Ricearu

I am not sure they will ever bring that diesel in. The cost to EPA/CARB certify an engine is enormous. They are only talking 1.6 and 2.0 gasoline.

grab one from a junk yard

also, when filling the radiator, try to park with the radiator on the high end of an incline. crack the bleeder screw and fill it until coolant comes out. ENGINE OFF. try burping the hose with your thumb over bleeder screw hole and see if the coolant goes down. do this all with the car cold.

I run rotella t 15-40 in all my cars, over 100k. The only engine I have ever had fail (bearing or wear related) was the outback and it spun a rod bearing 1k after headgaskets and some hella overheating. My '90 (used rotella t for 30k) had the cleanest seperator plate I have ever seen. It never gets cold here though. In the winter I would run a lighter oil.

the thrust bearing is what keeps the crankshaft from walking back "in and out" of the case. That movement is called endplay. It takes the load from the clutch etc. It is why you shouldn't idle with your foot on the clutch, you should put it in neutral and take your foot off until you are ready to go.

thanks guys. I really appreciate the help. I must be mixed up or retarded.

the stock head bolts are torque to yield and non reusable. Shouldn't they not be reused? That is what every FSM and manual has EVER said. I am not trying to argue, I just want real world experience. Do you torque them back to stock specs per the manual or do you go a little tighter because of the previous stretch?

with that much mileage, I personally would keep doing whatever you are doing. It's working well. I personally would probobly run rotella t (DINO) 15w-40. I put it in all my subarus that are over 150k. But there are arguements against that. The only subaru I have had bottom end problems on is my 1997 DOHC outback, which has been overheated to hell

I was thinking of buying this gasket set http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-98-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-EJ22E-Head-Gasket-Set-Bolts-/360433477246?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb82667e&vxp=mtr then tossing the headgaskets and using dealer head gaskets. are the head bolts worth two shoots? same thing here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Gasket-Set-Head-Bolts-Subaru-Forester-Impreza-Legacy-2-5-Liter-EJ25-DOHC-/260854360106?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbc21a82a&vxp=mtr I have two subarus with engines apart and NOT alot of cash to work with... Any Ideas fellas?

the ej22 I stuffed in my black wagon from a 93-94 lego wagon (facelift) came with a yellow plastic one, It was leaking but was super flat on a sheet of glass so I lapped it a little on glass/sandpaper and resealed it careful not to crack the screw sockets by overtightening. I used ultra copper and It still doesn't leak, and its been 30k+. I know it's a no-no but I really didn't have the 25 bucks for the new one at the time.

does anyone here have experience with mizumo head bolts? Both for the ej22 and ej25? I am thinking about buying their gasket set and just toss the hg's in lou of dealer headgaskets. The whole gasket set including intake exhaust valve cover etc is cheaper than a dealer set of head bolts by a long shot also, does the ej25d have the thrust bearing in the number 3 or the number 5 position?

the early ej22's have aluminum seperator plates, with recessed screws. clean yours up if it aluminum, and set it on a piece of glass and make sure it's flat, if it is, use ultra grey permatex and reseal it back on. No need to upgrade.

hmmmm. I am gonna tear down the 2.5 and check to see what the machine shop can do for me. I don't have much money but if if it costs me head gaskets and machine work, and isn't ungodly expensive, then I can handle it. sucks I just did the head gaskets too... It's my first time splitting a block, so what do I need to seal it back up? ultra grey like all else? is there any o-rings or anything I need to order to do this?

My buddy has a JDM DOHC 2.5 in his base FWD impreza and it is pretty damn fast, and a tire roasting machine. use a 99 DOHC bottom end, or 99+ SOHC bottom end. the 99 DOHC is the same as the SOHC (bigger rod bearings) and is usually easier to find. call cometic and order the gaskets over the phone, they come in less than a week. order dealer head bolts and a new set of intake gaskets if yours crumble, for the 2.2 use your heads and that block and all your stock goodies and go to town. Delta cams are a really good investment too.

some 2.2's had arrows on one of the star legs. it throws alot of people off. the back side little "tabs" on the crank sprocket are the trigger wheel Theoretically at some point, they should all line back up but it may be a whole ton of revolutions. As long as all the tick marks line up, it's gold. Did your old timing belt break?

mainly just oil leak issues

you used the ticks on the cam sprocket edge, not the arrows correct? and on the crank, you used the tick on the trigger wheel, not the "triangle" on the front of the cam gear? I never use the lines on the belt just make sure the timing ticks all line up

Whatever you do, don't drive it with it overheated. Mine only lasted 1,000 miles after the head gasket job...

it has tentacles? Glad it's running good!

Well, my outback spun a rod bearing 1k after headgaskets. I bought it with them blown, so I guess johnny jack@$$ ran it hot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlFzBKZ0qS8&feature=plcp I need to know if I can swap a EJ22 crank into a EJ25D? easily... I have a 90 EJ22 with 150k on it and strong bottom end, parted because of blown head gaskets. Heads are long gone I have a sparkly clean ej25D with a bad rod bearing. Any help on what I can do. Can I bolt ej25D heads directly onto a ej22? What head gaskets to I use? I have 2 weeks and minimal money to get this car going... thanks for any help

NGK all the way ive had bad exp with bwd wires

every subaru I have done head gaskets on I have had the heads resurfaced at a auto machine shop, and used NO sealant on headgaskets. I have never had a refailure. The gaskets are precoated and DO NOT require sealant. The whole world has always told me that sealant on headgaskets is bad news because it causes a fail point between the fire ring. dealer only headgaskets (the ej22 never had a "problem" with blowing them) use a stant xactstat or dealer thermostat only. If you buy a aisin water pump (oem) from rockauto, it comes with the metal gasket exhaust and intake gaskets CAN be reused if they come off in one piece, but I always coat them in permatex copper spray-a-gasket for insurance. make sure you tighten the dog crap out of your flex plate to torque converter bolts if it's an auto. they can back off and rattle like hell and make you think that your engine is toast. do the timing belt. I like goodyear/contitech kits personally, as they rate them for 105k like stock. also replace all the idler pulleys with it (I buy the kit) also, if your seperator plate is plastic, replace it. If it is aluminum/steel reseal it with ultra grey. reseal the oil pan with ultra grey DON'T jack with the rear main oil seal. it almost NEVER fails, and the only one I have ever had to change was the one I replaced with a clutch kit and appearently misinstalled it on the way in. I NEVER change them anymore look at the oil pump (on front crank snout) if it is leaking, get the dealer gasket for it and replace it and the front main oil seal. it's good insurance for later. if it isn't leaking, LITFA after tear down, I prep all gasket surfaces except the heads but including the block, with fine 3M ROLOC discs. takes gasket junk right off and won't tear the aluminum up. just keep your drill moving and the disc flat. leaves a finely "sanded" gasket ready surface. Make sure you stuff clean shop towels in the intake holes and cylinder bores before doing this. I will usually very carefully clean off the carbon ring at the edge of the cylinder at this time with a fine. knife and some oil. wipe out the cylinders with a clean rag or shop towel and slather a little clean motor oil back on the cylinder walls before installing heads invest in a good torque wrench and torque to spec, don't over torque the head bolts and make sure they are clean and dry and dip the threads in oil before reinstalling.

sounds like overcharge to me. i think they only take like one pound 4 oz or something

You can drill the back to match or you can use the legacy top hats and springs in the back. I did this and after about a month, they broke the bushings. I had to fill them with polyurethane construction adhesive to get them from knocking and squeaking.

control arm bushings maybe, or maybe a strut/strut top bushing Could be an axle also, if one is toast, I have seen one do funky stuff on my old GL.