Bill90Loyale

Bucky92- When my Loyale hit 200k, I had the same sentiments. Like most of my girlfriends, however, she had to settle for new tires and the basics. A valve cover gasket here, a new radiator there. New head gaskets and rings just weren't in the cards for her. She's a simple girl married to a poor man, and she just had to keep one cylinder firing after the other. At 228K now and still firing on all four. Sad but true. Bill

I second the motion.

I'll second that motion. I note that you have a "new battery". If you jumped the old battery a number of times, this activity can fry the diodes in the (rectifier in the) alternator. I'd pull the alt and have it tested by your local alt rebuild shop or auto parts store. Once you get these bugs worked out, try to NEVER use the car to jump start others, or take a jump. DAMHIK. If the alt checks out fine, then put a neatly cut piece of black electrical tape over your CEL light and start saving your pennies for a purge control and/or egr solenoid. My piece of tape is about four years old now, and doing just fine.

Thanks for getting us back on topic Cougar. If I wanted to debate Fords, I'd join a Ford forum.

Mike- See this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37189&highlight=carpet+cleaning Once you get the seats removed, the entire carpet can be pulled out of the car and cleaned. A hassle the first time, but very satisfying to blast years of accumulated dirt out. Try to avoid saturating the padding material underneath the carpet. It takes forever to dry. DAMHIK.

I have Turbone's 2nd option above. Works like a charm.

Check this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56927&highlight=cupholders

I think the brus brother meant ANTI-SEIZE grease on the plug threads, and dielectric grease on the plug wire ends.

That's what happens when the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

If it were mine, I'd put about six ounces of Seafoam in the crankcase and take her for a spirited run on the interstate if you have one. Forty miles at 75 or 80 mph can be quite helpful in clearing out those small oil passages.

There's a black vacuum hose on the lower air filter box - engine side - make sure it's attached and tight. These can become disattached when changing the air filter. Will cause symptoms as described.

Loyale Owners: BGD73 has posted some interesting mods and repair tips here. I encourage you to check it out.

Same here. Magnecor. NGK plugs. 220K miles.

So is my brother. And a bunch of other brothers and sisters out there. How about trying a different approach to getting a laugh out of the ignorant. Thanks. Bill

A new coolant temp sensor (cts) might solve the problem.

Nice call GD. Way to go.

What's the milage? Who is the seller? How many prior owners. What does the engine compartment look like? Standard or automatic? What's the price? Now add: $400 for new tires. $300 for exhaust repairs. Do your own: oil change w/filter. New Plugs. New front differential (gear) oil. Check transmission fluid level. Fix misc. busted stuff that the PO neglected. Depending on the above, the car could be a real find. My wife's now has about 185K on it with no probs.

How many old subie owners does it take to change a lightbulb?

Pat's right (as always). I once had a HT lead (the wire from coil to distributor) go bad, causing a shutdown. Double check that HT wire or swap in a spare and see what happens. One more thing: make sure your rotor on your distributor is not loose (the little retaining screw can let go, causing a no spark condition).

Check out this thread. Particularly the final post. Archemitis is one of the gurus. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20242&highlight=high+oil+pressure

A long shot, but try loosening your fuel cap. Sometimes the old ones fail to vent.

I know you checked the plug wires, so this is a long shot. But when I had similar symptoms once, it turned out to be a bad high tension wire from the coil to the distributor. Might try swapping a different one in just to be sure. Hang in there. The solution is just around the corner.

See if it's this: If you can get the car on jackstands, spin the wheel with your hands and see if its the backing plate on the inboard side of the wheel hub. Those can rot and begin contacting the drum. Bend the offending piece out of the way or snip it off. Noise gone.

Excellent plan.

GD- Thanks for the input. The car starts and runs basically fine, despite my EGR and Purge solinoids being t's-up for years now. So I think the CTS is working well. The judder/shudder action is entirely clutch-activated (it's the clutch engage skipping around while the engine is performing well). Still think it may be engine-related?