Fairtax4me

Overheating to the point the engine shuts off is pretty much writing the death certificate. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in? If its clean(little or no rust), suspension, brakes, exhaust system all in decent shape, pop a used engine in it. Replace all the timing parts, and the oil seals on the front of the engine. Reseal the separator plate and put some valve over gaskets on it and it should be good to go.

On some vehicles there is a option to mute the radio/audio while warnings or voice directions are being given. Anything like that in the settings menus?

Year model engine?

There's a whole gigantic list of things that can set a p0420 code. Everything from a vacuum leak, to an exhaust leak, to a dirty air filter, or poor ground connections. First things first. Make sure the basics are in good shape. Plugs, wires, filters, Subaru PCV valve. Check all the vacuum and breather hoses for proper connection. After that go after O2 sensors.

The hydraulic tensioner is damaged and is why it keeps skipping time. The seals inside are damaged when people compress them too quickly. New tensioner piston and it should be fine. The guide plate is unnecessary. None of my ej22s have ever had them, including my two current MT cars. Connect the vacuum hoses the way they should be for the 18 engine. It should say how on the diagram on the bottom of the hood, if the hood is original.

There's still air in the system. There should be a bleed screw on the top corner of the radiator opposite the cap. Remove that and slowly add coolant until it starts coming out of the opening. Then put the screw back, and top off if necessary. Fill the overflow bottle to the max/full mark. If there's no screw, pop the upper hose loose from theradiator and pour coolant straight into the block through the hose. When its full up, put the hose back and top of the radiator. Cap the radiator, idle the engine until the radiator fans cycle on and back off. Then turn off the engine and let it cool for about an hour. Recheck coolant level after the engine has cooled.

There are about 6 bulbs in the instrument panel IIRC. Possible they've all burned out over the years and the last is getting ready to go as well?

Are you finding water in the fluid? If you're still finding water in the trans fluid there could be a crack in the ATF cooler in the radiator as Texan suggested. All the fluid in the converter gets flushed through within a few minutes, so it will fill within about 30 seconds after starting. Then the fluid level in the trans has to be checked again after moving through all gears.

Wire issue of some sort. Poor ground, loose terminal in the TCU connector maybe. Or the circuit in the TCU is wonky. IIRC The fuse just grounds a control/logic circuit for the TCU. The TCU then turns on the FWD lamp circuit, and disables the Duty C driver circuit. If the fuse circuit isn't completed for some reason (such as those above) the duty C won't be disabled, and the lamp won't come on.

Kinda doubt it. The legacy has about 4" longer wheelbase, so has more room for the 16 gallon tank.

So you put the fuse in years ago, but the FWD light has only now turned on?

As the clutch wears the release point moves higher Somebody probably adjusted it close to the floor because they liked it that way. Clutch release lever sticks out the top of the trans on the drivers side. Clutch cable is on top. Should be a 12mm adjusting nut and a 10mm lock nut. Adjust free play of the release lever to about 1/4". It should have a hill holder which is the smaller cable beneath the clutch cable. After adjusting the clutch cable, adjust the holder cable until it just barely starts to pull the lever on the holder mechanism.

New axles, most are made in China, and of inferior quality. Kind of a crap-shoot. Often cause more problems than they solve. FWE rebuilds Subaru axles and they're good, but a bit pricey. Used OE axles are inexpensive. Buy a set of boots and reboot them before installing and they'll last for years.

No doubt there's a way to do it with a Subaru select monitor, but finding someone willing to hook up the scanner and dig around in the settings will be tricky. Simple fix... Buy a spare seatbelt buckle and pop it in the latch when you go get the mail. Keep it in the center console. You could get a bit more complicated and wire in a resistor so the computer thinks the buckle is latched all the time. This would probably require removing the seat to get to the wiring for the latch. And some knowledge or experience with wiring repairs.

If the axle is clicking its likely beyond the point of rebootability. (Is that a word? It is now!) Get a used one. Usually $40-50 from places on car-part.com. 700 Highway miles, high speed, a half quart of oil loss is entirely possible, especially if you're overdue for a change.

Yes they're "fixed" spacing, but the bearing races are not as tough as you think. They don't "crush", but they are distorted by torqueing the axle nut. A certain amount of that flex is planned for in order to set the preload on the bearing. Too much flex overloads the bearing. Bearings need to be torqued to spec with the wheel off to avoid damage. Antiseize shouldn't cause an issue unless you're getting a LOT of it inside the bearing.

No difference in the struts or the springs. They'll bolt in and fit perfect.

Torque spec is very important on these bearings. Over tightening will overheat the bearing. Under tightening doesn't put enough pre-load on the bearing and causes uneven weight distribution on the rollers.

OP said he was losing fluid, it had to go somewhere. I see MCs leak out the back all the time on American cars. Not common on these, but it can happen, and only takes a few seconds to check.

From what I understand the carb cats are supposed to operate at a higher temperature than non-carb. Because of the way the feedback system works on the carb models, a non-carb cat may not actually reach proper operating temp, which will reduce its efficiency, and will probably set a P0420 code. Going the other way, carb cat on a non-carb car, may cause the cat to run too hot and cause it to melt down.

The one on my 95 broke there. I welded it back together myself. A good exhaust shop should be able to weld that no problem.

Loosen the two bolts on the master cylinder and pull it out a bit from the booster housing and see if fluid pours out. If it does, you have your answer.

Did you try to spin the wheel and compare it to the other side? Was the caliper clamped tight on the rotor when trying to remove it? After removing the caliper, can you freely spin the rotor?

Really don't need to drop the exhaust to do this. That's just a lot of extra work. Remove the bolts on the heat sheild and side it out of the way, then you can remove the bolts for the carrier bearing holder and just slide the driveshaft shaft toward the rear of the car and there is enough room to drop the carrier down between the exhaust pipe and the tunnel above. Keep in mind, the exhaust is moveable (its on rubber hangers), so if there isn't quite enough space you can just shove it or use a pry-bar to pull the pipe off the the side enough to get the carrier out.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4981866&cc=1418172&jnid=390&jpid=0 Point out which section is broken.