WagonsOnly

You might want to check out the Ford Festiva/Mazda 121 owner clubs/boards for more info. If I find the link I'll post it. They had approximately the same dimensions inside, so I'd assume similar size speakers would give similar results.

GL-10 seats are all-velour and have the height adjust lumbar control and adjustable headrests. RX seats are somewhat firmer and they have vinyl inserts on the side bolsters--they look good but aren't too comfortable (IMHO) and don't wear well. (They crack in colder climates.) GL and Loyale seats are just about the same, velour with vinyl backs. DL seats have more vinyl and skimpy cloth inserts, and no adjustments except for reach. (Although I like the seat fabric on DLs best.)

The idiot I bought my Forester from just slapped the sticker on--with the CEL light on! And this is at a DEALER! The car went back the next day, 02 sensor was replaced, now needs changing again...arrrgh... But I got an '83 VW Rabbit through no problem. No reverse lights, holes in the floor you can stick your fist through, and now no brakes CT is bringing back emissions, finally, with a 2-year phase-in. Unfortunately it's private run connected to a state computer with video cameras at every location.

So far I've had good luck with Ty Subaru, now Rally Subaru, Windsor Locks, CT. Their phone number is 860-64-1600. They'll order anything, and if they have parts on the shelf no one is going to need for the forseeable future they'll cut a great deal. However the dealership changed hands last week--the people in the parts dept. are still the same but I don't know about policy. The same goes for Bertera Subaru in West Springfield, MA--but I no longer buy from them after having a rotten experience buying a car there. I only go for 360 parts when absolutely necessary.

Yes, unless someone gold-plated it Some yards I've been to have had "Royale" wagons and sedans in their inventory listing. But so far as I know it's just a misspelling of Loyale.

Looks sharp--did you do up those panels yourself? I'm impressed.

Paul, my email isn't working. I can receive but not send. If you and Boz both make the PB meet--can you grab the H-pattern rims and bring them back to CT with you? If you leave them in the D/R wagon I'll pick them up then. We'll try and be down before Friday to pick everything up. Thanks, Andrew

Some people on the board have replaced their EA81 seats with XT or EA82 GL/GL-10 seats with good results. You have to install the EA82 seat rails, though, and install spacers (EA82 rails are narrower). Check the archive for details. A set of front seats from a GL shouldn't cost more than $40 from a yard. GL10 seats also have adjustable headrests and height controls.

And avoid the Stage I 2.5L 4 at all costs. The Stage II is the one without (or at least with fewer) head gasket issues. I think Outbacks and Legacies MY99 and up had the Stage II. I know the Foresters did. Welcome to the board and good luck!

I know they came with hubcaps, I was just surprised the previous owner (a) hadn't upgraded to alloys and/or ( kept the hubcaps.

Congrats. I think you did really well. You said hubcaps though--not Subaru stock alloys?

There's nothing wrong with it, the worst that can happen is you'll get a funny look and a nasty reply. You can tell a GL from a DL (EA82 series) by looking at the headlights, the GLs and GL10s have the single headlights and the DLs have the quad setup. For EA81s, the DLs had round lights and the GLs still had quads, or single square lights (from '80-81). There is practically no difference between a Loyale and a GL or GL-10. The only way to tell is to look at the back. And all GL-10s had sunroofs, but sunroofs were optional on the GL and Loyale...so if you see a roof it's probably but not certainly on a GL10. Sorry if that was a little long-winded--it's actually quite basic and I expect someone will mention the GLF and STD and other variations within a couple minutes.

There was no Gen 1 hatchback, in fact there wasn't a single Subaru with a glassback (not counting wagons and the Sambar) until 1980. Fast-forward to 1987-89 and we have four models for sale at once...but that's something else entirely. (3- and 5-door Justys, 3-door Coupe, and hatchback, all at the same time.)

Could be worse. West Springfield, MA has an unmarked Hyundai Elantra:lol:

Here's a link to all the color codes known to man: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/specyears.html And on this site too. The color code for the '80 Brat is indeed 63, by manufacturer. Du Pont equivalents are not listed.

I'm pretty sure the coupes in '83-84 were only 2WD. But not certain, please correct me if I'm wrong. If you can buy it and hold it...and give me a little while to pick it up/pay you for it... I would love one for my collection. I missed the one out here and I've been kicking myself for it since. At any rate check it out and let us know what kind of shape it's in.

Precisely why the Pacer did better than the Pinto, Edsel, Yugo, Gremlin...you could get one with a center console.

Next time look into a Subaru with a stick. I know that the clutch problems might put you off, but they appear to have been fixed--and Subaru was never known for its great auto trannies anyway.

Subaru used to offer the Rusty Jones system through the dealer network, as an option. (What a ripoff!) My GL10 has it, and the front fenders and rear quarters are almost completely gone... The newer Legacies/OBs are almost all galvanized steel (65% according to the factory lit), so there should be minimal rusting on newer models. Time will tell.

Welcome to the board, and back to Soobs. Subaru finally has the clutch problem fixed, as of 2003. My MY99 Forester has a bit of a judder problem, but only when the tranny is cold. Subaru also has a goodwill program to fix broken clutches, but it's very seldom used...If I were you I'd buy either a new (or used '03) Subaru, or wait another couple years...or buy a Gen 1 Legacy. The RS is basically a short-wheelbase Legacy. Same engine, same tranny, different suspension. The WRX is a rally wannabe with a turbo and sport suspension, and that ridiculous rear wing. The STi is as close as you can get to a street-legal rally car Stateside, but it's not a daily driver unless you live outside the Snowbelt or you want to get snow tires on high-performace rims (or buy a beater for the winter months). Several car magazines, however, have compared the STi to an M3 or similar detuned 3-series...and the STi has emerged either a close second or a close first. The WRX has also been Consumer Reports' "most fun to drive" for the past 2 years. I really don't think you can go wrong with a Soob; my only advice is to stay away from used Outbacks and new Outback Sports, and anything pre-MY03 with a manual shift.

With 178K on the clock, the CEL is probably indicating an O2 sensor problem. Pull the code first, if it's the 02 sensor it's an easy (and relatively inexpensive) fix. As for the indicator switch, you should be able to replace the whole switch for less than $10 for a junkyard part. Try squirting some WD40 in the existing switch first (take the rubber nub off, blast it with contact cleaner and then WD40) and see if that does the trick. Do NOT use graphite. Good luck, and congrats on your purchase!

He tried importing the new Yugo Koral (based on the old GV, which in turn was based on the '70s-era Fiat 128) and the all-new Florida. The "Z" comes from the parent company, Zastava Yugo Ltd. of Serbia and the new subdivision, Zastava Motor Works of the United States. I don't know if he ever got the new cars to pass the Federal safety standards, but I'm sure if there's some way he can get them in here he will. The Yugo name, incidentally, will not be used in the United States. I guess it still has the same connotation as "Pinto" or "Pacer".

Featuring a fine-quality hood ornament. Yeah, it's junk. I'm not sorry they aren't importing those here.

AKIRA: Malcolm Bricklin went from importing Fuji Rabbit scooters (unsafe) to Subaru 360s (deathtraps) to the SV-1 (supposedly safe) to the YUGO (definitely safe unless, by some freak of nature, you got it started). The Bricklin even locked you inside the car if the battery died! (Power gullwing doors and power windows were NOT a good combination.)

I'm rather fond of Mica Red Pearl, but it scratches badly. Perhaps something like Harvest Beige or Cream Yellow would hide scratches while showing mud...if you're going for a not-so-subtle off-roader look. I think Mild Yellow, WR Blue and Sonic Yellow are probably the most, er, provocative colors Subaru has come out with, and the olivey-grey stuff on the new Legacies the most boring (aren't most Camrys that color beige?)