eVIL_NTT

The axels are new, and the bearings have been replaced recently. Those are the things I thought would cause the problems I have stated, but the problems were still present after the new parts install. Grrrrr.... I still am stumped.

First it wasn't really a break in the cable as it was bunching up so it wouldn't release. I am getting an awful metal crunch noise from the front when I turn (and sometimes while driving straight), and a shudder in the steering wheel. I have noticed more squeak = less shudder, more shudder = less squeak. I have been stumped by this problem, and it was suggested that the bad cable may have damaged the calipers and that was causing the squeak/shudder. I am open to more suggestions on what may be causing those issues, I'd like to get this taken care off.

I had the same problem on my stock EA81 wagon, turns out the plastic canister in the back had a broken nipple. I got another one but as my car is an odd year I had to retrofit a bigger line size canister. Kinda annoying but not difficult.

The cable in my EA81 wagon died on me before I knew it was going out, and it looks like it might have killed my calipers. I have since disconnected the front cables, I am wondering are there ones for the rear? I would like to get all the parts I need before I do the big tear down on the braking system.

I have a wooden block for those occasions, thanks for the info!

So I am getting a squeeky, sometimes crunchy sound coming from my front right wheel and my back left wheel, accompanied by shudder in the steering wheel. When the noise is louder, there is less shudder, and as the noise lessens the sudder increases. My parking brake cable had some major dissengaging problems so I stopped using it a while back, now I wonder if it is giving me issues again. If I disconnect the cable from the brakes, will my braking system still function? I need to still drive the car until I find replacement cables.

Does anyone have a recomendation on a good place online to buy sealed bearings for the front hubs? The places that are local to me want way too much for them.

Well its the "new" 2010 catalog, I haven't looked at one in even longer than you. I would imagine the trade off is just price as silicon is pretty durable, but I haven't used them before so it's just a guess.

I found this under the heading for boot kit: "Some models may experience overheating of inner boot leading to premature failure. This is mainly due to exhaust system modifications. To solve this problem, use EMPI boot 86-2298-D, which is made of heat resistant silicon material."

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks again!

After a bit of inspection of the fuel pump and some "magic" (read: wiggled connecters) it started right up. I cleaned the connecters and I hope that will be the end of any fuel problems. I am wondering though, if the control unit is going out, will I have an on-again off-again fuel issue as it continues to fail?

The basic fuel pump stuff, nice to know where the control unit is though. I love working on the car actually, it has taught me most of what I know about vehicle repair.

Thanks GD, you tha man!

I was coming back from a gorcery run and the car (EA81 '82 GL wagon) died on me much like running out of gas with less sputter. I tried to restart it a few times, but it would stay running only a few seconds then die. I had a friend listen while I tried to start it and he said he couldn't hear any fuel pump sounds. Is there another way to check if it is operational? Any advice or things to look for when installing the new pump?

Well, it looked like the old axel and it slid right on and fit with no problems. It is a new unit not reman, I will have to check to see if the part number has an application description.

I have a '82 4WD GL wagon and I just replaced the right side front axel with a new unit, and it has sheered two locking pins in pieces when moderate torqure is applied. What could be causing this? The old axel had an outer boot rip from a bad steering rack (since replaced) but wasn't eating pins before I removed it.

I know you. Welcome!

I think there may be an evap tank back there to check as well. I had the same gas fume smell and that was the culprit.

The only thing I can think of is your hub assembly.

There is an XT in the movie Big.

I had a Nissan key that would open and start my Subaru, and my Subaru key would open the Nissan but not start it. The Galant key also opens the Subaru but won't start it, I haven't tried any other keys in the Galant. I have been toying around with the idea of removing the ignition in the Subaru completely and just using a push button or something similar.

I used some generic clear silicon on my '82 windsheild corners over five years ago and still no leaks. Just follow the directions for curing and you will be good.

Those are good starting points to check out, as soon as I can find my multi meter that is. Thanks for the help!

I recently replaced the altenator in my '82 wagon, and I am getting odd behavior from the dash volt gauge. It will jump between 14.4 and 12. Sometimes it will stay at 12 volts and slowly drop down to 10ish, but I don't notice anything different in the car (no loss of power, lights do not dim.) I haven't found my volt meter yet, but I was wondering if there is anything else in the electrical system that would cause this to happen if it failed?

Being that I own a Galant VR4 I will say the Subaru can take much more of a beating and still drive, and it's easier to work on. The Galant is reliable as long as you do scheduled matinence/tune ups, but not every repair goes smoothly during remove/install. Still a fun car and worth the minor curse word here or there.