rugbyben

that seems like a lot of miles for an '00 how was it driven? since the warranties are up on both, I would pick the imprezza just because the forrester really doesnt do it for me looks wise either. but the logical person would pick the one with the less miles.

WOW. Dont drive much in the rain do you? But seriously, how often do you need to clean your filter with something like that?

I tried it with the clutch in reving the engine up and it happend. I have not tried it out of gear yet. its not really a whurring, it definetly is a more metallic squeaking, but not like a loose bolt. its like a moving part that is not lubricated. im thinking maybe one of those bearings you talked about. I still have power train warrenty. for about 10K miles. or until October '05 would this be covered? If i take it in to get looked at to find out what it is. will it cost me a fortune to just find out?

Hello. I am hoping some one can offer me some suggestions about this. I have a ’00 OBS 2.2ltr manual trans. I have noticed a noise between 2.5K RPMs and about 3.5K RPMs. It is most noticeable when the engine in revving down while in gear. i.e. foot just taken off the gas. It seems to stop when I put the clutch in but that might just be because it drops below 2.5 The noise is pretty faint now. But I think it is growing. It is sort of a squeaking. It sounds like a bad bearing, but much smaller then a wheel bearing. Is this usual or should I get it checked out before it turns into something big? Any questions and I will try to describe it better.

Hi everyone. I will cut right to the chase. I have started to notice a noise from my '00 OBS 2.2Ltr. Manual Trans 48K miles it happens around 2.5K RPMs only and i notice it up to about 3.5K. and is usually loudest when I take my foot off the gas and the engine is winding down still in gear. it seems to stop when I put the clutch in but i think that is because the RPMs drop. It is not very loud so its hard to tell if it continues when I am revving the engine up. The noise itself is sort of between a rattling and a squeaking. it seems to be coming from underneath the engine maybe in the transaxle. it is pretty quiet. I can only hear it with the windows down and if there is not a lot of traffic noise. I am hoping it is just somthing subarus do, but I figgure someone on here can tell me. the sound resembles what a bad bearing sounds like but smaller then a wheel bearing. I still have factory power train warranty. But I hear they are a nightmare to deal with. Any suggestions or questions i would be happy to try to go into more detail. I want to make sure this isn’t a sign of a bigger problem.

Yah. I remeber 83cents a gallon when I had my big V8 chevy nova. I had to fill it up every week and I just didnt care. That car would bankrupt me now. Sorry for you Setright. Hybrid anyone?

Hey if you want to pay a couple thousand extra for a different grille and badge, and probably twice the repair cost if you take it to the dealer be my guest. I will stick to the subaru version myself.

check tire pressure cold, then after a good drive. make sure all 4 match both times. it may show different pressure, and might account for the shake and why it only happens those certain times.

I really dont know anything about that code you got, but if you think it might be a sensor malfunction I might have some info. I have not experienced myself but I have heard that the oil on the membrane of most performance air filters gets sucked into the tubes and can play havoc with any sensors it touches. I have been told by many mechanics and even a couple of tuners that it is better to go with a dry filter like Fram and just replace it more often. the performance filters really don’t do that much anyway. a clean OEM paper filter has just as good flow.

thats good info. I use www.tirerack.com for my comparisons. they have all the tire info and grades given by people who bought them. sure there are usually only like 5 or so for each tire, but at least it is from consumers rather then companies. If you use that and you have a Sears Auto near you. they match prices on tirerack. so you can print it out and go there they will match that price add back in shipping then you can get the mounting and all there too. its just easier then having them shipped to you then balanced and mounted later.

HA HA!!! that would suck. I think we need to take more of a Darwinistic approach. Improve the gene pool. Get rid of wet floor signs, knock sensors, and those tags on your hair dryer that say not to use under water!! We are already doing our part here in PA by repealing the helmet law for motorcycles. That should thin out some of the moron population. Okay so we are getting off topic here but its my thread so I dont care!

Thats a great idea. Where can you find one of these readers anyway?

Not all impreza outbacks are outback sports. It is mainly just a trim level though. i.e. sporty hood (not functional ) and the spoilers on the back. the alloys are only an option on both models, only the WRX comes with them standard i think. I dont know if this changed over the years though. Now dont quote me on this, but i think the OBS has some improved suspension, over the other impreza models, I know it does over the sedan (more wheel travel) but i really dont know about the standard outback. probably not. thats all i can think of. a good place to look would be the subaru website.

I do understand why they do the sensor thing. And I am not as young as you think. My first car was a 1978 Nova. After cats were required but it was a mechanical distributor and a 4 pumper carb. No need to get all fiesty. I just though it would be fun to bring a little humor to the fact that cars are becoming so complicated it is becoming more and more expensive to keep just the self diognostic systems operating. I understand the concept of a catch 22. if you are sane enough to want to remove yourself from perril, you are not "insane", therefore you can not be removed from service. Those that continue to put themselfs into perril are insane, but since they dont ask they are not removed from service. The EPA requires pollution controll, fine, and autos want to diagnose problems before you are in trouble and avoid heafty repair expenses, i.e. self preservation. So they add a system that requires a lot of expense to keep in operation i.e. adds perril. get it? Have a sense of humor!

Thanks for the experiment Tiny. that realy helped me choose what to do with mine I have been looking into intakes for my '00 impreza and I was thinking i would want a "cold air" intake, but it is obvious that the cold air itself wont be much different. but could the increased power from these mods come from a less restricted air flow? I have the '00 OBS which does not have the snorkus in the fender. but it does have these different sized chambers coming off the the intake tube. Are they to silence like the snorkus was on previous years. or do they work acousticaly to help improve the sound? they are on the under side so theyre hard to see in this picture. Would removing them and blocking off the holes improve my air flow and help performance without fabricating a whole new pipe? maybe also add a velicity stack up behind the head lamp to replace the actual boxy inlet.

Okay I need to vent a little bit here. So far from reading threds on this site. (which are very excelent as compared to other car sites, you guys really know your stuff) Anyway back to the point. a lot of people experiance CELs, and this sends your ECU into a fit and changes performance levels to avoid doing more dammage. which makes sense. So this CEL is attached to a sensor for jsut about every problem an engine can have. O2, Knock, MAP/MAF, and god knows what else. But it seems that most of the time the CEL comes on it is because one of these many sensors has failed. So in a effort to make the engine "smarter", they may have over done it by adding a system that requires a lot of maintinence itself. Sure it may be preventing big problems in some cases, but a lot of time you spend money replacing the thing that is suposed to save you money. just sort of funny. Like "catch 22"

I have used then on a Honda. there call split boots right? theyre okay, a super easy intall but they obviously have to be looked after and dont last as long. But much cheaper then getting the OEM job done.

Nice!!! I dig those wheels, what are they?

as i understand it you can reset your ECU by disconecting the bat for a while. but after that how should you drive? i.e. shift at 3k 5k or what? I just bought this '00 OBS and it is a little slow off the line up until 3rd gear. but it runs great, no CEL no other problems sofar, but i have heard the ECU can retard timing after a while, so is it true that it learns from what type of driver you are? if so, should i reset it anyway, and drive normally? I am hoping to do some slight intake and exaust mods too. I expect I would want to reset after each one of these too right?

what is this tornado thingy?

Thats great!!! and i too curse the use of salt on snow. I live in PA and have to remember to put a double layer of wax on every fall to prepare for winter. and all those people who say undercoat is a bad thing, I laugh at your rusted floor pans!

I agree those armorall wipes make a mess, and armorall in general makes your dash look shiny but its got a greasy look and feel to it. I dont like it. personally i use a damp cloth, and that has worked well for me. but i guess it doesnt protect. so maybe dont take that advice. and for polish make sure to read the label for how often it has to be reapplied, that will give you a good idea of the hardness of it. though if you plan on polishing it a lot go ahead and get a lighter wax and use a car soap that takes wax off, because if you use the harder stuff and you wax on top of wax after a while it will be too thick and end up cloudy. Also with wax you dont always get what you pay for, i think Mothers Polish is crap. .

try the seafoam. that stuff works great. stay away from the other dump in FI cleaners. they work okay on the injectors as long as you run your engine hot every time you run it for that whole tank of gas. but if you go a short distance and it doesnt get hot enough that stuff wont burn and it can gunk up the injectors and will foul your plugs. I used the STP kind in my jeep wrangler, whose engine runs very cool. and it made a real mess. seafoam fixed that and made it run better then before.

Sumitoma Sirexon 4 seriously!!! they are great. and inexpensive. they are H speed rated, and have a 40-60K mile warranty. they are all weather and drive really well. they have a very slight noise when cornering sharply because of the outer block tread design but ti is hardly noticeable. I have tried to get them to squeel and have failed on my '00 OBS. Tirerack.com is the best place to check on tires. i think these are on sale on there right now too. I got mine at Sears Auto for $66 a pop with mounting and balancing. Oh and the tred looks pretty cool too.

I just got an '00 OBS and am looking for cheap ways to improve performance without losing too much gass/mi .. would this work for me. I am no electrical master but i'm pretty handy, usually only with mechanics though. do you think a layman can do this mod? and if I mess up what can the consequences be? I only have a basic idea what these MAP MAF and whatever else are, and no idea where to locate them. What is a good shop manual for subys?