WoodsWagon

Searchfor posts on this from before. I asked lots of questions and gave info on this from before.Blue i main power, black is ground. Dull green and grayish are speakers and common grounds, one left and one right. White is nothing I believe, red yellow and orange one is the lights dimmer, I believe yellow. Give me all of tomorrow, and I'l give definitive answers.

What signals run through the DIN cable? I can get a patch cable, cut it and splice in what I need if appropriate. This would make it easier to set up the audio feed for the PlayStation 2. If any Audio signals come back out of the DIN cable, then maybe I could use them to feed the amp? Thanks very much for your experienced advise.

I WAS NOT DRUNK. I'm not underaged either, just unliscened, uninspected, and unregistered, and I'm working on changing that. Sorry. Its easy to not get caught in our area. I've waved to cops going down the street on my dirtbike. The neighboring town is having a crackdown on ATV riders cause the Finn kids got too cocky about not going through the nicities of pulling over and saying sorry. The back end seems rediculously light on the wagon, so I have high hopes for it when its RWD.

I took the radio back out of the dash, and it has a circular type 13 pin one index connector. Posibly what i have heard refered to as DIN type? Could this be used as a source for line level? I assume that it was for a CD player to hook into, but I'm not sure. Could I feed the PS2 output into the radio amp this way? What actually runs around around on this plug? Sorry, I'm clueless as to the standardized setups of audio systems and have been using the poke it with the meter and see what hapens approach, which I feel may wreak havoc if used on this plug. I'm interested in the line level converter otherwise.

Whats a decent length of burnout to expect with a subie? I laid a 29' strip in first from 7k on the flat. In front wheel drive in the Loyale. Would second work better? I plan to take the front halfshaft out when I get my lisence and do E-brake stands in 4wd/RWD. I popped one of my front tires running over a road sign and the edge of a culvert's concrete headwall (I had my lights off..don't ask. I'm just glad I have 4wd), so I have an unmatching set of wheels, making the remaining tires disposable. I have throttle happy hicks to beat, so what can I expect? What have you all done?

You could hook the throttle of the leafblower to the cars throttle and get matching boost for RPM's. Mount the leafblower on the hood and get forced air into it.

The stock tape deck is out of a legacy, and is a great improvement over the Loyale's tapeless radio. It was also free. I am too cheap to burn cash on a headunit with lots of lights. My amp is a booster amp with equalizer that I found on the side of the road. It appears to have speaker level inputs, but they do nothin when hooked up to the speaker wires. The amp (only one channel, the other is shorted and now has the power transistors dissconnected) works with line level hooked up to its RCA connector. The whole system is verry low budget, with me making my own custom boxes out of 1/2" particle. It will kick arse and will not rattle like a cheap tin can. Thanks very much for the advise on the line level converters. How do they work and how well do they work?

This has been done before. The radiator goes up front in the trunk, facing down with vents cut in the floot and an electric fan to pull air through. You will also need to install a heater core to stay cozy. When the job is done carefully, there will be no outside evidence of what you have done. I heard rumors of someone who could wheelie theirs, but i don't know if that is true. Use the search option at the bottom of the page to look for other threads, I know this is covered elsewhere. look out on the net too - i believe there is support groups dealing whith people who have you're sickness of putting subie engines in old VW's. They get put in vans as well. Sorry about the bad typing, I cut op my middle finger and I'm practicing 3 fingered typing.

Take off the panel of the dash that covers the fuse box and the area above the pedals. There is a small hole on the top edge of the computer. turn the key to on and see if the LED in the hole flashes. If it doesn't, there is possibly 2 green connectors under the hood by the wiper motor. connect them if they exist (mine only has one?), that should kick the readout off.

BARX: Demolition derby rally style Looks like sh*tloads of fun.

There is also meshed over inlets under the quarter panels, but the mesh may not be fully alligned to the hole. I wondered if this was the entrance to the cooling ducts, but there is so many holes in my cars body its not worth the trouble. They may also enter through the recurculate air passage, because the outside air is closed off when the engine is off, its door is vacccum opened. might want to mesh over that while the dash is apart.

where should I take the audio feed for a seperate amplifier on a 92 legacy radio w/ tape? I was considering splicing off the rear speaker wires, but i know this isn't line level, and I wasn't sure how the amp would handle it. Any suggestions?

The end is nearing on the long and rusty saga of the 86 Gl 3-door. I finally got the whole front end, struts, crossmembers tranny and engine out. I took a sawzall to the floor to get better access to the back of the tranny to undo the shifter brace. I lowered away the engine and lifted the body up with our backhoe, and my bud ryan skidded the drivetrain out from under it using his little nissan. I got the passanger seat out, and I plan to put it in my loyale, cause its way more comfortable. i may keep the drivers seat the same, so that I can fit the PS2 undr it, I think that the GL seats are lower. I had to use a 3/4 drive sliding T bar to run the sockets because my 1/5" drive impact wouldn't turn the rusted bolts. Its amazing that the car didn't fold like a wet paper bag the last time I drove it, there's hardly any non rusted metal under it. Its kinda hard to see a fun car go, and with only 93k on it too, but thats why I'm saving the drive train. If anyone wants interior parts, I've got plenty. Except the carpet, which is real nasty. I hate mice die, cute furry mammal, die! die! Vile beasties.

Grrr. If only I had an E brake and a clutch, I'd go out and settle this right now. Someone please run my simplified test. And video tape it if you can.

Justy drivetrain? It looks like the engine may be in the front, but maybe its under the backseat. I doubt the towing capacity is very high. Was the justy ever manual or always variable speed tranny? The van loks like a manual. Try pulling bigger and bigger loads till the clutch smokes, then replace it and you know the tow limit.

Its crucial that the tires are the same size. Even varied inflation will cause binding. The only other thing than tires would be if the previous owner had swapped a 3.7:1 differential in the back.

What kinda bike? Biffanyus, find out what color the jeep was from you're neighbor and just dent everyone like it in the area. You're bound to get the right one eventually. Jk.

Maybe the flapper door in the air flow sensor is stuck shut? I believe that the turbo ea's had flappers instead of MAF's. When do we get to hear the real answer?

Mix up some bleach and water in a spraybottle and spray down everything inside the ducts. Better is smells like bleach for a bit than you get sick.

Scream and yell all you want, nobody in the advertising word cares. how many 5.5 peak hp. electrick air compressors or vacuum cleaners have you seen? i'm not in the mood to do the reasearch. Typical houshold outlet= 15 amps at 115 volts. now if I could remember how many watts a horepower is.. oh well. my unproved point is that 5.5 horse can't be created through a houshold socket, but that doesn't stop the advertisers from claiming so, because with the right currant and voltage, the electric motor could atain 5.5 horse, if only for a few seconds. Another case: my 1948 economy tractor has a 6.5 horse rated engine on it. My 1990's B&S pushmower has a 5.5 horse rated engine on it. The two engines are both simply carbed L head engines, comprable compression ratios, with my tractors being much larger displacement. Now what makes these engines almoast power equals in rating? Simply the word "peak" power. the lawnmower, when run at over redline speeds, will produce the "peak" power rating, but not for long. My tractor can produce its actual operating horse power all day long. This is what 50 years of advertisers have brought us to. We let it happen by believing their almost false claims. Only now do we start to complain, and we let it loose at a company that hasn't been badly violating the laws of reality with its advertising. Whatever.. longwinded reply to what I see as pointless arguing over a pointless issue.

Well, the only way i can see to settle this argument is for someone to plug one of their brake lines with a box nail, jack that wheel up, and hold the brake while letting the clutch out. According to Rweddy, this wheel will just spin instead of the engine stalling out. If the wheel spins for a second, then the engine stalls, then the viscious coupling has worked effectively, and it has been designed to handle the power of the engine. If the wheel spins for 3 seconds plus, then rweddy is right and the coupling cannot handle the power and the car is basically 1 wheel drive. I don't dare try this with my car, i would if my clutch had more life to it, but as it is it slips in anything over 2nd gear. Now my mind recovers its functions! Pull the E brake full on, jack up one of the front wheels, and do the same test, just simplified.

If you don't need the dual range, go with a EJ tranny. They have a viscious coupling in the tranny instead of an open or locked diff. This gives the EA tranny a 50/50 split, or 100/0 if a wheel starts spinning. The EA FT4WD tranny is a 3.7:1 ratio in its front diff. If you're grabbing it, make sure to grab the rear diff too, its possibly a lsd. If you don't want either, grab them anyway and put them on the marketplace board, there are many eager buyers for those.

Mybe the lifters are filling slowly and not opening the intake valve, leading to no charge in the cylinder, hence no compression?

Wouldn't a fast gun to redline, then letting the engine back down to about 3500 and letting the clutchout fast provide the best launch? The turbo would be fully spooled up and the engine would be closer to its proper starting speed when the clutch engaged.

I need to know whether you can feel the AWD system in an auto engaging an disengaging while you're driving, AKA does the car spin, grab, spin, grab or are the release pulses fast enough on the clutch pack so it is not noticeable. I've been advising a new subaru to a ford explorer owner and his main complaint was that the ford's AWD system would cycle while he was slipping and it made the SUV very hard to control. His quote: "I was getting passed by crusty old beater chevies and and fords which had real 4wd, and i felt so dumb slippin around in my Explorer." He wants an automatic, but I don't want to lead him down the same path he's just been on.