Scooby17

yes. I like e-brake adjustments in my legacy. In my '87 4wd however that doesn't work... Playing with the clutch would be a good idea.. if you like doing clutch jobs/can afford it. I can't. So either "scandanavian flick" or some hard braking into the corner or left foot braking in the corner. still getting a feel for it too. today was the first real fun day. correcting with manual steering is hectic...

Wow. good deals. especially envious of the floor jack and jackstands for 40$$ they want about 40$ just for jackstands both on harborfreight and @ carquest . Now.. if only a heated garage would materialize.

Looks like a really fun project! Nope.. Battleground is in Oregon Thanks for the link Pooparu:banana:

Never had any issues with the radiator/fan... it just blocks the lower bumper/foglights full of snow slush. This is in my 1998 legacy L As for the wheels/suspension. Gets absolutely PACKED with slush. To the point where I have almost not been able to move my car after the slush froze. (clutch dump) Always kick it out and loosen it if you plan on parking for awhile in freezing temps...:-\ I've noticed the mudguard/splashguard actually helps hold the slush in the wheel well. If you took those off I think it would be better.. But the person driving behind you (not that there are usually any in snow:banana:) might get pissed:rolleyes: Concerned about the fans blocking though.. how much slush were you driving in...

Hmmh. actually recall a video of just that somewhere on the justy forum. It was some hatchback or other on tank tracks rallying in the snow.. would be sweet. as for finding that video.. I have no idea.

Yup. Those all season tires tend to be pretty worthless in any real winter weather. Mine were over 60% tread and I was just spinning them on flat in FWD. I can drive my whole icy driveway up hill in FWD if I now choose with blizzak studless tires or I can press the 4x4 button.

Hmmh. I just realized that is almost a 5 hour drive for me. For some un-intelligible reason I thought it was more like 2.5 or 3. Have fun and bring back some nice pictures:)

Hmmh.... still being frustrating. Have temporarily solved problem by using a little block to hold the choke 100% open once car is warm. Obvious this is a P.I.T.A. to insert/remove all the time. But it won't kick into high idle with the choke fully open. The linkage between the throttle/choke is very loose... just jiggling that affects idle. I am thinking about a manual choke conversion (*that operates from inside the car:grin:*) I also adjusted the mixture MUCH leaner. was way too rich. The car still backfires some and the exhaust flow seems very irregular. I know a piece in the muffler is broken (rattles around) but was wondering if I might have a clogged cat as well?? easy way to tell? Thinking about getting a glasspack and maybe 2" pipe from the cat back for now.. Thanks:)

uh-oh. So I got the suuby running good today and got the 13's on there on white spoke wheels.. however they BEARLY clear the caliper with front brake pads @ around 20%. That sucks. This is the part where I grind a bit out of the caliper ?? I used 50 grams (about 1.75 oz) of airsoft bbs. Cost 30$ to get mounted and "balanced" vs. 80$ for the legacy w/ normal balancing (doh) I'll post back tomorrow after I get her to highway speed!! A pic or two:

Got a set of "throttle return springs" at CQ for 6$. there was like 5. used the smallest one. The gas pedal is less spongy and it seems a little bit better.. However, it will still high idle too easily.. I think it's because the engine can't reach operating temp @ idle since my fan was hardwired by PO. the choke doesn't open quite 100% and I can't get it to normal idle unless I pull the choke open all the way and lightly punch the throttle. On the bright, it's improved and the hot start issue was just excessive flooding because the throttle was so open... Got my winter tires on her and think I'll drive her around the next couple days and report back!

Choke is fine. The linkages seem to move pretty freely but the return spring is VERY tired and I think that may be my entire problem. Where do I get a new one? should i just get something similar @ an auto parts store?

I don't think it's a vacuum leak. It goes into low idle sometimes and switches back and forth when you rev slowly let off and then quickly punch to return to normal idle... problem is it hardly even goes back to normal idle and easily starts to high idle.. interesting point about the brake booster. it wont start hot as in once engine is at operating temp and I turn off the car it won't start for 10 minutes no matter what. no gas/full gas/pumping/etc. other times 1st crank. Interesting point about the secondaries I'll look into that.

'87 dl 4x4 carbed The choke seems to be operating properly but it's got some weird syptoms. often the high idle sticks so it idles much too high/accelates continually. If it does low idle (rarely..) if I hit the brakes really hard it begins to idle really fast (not associated with letting off gas but rather stopping quickly) Not sure but possibly related it often won't start hot.. wait about 5-10 minutes and she starts up first crank. sometimes she'll start up first crank hot too... as I understand it there is no CTS in a carbed car, right?? thanks for any suggestions, I really want to start driving this car!

Sounds sweet. I'll try and be there in the 4x4 wagon but It's not so happy right now, so it might be the legacy. I can bring a 26" stihl and a friend or two. Anything else necessary??

well. I won't be doing the 14's till spring. I didn't have time and am driving up the pass tomorrow in a foot of snow.. and when i did that a few days ago it was sketchy... It sucks. I paid 77.00 for a mount and balance and he broke one of my lug studs that I didn't have the nut on (because the thread was mess up) It just needed a little re-threading.... My mom took it there... total ripoff. let you know on the 13's this weekend hopefully.

Try feeling the caliper/rotor and see which side is warm. This is best done after a good bit of driving without using the brakes much. Like after driving up a decent hill... I have this problem and need to re-grease the slides but mine pulls to the side that's hanging.. so you might have another problem? or more than one side hanging.

Nope, I bolted to the engine ground and the negative terminal. Both failed.. I don't know... either the tach is defective or I am (fully possible). I still haven't had time to look at it...

Hmmh. I think I'll try 1.5 and if that works on the 13's then do 2 oz on 14's. I'll let you know how it goes. worst case scenario I quit being a dirtbag and take them in to get balanced correctly:rolleyes:

I searched and read through the home tire balancing threads but those were all for bigger tires... just wondering how it works on more reasonable passenger tires. Going to try it on my 155/80/13 M/S and was thinking 1.5-2 oz as well as 185/70/14 M/S and was thinking 2-2.5 oz Those are both winter blizzak tires not mudders. Basically just wondering if this technique works for passenger tires and exactly how much to use as the guide was for bigger tires. Thanks and sorry my ignorance... but i DID searches.

Hmmh. so confused. I thought that maybe there was a bad connection in the pick-up wire somewhere on the way to the tach.. Just now I could get the tach up to 3000 rpm by tapping the ground wire on the engine ground... but I could not get it to stay there.. (even when i bolted it there).. might open up the tach just to look (2 screws).

Nope... can't get it.. Has a good ground and power. The backlight works when it's grounded and when I wire the positive wire the needle adjusts itself to 0 rpm (as opposed to sitting lower).. but that's it. if I tap the pickup wire on things the rpm goes up.. but otherwise the rpm is rock steady 0. The engine is running too... :-\

It seems that wiring a tach into my ea82 dl wagon would be simple... but... Pretty straightforward... hot, ground, dimmer, and pickup. Problem is I can't seem to get a signal anywhere with the pickup wire it says to wire to the negative side of the coil and I've wired it there are well as the negative wire running into the distributor... So where do I wire it?

she's alive Thanks alot for the cam sprocket! Still idles too high so I probably need to find my vaccuum leak (I know one is carb to intake.. missing a bolt...) Can't wait to take this onto the trails, the stock legacy did awful today... lol.

Yes.. the stealerships are evil. Friend of mine's mom paid 150 for new airfilter (and they apparently managed to brag about the technology in it) and oil.. awful. As an answer to your question.. no idea about Michigan by why not go a reputable local/general mechanic for basic work such as oil changes and brakework. It's really simple stuff and you shouldn't pay the dealer 100+/hr.