Ricearu

slap a set of 2.2 heads, cometic conversion gaskets, and intake onto it and frankie that beast!

His battery alone should have started the marquis all alone. It was already weak. Just because it is a v8 doesn't mean a whole lot. I have started a ford 5.0 v8 (mustang) with a 385 cca honda battery (the funny slim one meant for civics). His battery was dead, you just drove the final few nails into the coffin. If you value the friendship, buy him pizza and beer. If he is being a b!t@h about it and you aren't good friends, tell him to bugger off.

i used lexol to bring back my seats. and every month since. hose them down with the conditioner, not the cleaner. I use my hands to rub it around and work the leather. It contains no petroleum so it won't hurt your hands. It leaves your hands soft as hell afterwards lol. let it soak in and do a few treatments with a microfiber buff at the end of the last treatment

I dunno but we "raced" up a slight incline where I would think she had the disadvantage based on curb weight. There was no traffic and we both exited the cloverleaf at the same time and she walked me like a puppy to 75mph, which she went from behind me to about 3 car lenghts up. Once again, empty 4 lane road. no turn ins for 2 miles. I have a single port ej22 with 155k, she has a single port ej22 block with dual port heads and fresh headgaskets and living room head rework. nothing more. Maybe I need to seafoam the coupe! and i was going slow enough that i was able to get second gear and not get trapped in third in that dead zone around 55-60

use a 2.5 ecu. they rev limit at 6500. My wife's legacy lsi with 2.2 swap HATES anything above 6000 but will go all the way to 6500. Also, her swapped 2.2 legacy with leather and 4 doors whoops the pants off my 2.2 impreza base coupe. Both are auto.

pull the negative cable. I have done it a million times. The books say don't but I have never had a problem. test with a mulitmeter goes as follows check open circuit voltage on the battery (key off engine off) full charge is 12.6v at rest start engine should be 13.6v-14.6v charging voltage. If you pick up a used FLUKE multimeter from a pawnshop (about $30) you can do an amp test in line of the negative cable with key off engine off to see if you have a parasitic drain. This can kill your battery overnight or over a few days of not running. set your meter to dcA (dc amps) and move the red lead on the meter to the amp port. Unhook the negative cable on the battery and hold one lead to this cable and the other to the negative post of the battery. any more than about 30ma isn't acceptable. depends if you have an alarm system. some of them can pull up to 40ma by theirself. anything more than 300ma can drain your battery over just a few days.

just buy a turbo one. they never leak headgaskets unless you just nuke them with a serious overheat.

balk! I just love when I buy a car with a miss for a great price, and the electrode has receded into the insulator and no longer fires. Throw them in the trash.

rod knock. if it hydrolocked with fuel, you may have damaged the rod bearing or bent the rod on the flooded cylinder. Here's my happy rod bearing in my outback. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlFzBKZ0qS8&feature=plcp

well, it happens so often that our records are all broken in that spot! I would check for intake and or vacuum leaks. Is it a specific cylinder or random misfire? Does it post any codes/check engine light and what are the codes? My wife's old 98 forester posted a p0420 code and we kept driving it and within short order, it started bucking and surging under load. I chased my tail for weeks and realized it was the cat with an intake vacuum test. Under steady throttle at around 2k, the vacuum will fall off hard. I pulled the manifold and cat and found that it had melted down and over half was completely blocked and 25% was partially blocked.

I got 10 bucks on P0420. I have a 96 impreza and a 97 outback both chunking this code.

especially if the wires are aftermarket junk. Use dealer oem or ngk wires and ngk platinum plugs.

to whomever does it, make sure you grease the tap to catch all the yummy aluminum chips that are otherwise going to fall in. I stop half way, back out, and clean and regrease before going more

If you press your finger nail into the belt and it dents and leaves an impression, replace it. The nitrile is hard. If it rebounds, It's ok.

you need to use your top hats on those rears and drop a paper tube down over the bolt and fill the rest of the top hat space inside with polyurethane construction adhesive or they will knock like bejessus. the wrx struts and springs will lower your car about 1-1 1/2" Best suspension mod ever. before after Wheels and roof rack nice and firm, not too low and friggen awesome handling!

chances are it's something below the intake manifold somewhere. I have had difficulty in the past trying to get that wiring to sit right between the coolant over-pipe and the intake. maybe it's pinched there.

i have purposely went to a used tire shop and told them to bring me a tire out with 4/32's of tread to match the others. been like that for 5 months. They are hella bald now.

pull the carpet out and buy you a disposable plastic rubbermaid tub and a 6 bottles of black RIT brand liquid dye. add water and soak. I don't remember how long, but maybe overnight? then rinse, vacuum with wet/dry vac, and let sun dry. then brush with a nylon brush and it will look brand new. I have seen some people do it with a spray bottle but i think without rinsing the excess, it can have some residual back transfer to anything in the floors like shoes, bags and papers.

wrong section

I too will only use dealer gaskets. screw the rest. seen ebay evergreens pop on a guy on here's forester in 2 weeks. To hell with that.

it's usually inner tie rods. unless the steering wheel has play and the tie rods are tight remember, the inner tie rods are under the rack bellow tubes, so he may not have pulled the bellow back and seen the inner tie rod

also, it's buck/surge was extremely rythmic as the mass air/computer tried to figure out why there was an inconsistancy between throttle position and mass air readings.

you have a plugged up cat most likely. check if the up pipe is plugged up. my forester (non turbo) would buck and surge under throttle and the front cat was plugged up.

I do it without the alternator and power steering pump in place and just put my 12mm with extensions under the intake and into the top access hole on one of torque converter bolts. Once it wedges against the access hole side, it won't turn and won't damage the flexplate.

my wife's 2.2 swapped LSi sedan gets 21-22 no matter what I do. I think it's ecu related.