decent price that should work well if you're more comfortable with a name-brand.

Somebody probably wailed the bolts on with an air ratchet not knowing or not caring about the torque spec for those which is only like 8 ft lbs. I've noticed people used to working on Iron blocks tend to do that. Helicoil would probably be the simplest/ fastest thing to do. Another option is to drill out and tap threads for the next larger size, but then you also have to drill out the holes in the water pump larger.

Yes it does. Look up my knock sensor 101 thread. Has all you need to know.

Dealer should have it. If you remove the old one Napa might be able to match it up.

Vibration could be a seized u-joint. Pull the driveshaft out entirely and see if the joints move easily. Not sure about the crud in the fluid. There aren't really any gaskets in the trans. The transfer and extension housings have paper gaskets between them. The main case seam is sealed with RTV. Maybe some previous owner put some dirty fluid in it? Goop on the drain plug magnet is normal.

Or it could be fuel pressure... How far back did I say that... ? :cattle prod:

With all the injectors and the MAF unplugged the only codes you need to worry about are the TPS and the knock sensor code. Knock sensor won't keep it from starting but a TPS code might if it thinks you're holding the throttle open. Check voltage on the center pin of the TPS with the key On. You have to do this with it plugged in. Use a paper clip to back probe the connector. Should only have 0.45-0.55v on the center pin.