man on the moon

I believe this link will be useful to the current discussion: http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html As to rocker panels, I don't know. Never worked on them.

As to the OP: the legal thing to do is get a shop to drain the system for you. The stuff in the a/c system is...bad. We'll just say that. It has the capacity to screw you up pretty good if you get a decent dose. It is also considered a pollutant and it is illegal to release it into the air...has to be captured with special machinery. That said, if you decide to do it on your own (I won't admit to it ) there is a valve in the system over near the brake master cylinder. Follow the a/c line from the compressor back toward the fuel filter area, and you will encounter a valve like what you use to pump up a bicycle tire. You can hold down the little nozzle, but you'll get a faceful of nastiness. Use a needlenose plier or bike valve tool to loosen this valve slightly, put a rag over it, wait from a safe distance until the hissing stops. Do it outside. Note: to loosen the valve, insert your tool of choice into the valve, one piece on each side and just twist lefty loosey righty tighty. The inside part should turn easily.

After that weekend I would be saying: . And I almost forgot--I need to get gas in the morning, or I will be trying to get a tow to work

The sedan and wagon models have a slightly different wheelbase, I forget the precise amount but I think it's 5 inches bumper to bumper, 2 or 3 wheel to wheel (on center). Don't recall, I read it in a chart somewhere that could also have had errors--google is your friend! Pretty sure the info is online *somewhere*... Anyway, if you are swapping transmissions on a single vehicle, you can go from sedan to wagon and just keep the drive train. As far as my experience goes, the transmissions are the same length, the drive train is what varies. Way easier on the engineering and manufacturing end to lengthen a drive train than a trans! What parts are you trying to swap into what car(s)?

If the outboard ones are dealer installed, how was the alt installed before the car had a/c? And why can't we get those brackets after market if we want to take the a/c out? I would love to get my hands on those brackets. At least until I decide to put in a compressed air tank.

The rocker arms don't need grease to function, just a small (small) dab to hold them in place while you put the camshaft/housing back on. I just use whatever is on hand that is petroleum based--NO SILICONE. You want whatever it is to dissolve in the oil when you start the car. The last time around it was vasoline from the medicine cabinet. Just don't tell the missus. And don't use too much, just a light coating is enough--you don't want to get it IN the lifters (though it probably wouldn't hurt anything), just a smear around the tip.

You don't need to replace the head most likely, just pull it off, have it milled, replace the valves, and put it back on with a new gasket. Milling is $20-40 at a shop, up to $150 if you have it rebuilt. They will comment about the 'crack' between the valves, but that is normal for the EA82 heads and doesn't affect performance. Head gaskets are about $35/pair, you will also need an intake and exhaust manifold gasket. Probably a good idea to do the valve cover gasket and rubber washers, too. The cam tower needs silicone goop, no gasket. If you replace the cam O-ring add a few more bucks. So...minimum...$100 for the head? Or so? No more than $200. If you go with a full gasket kit, the kit is around $200 or so. If you have a junkyard with an EA82 car in it, ask what the price is to come pull a motor out. The ones around here are $100-200 for pull it yourself, and if you do the reseal and milling...$500 maybe for the 'new' motor?

Did you oil the seal and shaft before installing? Putting the seal in dry can cause small rips or tears due to the significant amount of friction between the rubber and the metal. Also be careful what you use to 'push'. The mentioned PVC pipe of appropriate diameter works, or the fat side of a large socket (I think I used the same 22mm I used to push the pilot bearing into place), light taps a millimeter or less at a time all the way around. Each 'around' with the socket should be as even as possible. As you have discovered, these are a p.i.t.a.--take your time and do it well! ETA: I missed the post where you said it was the valve cover, not the rear main. Apologies, and glad it was an easier fix than you thought! That is always a good feeling (even if you did end up pulling the motor. Again.)

I know what I forgot. Or one thing, anyway. Use newspaper to stuff any openings on the top of the motor. This includes spark plug holes, intake, water ports, etc; this way you don't get unwanted particles or larger pieces down inside where you can't get them out. Just be sure to remove the plugs before you put her together! I leave a bit sticking up so I don't have to dig it out with a screwdriver.

Use a petrolium based grease (vasoline, marine, electrical grease, etc) that can dissolve or dilute in the oil once the car is running. Don't use one that will clog ************ up, though. And don't use much--just enough to stick it to the lifter. AND DON'T USE RTV SILICONE. I haven't done that, but it would seriously screw things up.

Before you do anything else, I would recommend a Chilton's or Haynes manual to help. And search this site for pictures (I'm not going to make a super long post here) of various parts so you have an idea what you're looking for. Aside from gaskets, the tools you will need are: Ratchet and extension Torque wrench or meter capable of hitting at least 50 pounds. 8mm socket 10mm crescent/box end wrench and socket 12mm cresent/box end wrench and socket 14mm socket 17mm socket Pliers Flathead screwdriver Gasket scraper/poker/set/etc 600+ grit sandpaper Wire brush Brake fluid or similar (to help remove gasket crap) Oil/catch pan Hammer and piece of wood (dowel is good) RTV silicone capable of holding a seal for motor oil Marine grease or vasoline Paint pen or white out (optional) Flashlight (optional) Tray/box for holding tools, and loose nuts and bolts (optional, but really really recommended) I assume I forgot at least one tool--seems to always be the case in real life, so I will assume it is here, too. Gaskets you will need (at a minimum): Head gaskets Intake manifold Exhaust Manifold Valve cover and rubber bolt 'washers' You can do like I did on my first attempt. Take it all apart, clean everything, put it back together. I...learned a few things that way. Much easier to just ask (as you did here), search the forum (button up near the top-right), and loosely follow the Chilton's or Haynes manual. I say loosely as they sometimes skip steps you need, or add unnecessary ones. DO follow the torquing steps and charts, though. I'm not going to walk you through it--if you really get stuck, post a specific question here, that's the easiest way to go through it. I will write out a basic rundown, though: Remove the battery. You will need the space as well as the distinct lack of electric shockingness. Remove the spare tire. Drain the oil and coolant. There is a coolant drain plug on the bottom of each head, some are not drilled into the water jacket, so don't worry if nothing comes out. Remove the air boot, filter, etc up to the injector/carb. Undo the exhaust manifold bolts (14mm) and drop the manifold. Let it hang from a string/wire/rest it on a block/etc Tag and undo all spark plug wires, gas lines, and electrical harness. Tag and undo/move any vacuum lines relating to the intake manifold and/or head. Undo and move or remove your: alternator, power steering, and a/c stuff. Remove the timing belt covers, loosen the tensioners, and remove the belts. You may have to pull the crank pulley, radiator, and fans to do this. Carefully (emphasis on carefully) remove the bolts holding the intake manifold in place. These bolts are a pain to drill and tap if they break off. I've done it. Remove the valve covers (10mm). Remove the cam towers (10 or 12mm, I forget). Following the diagram in your Haynes/Chiltons manual for the head-bolt loosening sequence (17mm). THIS PART IS IMPORTANT. The sequence is the same for both heads. The piece of wood and hammer are for gently persuading your valve covers, cam towers, and heads to separate. Chances are they will be lightly 'glued' via their gaskets. Have the heads milled at a machine shop (search this forum for info on this, there are some specific things you will need to tell the shop I don't want to take up room explaining in this post). Clean all surfaces to the point they are so smooth you can not detect even a slight bump with your fingernail. Put head gaskets and heads in place and tighten to specification in the sequence directed by the book. Put the rockers and lifters back in place. Use vaseline or marine grease to hold the rockers in place until the cam tower is installed. It will later dissolve in the motor oil. Use RTV silicone to seal the cam towers and put them in place. Put new gaskets (rubber) in the valve covers and replace. Put your intake manifold back on. Replace and tension the timing belts. Search the forum for how to time the motor. It's not hard, but I won't go into it here. Replace alternator, power steering, fans, radiator, vacuum lines, wiring harness, gas lines, etc. Tie up loose ends. Fill with oil and coolant. Start. That's about it. Use the search button a lot, and ask a question if you don't find the answer. Not sure there is a good write up on head gaskets, but the various points are discussed ad naseum and plenty of information will come up in a search. If you have a question with no apparent answer, someone will probably link you to it, or answer it directly. Pictures are really helpful if you get stuck--take one and post it, circle or highlight the question rather than go round and round with lots of posts trying to explain something. Good luck!

Been leaking coolant since the new year, determined a while ago it was coming from the water pump. Being winter and having no garage, I lived with it until it started streaming (vs. dripping). Two weeks ago I dumped some of that gasket in a can, and saw no change. Decided to do the water pump gasket, oil pump seals, and change the oil (and tranny oil) this weekend, but...Wednesday there was suddenly no more leak! And she's held water for three days now! Guess I should still change the oil, but I am happily putting off the gasket jobs until the weather is more cooperative.

Possible, but if your bolts are in the mount holes it will be close to centered. If your transmission hasn't moved, it is unlikely the motor has. Rather, I think there are two other factors at play here. Maybe three. This list regards an EA82, there may be slight deviations for an EJ motor. 1. The driver side cam tower has extra length to accommodate the distributor. This fifth bolt is the one that's the pita. The fender/wheel wells angle in slightly. Not much, but enough to make that last bolt a real butt-kicker. 2. The motor is/should be centered, but the motor is not symmetrical back to front. Note that your timing belts reflect the piston set up, the driver side is set back 3/4 inch or so toward the rear as compared to the passenger side. The angled fender/wheel wells also factor in here. 3. The transmission is centered as can be verified by swapping your axles side to side, and the motor is centered on the transmission. You can swap heads and cam towers and valve covers just to measure things, though the car obviously won't run with the cam towers and valve covers swapped. Heads can swap but won't hook up to the coolant lines, etc properly. HOWEVER, this does not mean the fender/wheel wells are symmetrical in the interior. On one side you have the air intake, air filter, and window washer tank; on the other side you have only the coil and coolant overflow tank. On an EA82 anyway. The fenders are close, but not identical from side to side. Oh! Some EA82s also have an air pump in the driver side fender for the air shocks.

Is it a standard transmission/can you stall it in the meanwhile? My guess is with the switch going out OR something coming loose somewhere such as a wire causing an arc between two otherwise separate wires that effectively bypasses the ignition switch. Since the switch still turns the car ON I'm guessing it's not entirely failed, though it may be on the way.

I have had a burning question for the three years I've owned this car. It is better suited to the car itself, but since it can not speak I will voice my frustration here: Why, WHY, when I do one job (say, timing belts) does something COMPLETELY UNRELATED go wrong (say...crank angle sensor dies) that involves even MORE time and money? Then I can drive it for months and months and change the oil and within three days the fuel pump needs replacing? The first instance happened, the second didn't. Well, hasn't. Ok, in all seriousness, has anyone put a hidden unlock switch of some sort on the car? Under the hood/grill/wiper/bumper/etc?

Oh, he was moved sideways? That is different. I thought he had moved backward. That's not an accident. My latest favorite method of disabling the car is to undo the bolt holding the shifter handle to the linkage. This will only last until I replace the shifter boot this spring, but in the meanwhile it works like a charm. Pulling the wire between the coil and the disty won't hurt the car, and even if whoever tries to grab it figures out what's missing *there is nothing they can do about it*, which can not be said for disconnecting the battery cable. Pull the whole 6" wire and take it with you. You'd be surprised. Mine went offroading on a BMX course. I had (and still have, long story) a hole in the muffler. The neighbors with property backing up to the course called the cops, the cops showed up and the car popped out of the woods, saw the cars and assembled force preparing a game plan to come after them and took off through the neighborhood. Found the car, but the kids were gone (along with my tools and a few other things). From what I was able to gather between interviews and walking the course, it was in 4wd jumping off jumps, doing washboards, rolling over table tops, and bouncing off big banked dirt walls. It must have been quite the ride! Only a few scratches and a detached blinker to show for it, fortunately.

MAF=Mass Air Flow Sensor, correct. It is on the big hose coming off the big metal boot housing the air filter. Cover the CEL, no problem, but do double check on the ECU that there isn't a reason it's on. Take a gander at the side of the ECU and you'll see a peep hole with an LED in it that will blink a code or series of codes at you when the key is in 'start' or 'run'. The long blinks are tens, the short are ones. So three long and four short is '34'. There is a cheat sheet to the codes in the Chilton's/Haynes manuals as well as online. Six short blinks alone are "all clear".

With the AC out I have been doing well with only the clutch fan. I have the electronic one in the back but it's having it's own issues so I took it out and will replace it eventually. It doesn't get too hot here, though, or too humid. I think last summer it hit 90 a couple times :S

For future reference, the ECU light you were looking at is blinking codes at you. Six short blinks with no long ones means "all is clear". That one is not on the Haynes/Chilton's code list. 34 (Three long, four short) means...I don't remember right off hand. If you use the search function up there ^ I know there is a list on this forum. Chilton's and Haynes manuals also include lists. The long blink is the tens position, the short blink is the ones position. The ECU can blink several codes 'together', so watch until they have repeated. Then you know you have seen them all. The ECU is rarely the problem, and will (usually) save you a lot of time and trouble if you look up the code in the chart. And remember '6' shorts is "all is clear" (for the ECU--could still run out of gas or unplug a spark plug and not show up on the ECU).

A couple other things I've found in my time that can cause jumpiness (besides the green connectors. If those are connected, check a couple other things). 1. Is your timing light connected to the right plug? It's easy to spot the right plug and grab the wrong wire. 2. Is the setting on your light (if it can be adjusted) set correctly? Some lights are adjustable. 3. Loosen the disty and slowly swivel it around from end point to end point. If it is too far advanced or retarded, the timing light may skip, jump, or just appear in the wrong spot. Not all these things will cause a bouncy 'spot', but it doesn't hurt to check them anyway.

Is it possible they got into the car, rolled it a few feet, realized it wouldn't start, and left it? Or were trying to roll Ned onto a dolly but couldn't quite get it right due to (neighbors, decided the car across the street was shinier, couldn't turn the wheel/get the alignment right...etc)? My Loyale was stolen once, but it was due to the key my missing my pocket in the dark and not realizing it. Though, apparently, the neighbor kids DID notice. Woke up at 4am to a sheriff asking if I knew where my car was.

I test the disty by pulling a plug wire off, and putting something skinny and metal up there, and holding it 1/8 inch or so from a ground point. Not sure how close your wire was to it's mount but it may have been too far away just going by what I remember of the plastic and rubber housings around there. You can also feel the zapping if you grab a wire for a few seconds, it tingles your funny bone. The distributor could be off a tooth or two, watch MilesFox's video or use the search function to figure out how to align it. The chilton's description is very inadequate. It will still throw a spark if it's set wrong, it just throws it at the wrong time/place.

No, no...that's just how the boxer engines sit in general. Mine is an EA82. Even with small hands I curse my way through getting the driver side valve cover on and off. Pretty sure Subaru conspired to do it on purpose...no, I'm kidding. It's just the way it is. Give a kid a candy bar to help you with it .

Welcome!

Try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130121