WoodsWagon

It would be nice if there were a way to transition to a new username, but keep your postcount and photo gallery. 91loyale doesn't even match any of my cars, it's a 92 loyale for c's sake. It's one of the most uninspired username's I've seen. And I'm stuck with it because I needed to put something in to be able to use the search function.

That's scary!!! I love seeing the belts through the front of the car, very baja beetle style.

Thinking of burning clutch, back on the 17th I went to the Wicked Big meet in Mass. The enterance was on a hill, so picture 2 rows of nearly all manual tranny subarus inching up a steep hill one car length at a time as we were let through the ticket booths. I was contributing to the general reek of clutch with my big tires, cheap clutch disk, and 3cyl's of fury. I heard 2 people rolled back into the car behind them, and they were both Evo's.

Part #? Seeing as my $100-a-side wheelbearings are getting loosish. Wyoming parts store prices suck.

It's been done before... http://www.brandonclassics.com/result_2.asp?table=cars&category=&id=457 The coupe doors have a different windshield rake to them, so I'm not sure if you could put them on a wagon. I'll have to try, seeing as I have a spare wagon and coupe doors.

It's not his first time out in a lifted roo. Ask him about the ice/water crossing in my wagon. It's good fun intiating the un-offroaded. Where abouts is the Dragon run? I'm not sure if i'll be in Scotland or wyoming then, but if i'm not, would an EJ25'd lifted wagon be welcome or a liability? I saw the pics of the XT that flipped, and i'm considerably more top heavy.

It sucked and you should be ashamed of yourself for posting it. Naw, it's neat. Paint it something other than lime green and put the subaru rally paint on it, should look better.

The airbag system really takes care of it's self. If there isn't any rips in the steering wheel cover, or the passenger side cover, and the airbag light comes on when you turn on the key and goes out after you start the car, everything is good. There's not really any tests you can do that the SRS computer hasn't done it's self. My dad's 95 legacy had the hooks cut off, and it sucks. Now it's been Outbacked, there's no way you could hit the curb, and the would be handy for pulling out other people.

My 86 3-door was missing the whole of those strutural members and most of the floorpans (the carpet would lift through puddles) I was afraid that the radius rods would rip off, but they never did and I beat that car like no other (well mabe the 92 legacy had it worse...wait.. the f150 that was killed... and the izuzu.. well nevermind) So keep an eye on it, but don't panic. You could always weld something in, like a bit o box channel. The axle that's clicking was probably a POS remanufactured axle right?

THe piece that the idler/tensioner bolts into is not part of the block. If you look to the right of the spot where the tensioner bolted, there is a 12mm bolt head, remove this bolt. Right above the tensioner, on the outside of where the timing belt covers mated up is 2 more 12mm head bolts, about an inch apart. remove these, and the cast aluminum bit that the tensioner pully and tensioner cylinder attached to will come off. Do the same to a junkyard car, and you're good to go, no tapping needed.

If you want an EJ20, talk to some local WRX owners who would swap theirs out for your EJ22. I hear there's a brisk business in that.

No, your not screwed untill the dealer refuses to do anything about it. Avoid driving with it overfilled, the oil get's whipped up by the crank and gets filled full of air bubbles. These bubbles get sucked up by the oil pump and pumped through the engine, and well, air doesn't lubricate very well. The tech's can put brake grease on the backs of the pads to help reduce squeel. If the turned the rotors but didn't put a non-directional finish on them afterward, that will cause squeel. Most of the on-car brake lathes have a built in wobble that helps give a non-directional finish. Take it back to the dealer and start bichin at the service writer.

Do you have a picture of how much coil you cut off? Like a full 360 of coil, or how much? I've got about 120lbs of bumper AND an EJ25 in the front, so I'm interested.

Have a shop test it for Hydrocarbons in the coolant. That will tell you if the headgasket is blown or not. If there arn't hydrocarbons in the coolant, have them pressure test the cooling system AND the cap.

I'm getting good at burning the exhuast valves out of my EJ22, so I'll attest to the fact that it's intermittant at first. The engine started burning oil 2,800 miles after it's rebuild. I had drove it from NH to WY 3 days after I put it in, and I couldn't check the oil, so it was down to a quart by the time I got there, mabe less. Way to break in an engine, right:rolleyes: So now it burned oil, not horrendously, but still, a puff of blue now and then. Fast forward to sometime last fall. I'm climbing a long hill, beating on the engine, and it starts missing hard. I downshift and keep it pinned till I get to the top, where I pull over. Miss goes away. I check for broken wires, and spray all the electrical junk under the hood with my water bottle. Miss is still gone. I drive it for the rest of the day, it's fine. Next day on my way to school, starts loosing power, then down to a solid 3cyls. 10psi comp on cyl 3. I replace the head, a couple of weeks later, same thing. Bits of missing here and there, then solid 3cyl action. That was back in december I think? Im still driving it on 3cyls. I think the injector clogged, engough to still fire, but run lean. I had them stored out in the open, and I cleaned and clearcoated the housing with tape over the injector tips, but I may have gotten some clearcoat in the injector tip. (the price you pay for vanity) The rings then got burned, the oil started flowing through, the exhaust valve was hot to start with, and the lean with burning oil sealed it's fate. The easy way to check for the burned valve without opening the hood is putting your finger completely relaxed in front of the exhaust while it's idling. Your finger will be back-sucked into the pipe in time with the junk cyl. I'd replace the whole engine if it was burning any noticible amount of oil. It's really dissapointing to replace the head and have that one get trashed within a month.

The filter is an option, so if it wasn't spec'd on the build sheet, they woudn't put it in. When you replace the filter in 30k miles, you'll be suprised by the amount of crud that it caught, which otherwise you woud have been breathing.

Take a look for rock chips on the condensor in the front of the car, which is the first radiator-looking thing you see when you look in through the grill openings in the front of the car. If you see a chip and an oily-dark area around it, you need a new condensor and an AC recharge.

A blown headgasket won't usually throw a CEL... So I think there's more than one problem there. We bought an outback with a blown headgasket for 2,200, which after watching craigslist, I think was a bit much. Outbacks with blown headgaskets come up in the 800-1700 range fairly often. I woudn't buy it. Oh, and Jeep's are Crysler, not GM. So you're even farther down the reliability slope.

Ahh yes, a rear LSD wouldn't like that. None of our subaru's have one, so I hadn't thought about it. Manarius, if they're both on the same side of the car, the spider gears in the front and rear differential rotate to cancle the difference, so the AWD system woudn't be affected at all. It's a much better way of replacing just 2 tires at a time than putting 2 new ones on either the front or the rear like you see a lot of shops doing. So, If you don't have a rear LSD, you can get away with replacing just 2 tires at a time if you put them on the same side of the car.

You do realize that the rear of the car will sit a couple of inches higher if you put outback struts in only the back? This will mess up headlight aim and handling. You would need to put outback struts in the front too.

if you can, don't put the adhesive lables on the back of the home-burned CD's. The rollers that suck the CD in to the drive can lift the edge of the sticker, and the heat inside the drive helps soften up the adhesive. When the lable comes loose and jams the drive, you have to dissasemble the whole drive to get it out. The 6 CD headunits that we deal with at the Honda dealership are not warranteed if they were jammed by a sticky lable. So we take them apart, clean the shreds of lable out, and then warantee them with a warning to the owner not to put the CD's with adhesive lables in.

You can replace 2 tires at a time on a subaru. Put the two used ones on one side, and the 2 new ones on the other, the front and rear differentials will absorb the difference on each axle and there will be no difference in rotational speed between the back pinion and the front pinion, so the center differential will see no speed difference. It may lead to a slight pull, but it's the most obvious way of dealing with the problem. It's how we run my mom's outback. 2 pretty decent tires on the drivers side, two brand new ones on the passenger side, all the same brand.

That had to be a year and a half ago or more! It's nothing personal Rob, I'm not judging you.

Yeah, it was probably reliable...

I'd say it was your neutral/ clutch switch. My EJ22 does it too, you're decelerating, then you push in the clutch and the engine just dies. I think it's because the PCM switches into no-fuel mode on decel, and when you push the clutch in, it takes it a bit to realize it needs to go into idle mode. Usually it catches it in time, but sometimes the engine is stopped before the PCM realizes it needed to swich to idle fuel map.