Fairtax4me

What year and model is your car? If it was causing problems they probably drained about 3-4 litres of fluid out of the transmission pan. Unfortunately, there's no way to know for sure how much damage was done. My biggest concerns for now would be: 1. Did they use the correct fluid to fill the trans? There isn't any way to really know this. There are so many different transmission fluids out there, and they all react differently in different transmissions. Most of those quick lube places carry a generic trans fluid that works in a wide range of different transmissions used in older vehicles. If you have a new vehicle (less than 3-4 years old) the wrong fluid may cause more problems. 2. Did they mistakenly put ATF in the front differential before finding the dipstick for the transmission? This is another common mistake that the quick lube places make. ATF is bad for the front differential and will ruin it in a very short time.

eBay usually has kits with Contacts and the solenoid core together. You may need to check which ones you have before ordering because the sizes/shapes differ. There's also Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007FR1FT6/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BKJF7B68C01P8N3T0DM

Your click is the solenoid engaging, but the contacts are so worn they can't carry enough current for the starter motor to start turning. Remove the starter and take the back cover off the solenoid and have a look at the contacts. You might be able to clean them up well enough to get you through the week until you get the new ones.

Kinda sounding like starter contacts. Need to listen for a click from under the hood next time. Maybe drive it around the block a few dozen times to heat it up and park it in the driveway and see if the problem recurrs immediately after parking, then again after 15-20 minutes sitting for a "heat soak".

Gross!!

Yeah the 25d is kinda tricky. With the right combination of tools it can be done with the motor mounts still attached, but it will make the job a whole lot easier to loosen the lower mounts and jack the engine up. Once it's jacked up stick a wood block between the mount and the crossmember so the engine can't fall if the jack slips.

Same reason why kicking a mule works... sometimes... Just coincidence I'm guessing. As far as I know the same switch is used for brake lamps, shift lock, and signaling the ECM to allow starting. I assume the 05 requires the brake pedal to be pressed to start, but don't know for sure. Maybe the shock jarred a relay into submission?

Security system? Tried locking and unlocking the doors with the key fob? Move the shifter from park all the way through the range a dozen times or so to wipe the contacts in the Nuetral switch.

Idle is supposed to jump up about 150-200 rpm when the AC is on. If idle doesn't increase the idle control valve could be dirty/sticky. Usually a cleaning and a new gasket will take care of that. If it has electronic throttle you may need to clean the throttle body. Also check over all of the PCV/Breather hoses and vacuum hoses that attach to the intake manifold, intercooler, and intake tubing. Make sure none are cracked/ loose.

Asking for leaks by reusing that old tube seal. The old ones look wider because they've been squished flat under the valve cover for 13 years. The new ones will flatten out the same way once the cover is installed.

Generally if theyre too loose they bounce around and make a clicking/rattling sound over some bumps. The pads will always drag against the rotor a little bit no matter what you do. But just the pads own weight resting against the rotor will not cause it to wear any noticable amount. You're probably just hearing the pads scraping away at some surface rust on the rotor. It only takes a few days of humid weather for the rotors to rust on the braking surface.

Did you apply grease to the outside of the boot at the bottom? The boot has to slide around when you turn. If there is no grease on the bottom it sticks to the control arm and can rip. Should be able to pull the boot up with a small screwdriver or pick and wipe some grease under it. You could also try poking a small hole at the bottom so air can get out.

I did a van week before last that had split the trans cooler in the radiator and the cooling system was full of ATF. Flushed it with Purple Power. Flush the whole system (including the heater core) very thoroughly with water before refilling with coolant.

One of my tricks if I drop a screw and can't find it is to drop another one in the same place and watch it fall. Usually it ends up somewhere near the first one. I find stuff all the time while working on peoples cars. Oil and radiator caps, screwdrivers, wrenches, nuts, bolts, plastic fastener clips. Found a needle probe for a voltmeter still stuck to an alternator wire (looked like it had been there for years). The oddest was a spent shotgun round sitting under the intake manifold of a truck I worked on. I guess the guy saw a deer while he was working on his truck or something?!?

There should be a smal black button somewhere under the dash that has to be pushed while turning the key to On. Usually its just hanging under the the dash, but sometimes it's mounted near the hood release. I've seen a few that the red indicator for the alarm system is the button and pushing that does the same thing. If no button, Try disconnecting the battery -, turn the key to the On position, then reconnect the battery.

No. The 99-01(I think) have an issue with a sealer of some kind getting on the sensor element and causing it to read incorrectly. This seems to apply only to models with the phase 2 style MAF. The older square top MAFs have the solder joint problem.

Did it fix the clunk? Did you check the other mounts for loose bolts?

Generally just replacing the plug will fix the problem. Agree with John, if your headlamp lenses are not crystal clear your light output will be very poor. Turtle wax sells a $10 with a lens sealer that seems to work very well. Its a bit of work because the polishing is done by hand, but gives very good results if you're patient and follow the process exactly. Upgrading the wiring isn't difficult, but isn't really necessary unless you have a large drop in voltage reaching the lamp, or have high voltage on the ground side when the lamp is on. If you have 13v on the supply side, but have 1.5v on the ground side, you effectively only have 11.5V working voltage at the bulb. Buy the wire and some weatherproof heat shrink crimp connectors. Two 4 pin relays, and two 20 amp fuse holders. The easiest way to make this work is to change the lamps from a switched ground to a switched power circuit.

Awesome!

Only thing I can think of that might rub against it is the hose for the clutch slave cylinder. There's usually plenty of empty space around that bracket though. If you can't see just reach your hand in there and see if anything is touching the bolt. If there's nothing around it, nothing to worry about.

Agreed. Those mid 90s years are having problems with the MAF sensors. A solder joint inside breaks and you get intermittent stalling and rough running. Wiggle the wires around on the MAF sensor with the engine running and see if it stalls.

Compressor clutch has to be engaged for the pulley to drive the compressor. If the AC is off the outer pulley should spin easily. Normally you should be able to rotate the center hub of the compressor (that part with the three straps on the front) by hand easily. If the hub can't be turned by hand, then yes, compressor is locked up. You can leave that belt off entirely and it won't affect anything. Do check the lower idler pulley. Much more likely for that to seize, and it's a lot cheaper than a compressor.

Yep, that would cause that. That's just metal fatigue from the caliper applying pressure to only the one side of the rotor on a constant basis. Year ago I saw a set of solid rotors that the pads had worn out on. The person kept driving anyway. Pads wore all the way down to metal on metal, still driving. Metal worn down and the piston popped out of the caliper and got hung up cocked sideways against the rotor, still kept driving. Finally the rotor wore through in the center and broke away from the hub. They rode around for another couple months until the front pads had worn out, and they finally brought it in because the brakes were making "a little noise".

Is it a grinding noise? Whining? Rumble, grumble? Clicking? Can you get a video of the noise it makes and post it here?

99s had a TSB about the MAF sensor. If it has a MAF you can try cleaning it. A scanner that reads live data can be used to check the MAF flow rate to determine if its reading too high.