coolskaterkid

Mine also sounds like the second video, but has newer timing components. Most noise is anywhere above 3k rpms, but under light load it gets a lot louder

My 93 legacy has been making the same sound yours does, atleast it matches what you described for the last 40k miles. I think it may just be piston slap, that sounds like a rod knock. Or its just got really hardy rod bearings. I plan to keep driving till it quits so i guess ill find out what the noise was when it bites the dust

ive had this happen in other vehicles in a very slushy sloppy snow. we call it sierra cement, same thing, once it thaws out all is well. Hopefully this is all it was.

93 legacy auto The Little green square that lights up for what gear your in on the gauge cluster, works on all other gears except drive. It worked before i took the dash out to replace a bulb, but looking at it know there is only one bulb in the area, and this one seems fine. Could and one tell me what plug in the back powers these maybe i have a loose wire

93 legacy auto 212k. When i hit a bump or pot hole the right front wheel makes a clunk sort of nosie. Almost sounded like a really bad ball joint. Got the front end up in the air and ball joints are nice and tight, no play in steering. All i can think of is from somewhere in the strut. Can they make noise like this somehow?

Ended up getting an auto zone alternator, didnt have time to get to junk yard, all seemed well for about ten miles, then the battery light, and brake light started lighting up, on and off, but i thought it was odd because when the battery light came on the lights seemed to get brighter. So i figured the regulator in it was bad, drove it from work to auto zone, and they said it had to test bad to get a replacement, but the tester on my battery car not running, and it had almost 15 volts, so it cooked my battery, the guy tried to sell me a battery for 125 bucks. But offered me ten percent off for the trouble. I talked to the manager and ended up getting the battery for 35 bucks, and the second alternator seems to be working fine. Wont ever get a parts store alternator again what a pain Thanks everyone for helping me diagnose the issue.

So tested it as shown and the light comes on, so alternator after all.Im going to tell auto zone there alt tester sucks. What makes them fail this way, the last time it did the same thing, no warning light, and once i noticed it was to late resulting in towing it home. Also some one said somthing about getting a alternator straight from subaru. Are they better then the parts stores, or cheaper maybe?

Used buss brand fuse tester, how would i ground the wire? just unplug the connector and run a jumper from that wires pin to body ground?

All ten amp fuses inside car are fine.

Did not find any fuse labeled "charge" in both the inside fuse box or main fuse box under hood. But checked all fuses with my fuse tester, and all tested good

Took gauge cluster out, removed bulb and switched with the oil pressure bulb, and still no light, but light lit the oil pressure. So bulb is fine, took alt to auto parts store, and tests good. Where do i look next?

Completely forgot, its a 93 legacy auto. First alternator went around 180k, this one i grabbed from a junk yard, car had that had around 120k on it, my cars got 212k on it now, battery only a year old, if not less. So sounds like ill be ripping apart the dash to replace the bulb, doesnt sound like fun. With 5 feet of snow expected over the next three days. Thanks will get alt tested at parts store any ways. Also replace bulb and will report back Edit: any one have a guide to removing the gauge cluster?

So far charged the battery,got out the multi-meter and it sits at 12.60v, when started dropped to 12.0 and kept dropping at idle. So defiantly no charge, but no battery light at all, even on the bulb test before start. I thought on some cars it uses the battery light bulb to complete the charging circuit, hopefully not the case here

So driving home today, i thought the dash lights looked dim, and a couple seconds later the radio cut out, so turned off all electronics except headlights and barley made it home. tried to start it and just a click, but no battery light went on. But now when just turning the key to on, i have no battery light, it usually lights when the key is on and goes out once started. Last time the alternator died it did the same thing no battery light while going down the road, but it did show when the key was on. So since its not lighting now do i have a different issue?

Well the air filters only a couple weeks old the plugs NGk have 10k on them, not sure how old the wires are will try that fuel filter is 3 months old I cleaned the PVC 6 months ago will replace that too. It's got 210k on it now

93 Legacy 2.2 auto First thing in the morning around 30 degrees or so, it will start right up no problem, but the last two days trying to leave work, it just cranks and cranks. So the first day i pumped the pedal and it fired ran rough, was missing, and i looked out the rearview, and tons of bluish smoke. It cleared up after 5 miles or so, then today same issue. All i can think of is oil is fouling the plugs, but why would gassing it get it to fire? Also not sure if this is related, but at idle the car shakes, almost like its dropping a cylinder, or a miss, i listened to the exhaust and it pops a little. But the least bit of gas and everything clears up.

Yea i tried spraying the cleaner down the tube it didnt help, i just hope once it gets cold down to around 15 deg this winter if it will be more trouble some.

It does it while its still in park, it stumbles recovers, and then stumbles again, when i put it in gear it usually will stumble when first hitting the gas, but then pulls right out of it and has no problems after the first accel, it never dies though, i sprayed some cleaner down the iac tube, will report tomorrow to see if there is any change.

Car runs great except for the first minute it stutters, this only happens after sitting over night, sitting 8 hours at work it starts right up no problems, gas mileage is 26-28mpg, and its a legacy awd, is there a way to clean the iac?

93 legacy 2.2 auto. A couple months ago i noticed on a cold start, that it would start, rev up like normal and then bog down almost die then kick back up to the high idle. Now its getting worse, when it kicks off the high idle, it doesn't recover, just bogs and almost dies, but if i tap the gas it revs back up, and slowly idles down like it should. Is there some sort of cold start or something i can clean?

I had the same issue, it ended up being the parking brakes shoes, the ones in side the drum needed to be adjusted. So i did till the drum just barley slid on, and problems fixed.

good to know i have done, alot to my front end even a steering rack and cant get rid of the shimmy, so i will go ahead and try wheel bearings since i cant find anything else in the front end.

On my commute, i go down a 7 percent grade in high gear,(auto in drive), Its around 10 miles, going around 65, At the bottom pulling out into traffic it will smoke so bad, to the point i can feel the plugs trying to foul, its very embarrassing, people stay way away. Best part is i got my plate called in as a gross polluter vehicle, so i had to go to a smog station here in ca, to get checked or they would suspend my registration. But it passed with average numbers, the smog tech was convinced some one called in the wrong plate. Almost every older Subaru, i see in the area does the same thing. I still cant figure out why it wont plug up my Catalytic converter. Does anyone know if these seals are replaceable with out taking the heads off?

Yup worn valve guides or valve stem seals, mine does it also on a long down hill grade with back pressure from being in gear pulls the oil past the seals

They did not check anything in the rear, but it seems to only do it in high gear at light throttle just cruising, also if wheel is turned the least bit to the left of right it stops, just at center it shimmies. What should be checked in the rear?