coolskaterkid

does the timing belt usually get affected when oil gets on it, should i just replace everything while im in there, i think it has around 50k on this belt

So today on way home from work smelled oil burning got home at it was dripping pretty good from the timing belt cover front left side of motor if looking at it from the front of car. Is this the oil pump going south or possibly cam seals?

1990 2.2

he wants 200 bucks, says the lower idler locked up and flung the belt off, will the engine still turn over with out the belt on? i know it wont start. It is the 2.2 awd, 180 k miles. Any thing else i should look for?

thanks i tried taking the knob off and it moves all the way over, will try getting under the dash, thanks

Trying to get my heater fixed before winter. I flushed the core and it flows very well, i think it has somthing to do with the hot cold knob. It has always been sticky and feels as it slips when going to the hot position, So i think that is the problem but i dont know where to look. Both heater hoses get hot, and the heat just gets luke warm

thank you very much guys, got one side done before dark and will get the other done today.

So 84 gl 4x4 wagon, trying to put new pads on, went to squeeze the pison and it moved in a bit and then stopped, the piston did not go flush with the caliper, is it supposed to go flush? It makes it so i need about a quarter inch, more until it will slide over the new pads?

Thank you very much Now just trying to find some empi axles

So ive been reading and, so far im trying to figure out how to get the little spring pin out. I have read you need a drift-tool, is there a size needed, and where can i get one. Then it says to hit it out from the unbeveled side? How can you tell what side is unbeveled?

ok so i finally got the time to pull the motor again today, the clutch had some wear from all the slipping. So i took it to the parts store and getting a new one tomorrow off of warranty. I want to make sure everything works, this time. Ever since ive owned it, the clutch pedal was never really (springy) so it always came up somewhat slow, but with the original clutch it never slipped so i never though anything of it. But now im trying to figure out why. Is there supposed to be any return springs any where, other then the hill holders little spring. I am going to check to make sure the throw out bearing slides down the shaft nicely, it seams to move freely, but ill try it with more moderate pressure. Taking the flywheel to a machine shop this time. Is there anything else i should check before putting it back together. What about the little clips that hold the trow out bearing, they seam kind of odd, and just dont seam right to me, any pics of how those work would be greatly appreciated

well did the slow 2 amp test and this morning the full charge indactor was on, so i think its ok, luckly my auto parts store just throws it on tester and if it says bad they replace, but thanks for the reply, will get the alt soon and put it on and hope for the best, i will reply back with results

would it have destroed, the new battery that quick it has a two year warranty, and that was the weird part, no dash lights, the charge light did not come on nor did the engine light.

So yesterday, the car wouldnt start put jumper cables on it and fired right up, the battery was 9+ years old, so replaced it and all it well for most of today, I was sitting at red light ac on and, radio starts cutting in and out, so i turned it off thinking it was a short or something, then pull onto highway and it goes fine till about 35 when i tried to increase speed, and the harder i press the gas nothing is happing, then it down shifts and then starts bucking, so i turn off ac, and all comes back to normal, radio also, then decided to go home and turn on blinker, and it wont click or light up and it would basically only idle, so i feathered it home and it made it at about 5mph, once got in drive way, died and, would not start. took battery out and was completely dead. Would and alternator sucking juice make all these problems? Sorry about the long post, just trying to help explain. its got the 2.2l and 185k miles

i have 5w-30 fully synthetic in it now, been in there for about 300 miles. I sure hope its only the valve lash. Will try the seafoam and hope for the best

ok will try the seafoam, and see what happens. But what would it take to remove and bleed them?

Got a 93 legacy for free, it has been very well maintained, oil always changed every 3 to 4 k, it has 184k miles, and has a knock. i think its a bearing but not sure, it does it really at any rpms, but with more gas, it seams to stop but if you hold it at a certain rpm above 2300 it will make the noise badly. So i believe with more rev the oil pressure goes up and its quiets down. But just took it and it passed california smog with flying colors. So i want to know if theres anyway to find out what it is, and possible fix. How long do i have running it this way. I had it at 6200 rpms before the smog to clean it out and didnt make a sound, until i let up on the gas and tried to hold speed and it made a racket

So problem fixed, cable not the problem, but where the cable meets the trans the, cable housing clips too and then threads into trans, inside this, there is a little piece that looks like a flat head screw driver, goes into the trans, and on the other the cable slips in. This piece had broken, so when the trans spun the piece the cable did not spin.

so i pulled it off the trans i pulled the cable out of the housing and it looked good, put it back in turned it by hand until it went up a tenth of a mile, so i put it back on and still nothing. Is it possible that where the cable meets the trans, what ever that part is that threds in to the trans is bad or is it the gears as mentioned?

so its a 93 legacy auto trans. It was involved in a little front end wreck and now put back together, but the spedo does not work. No check engine light or anything, is there a cable or is it electrical.

So the light in the front lights up, and after i minute or two there are only about 4 small pin sized areas that defrost. So i believe, that the strips are old and not letting the current through is there any way, to replace the strips, or do i need a whole new window. Its an 84 gl 4x4 wagon

i torqued them to spec, not sure about the release bearing getting hung up. Clutch kit was a 180 dollar sachs new kit. But if i do get in there would i have to get another clutch disc. And defiantly get a new fly wheel. Is there any tests i cant do to know for sure that something is wrong internally before i take it apart again?

no i did not re surface it.. It looked good not glazed and no grooves. i guess that could be my problem. My buddy helping did not think it was nessacary the old clutch was still working-no slipping when pulled just replaced because engine was out.

new clutch kit. Now slips at high revs in any gear. but i can put it in 4th at a stop with e brake and let it out and car dies. but going up hill most noticable. Checked and there is plenty of free play. So is it just a cheap clutch kit, i really hate to take motor out again.

yea i lubed the pedal cluster but not cable will try in the morning when not snowing and if not i will replace cable i just wanted to make sure there was somthing i missed thanks