Scooby17

both fuel filters are fresh and clean. It progresses pretty well. But there is a little hesitance if I go from idle and mash to WOT.. hardly noticeable. Not my problem. If you drag ea82's... well.. Been neglecting the soob:-\ but today I did figure out the problem.. But I don't understand why. The choke opens nicely until it's all the way open. It'll Idle there for as long as you'd like it too. Go for a rough drive (exhaust noise is ). And then I died.. 10 ft from my parking space. Opened it up and the choke is 100% closed. It did seem to be slowly losing power so at some point it must have decided to slowly close the choke (over ~ a 30 seconds to 1 minute period). Wtf? I looked at the electric choke wire and crimped new connections on. It looks fine though. Really seems to be related to moving though. I'll go look at it some more.

I think I'm going to have to just pull it and go through the whole thing and maybe rejet it some. One thing I noticed is the accelerator pump seems too active. Slowly opening the throttle (as slow as possible) a good bit of fuel runs out. I saw adjustments for this on other carbs but from looking at the weber diagram the only variable is the size of the accel. pump jet?? Thanks

1. Nope. Came from markjw sedan. It did run on the ea82 wagon pretty well. decided to tune it a bit. idled kinda low. Messed with the mixture screw/idle screw.. mixture screw seemed sorta responsive. Pitch changed at about 1 turn out and then started to want to die. Didn't really do anything up to about 3 or 4 turns out (didn't go further). Next time I started or tried to start it was hard to start. Pulled plugs.. got new ones. Started a bit better. Ran really rough. Then ran only on the secondary (weird...). Then boom and exhaust coming out by the rear tire. 2. jetted for the ea81 I'd suppose. Should be similar? identical? Yup. The fuel return line is fitted.

on a carbed ea82. regular pump/no regulator. Plugs were fouled. Got new ones. they fouled pretty instantly. very black. I also blew a hole in my exhaust.. needed a new one as muffler was broke and cat might have been clogged. But I'd like to know why it's running so rich b4 I shell out money I don't really have. Mixture screw was anywhere from 1 to 3 turns out. Didn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. Hard to start.. had to rev a bit. Then idled fine. Instant I touched throttle she died. Very finicky... Choke works. Thanks for any help. David P.S. If you've got a full ea82 exhaust or just the Y-pipe that's good I might be interested.

Thanks GD Also realized that some rainwater might have went into the pcv when it was without a hose (fixed that). After I flushed (wow.. atf stinks) and refilled there is still a TOD on the Passenger side. Kind of goes in/out at idle but is pretty noticeable. What might that mean? Car runs pretty good with the new weber otherwise.

it sat for a little while with the coolant there and I'm pretty sure it leaked past the rings...

^^^ as above. Didn't drain coolant before removing intake... (that's a bad idea for future reference). So I figure... no big deal. New Oil/Filter just had the crap oil and fram that i used to get it running. Guy at parts store says i need to flush with new oil filter and THEN get new filter and oil. Something about coolant being very bad for rod bearings... So. I've got a 2 oil filters but do I really need to flush with 4 quarts of oil?

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf here's the endwrench article for timing belt replacement. Certainly possible (and MUCH cheaper) to do it yourself with the help of friends. Much easier on a manual transmission to remove crank pulley (5th gear/assistant on brakes). A torque wrench and a (? 22mm) socket and you're good to go.

Hmmh. that's weird. If they're earlier white spokes they might not be clearing the front brake calipers. But you think that would be clear. If the calipers are ground down a bit or have short pads on the 4wd car then they'd be clearing the caliper on this car. Only possible thing i can think of... still unlikely.

As I understand it there is two main things that seperate those generations. Or 1.5 90-94 OBDI less wires/electrical gizmos. 95-99 OBDII More of that good stuff.. (which then might fail) 90-96 ej22 is non-interferance. New timing belt = 97-98 ej22 is interferance Timing belt boom = a 95 or 96 would prob. be ideal for your needs/wants. I drive a 98. quite reliable. 30k in the last year. never let me down. Many are available here with well over 200K. So that should say they're at least decent unlike 2.5s which are bad for HG reasons (obviously).

Hmmh. I got pulled over for driving with no windshield just last month. Although, I didn't get a ticket. Just a "You shouldn't drive you vee-hick-L around like that". Lol. such a funny look on his face. was driving to the glass shop after a deer tried to come through the windshield.

Not really. 1800$ is quite alot for a car with an ea82 in it. even with low miles the engine is somewhat unreliable due to Timing belts and it is very gutless. You can get a 1st gen legacy for that kind of money. much more car that requires less maintenance. and that would be AWD (not sure how much it matters) or maybe a FWD but those are few.

When the speed sensor was out on 98 legacy it threw code P0420 I think. ECU went to limp mode and no revving over about 4000 rpm (ecu would cut engine out then would work again after a few seconds). Revving in lower rpms was fine though.

yup. It looks fine with the black and black stereo. although if a person cared enough they could paint it.

Using metra kit part number 99-8900 a standard din fits quite well into any ea82. still some pains wiring it all though. Here's a good write-up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840 and a pic. It isn't in the way of the shifter either and a much larger version... (don't know why that's so small) http://picasaweb.google.com/SnowScooby17/RandomPics#5415942117686253730 Good luck.

^^^^ what he said also found this... "Compressing the Tensioner Slowly compress the cam belt tensioner in a vise, using aluminum or brass jaws, until the hole in the piston aligns with the hole in the tensioner case. Install a tensioner plunger retaining pin. You may use a small allen wrench as a retaining pin. Install tensioner assembly to the crankcase, do not tighten the mounting bolts. Note: Do not remove plunger retaining pin until cam belt is completely installed. A revised cam belt tensioner design was introduced on later 2.2 liter engines. The revised tensioner requires a special service procedure to retract the tension piston. Compressing the piston in a vise will damage the tensioner piston and it will not extend properly when it is reinstalled on the engine. Refer to the appropriate section in the Subaru service manual for tensioner handling procedures." http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf

yup. 97' on and ej22 were interference and all ej25 are interference. There is a good endwrench article on timing belt replacement. They recommend using a shop press to reccompress the tensioner.. although a vise seems reasonable. Hard to say how long it would take. Say 4 or 5 hours first time and triple checking everything. But that's a guess. (Be sure to count teeth)

Interesting. Both of your rear brake pads showed that sort of uneven wear? That happened on my car in the front and it was because the brake was dragging slightly over a long period of time. That pad was down to the wear mark where as the other front was at 40%. Were the pads easy to get out or were they kindof stuck in?

might very well be at that price. Shipping would hurt you quite a bit though.. Hey GD (or anyone else who'd like to chime in) how do you remove the spring housing cover on an ea82?? I bought a manual conversion but can't ssem to remove that cover :-\

Well. bad news. Defineately isn't the switch. took it apart and wired them together. light came on/stayed on. just fwd. put on some better tires and it made it into the garage... that's about it. Is there any other simple problem this could be?? (Or is it probably the rear transfer clutch ) I guess I'm sortof in the market for a D/R or even single range 4wd tranny if it is the transfer clutch...

When I press in the 4wd button the light comes on and there is a click sound (engine on or off) and when it is released (and comes all the way out) there is a buzz. So I take it my problem doesn't lie with the switch So that sucks. Although a 5sp would certainly be nice. I'm just not sure the engine warrants it as it had TOD very bad. And I really wasn't planning on keeping this car for too long... Where is the 4wd solenoid?? or whatever it is that actually signals the trans to go to 4wd.

"No vehicle can climb when all 4 wheels have 0 traction" Wait... What? Hmmh. many people seem to be making comments thinking it's false. Interesting watch either way. especially how the honda/toyota drivetrain failed to climb a hill with no traction to the front axle. And VW totally lied. (or this could be falsified). either way, a great way to sell a subaru:banana: Interesting that awd is not anywhere near the same across the board. As far as the question goes... 4x4 gets you at least 2 tires of traction and therefore I'd say it's better for climbing/offroad. Not sure about other purposes. I know my awd legacy is much more confidence inspiring on icy corner than the 4x4 wagon but that could be personal preference. Awd is also much more convenient as it's always there (hopefully). And won't lock on non-slippery surfaces. If awd comes with a center diff lock then it is 4x4 when that is activated.

Yup. A D/R 4-speed would be nice. (or do 5-speeds go into ea81s?). I just don't have money to put into this car. kindof buying it for a friend. Seems mostly like a connection problem. We'll see. ran good today. smoked less. I don't think she likes 30 weight oil when it's around 5*. {all gone now:)}

nope... the light comes on when the button is all the way in. but even if you hold it there it won't go in. Doing other work right now and it's cold/dark out. But I'll look into it tomorrow.

Marks ea81 sedan. When you push the 4wd button the light comes on and as soon as you let go of the button it comes all the way back out (normal?) and 4wd light goes off. Any trick to get it into 4wd? Just push the button? Doesn't work if I hold the button in either. Any help appreciated. Then I could drive it into the garage.. otherwise I'll go get my chains out.