sea#3

Security system is in Valet mode - push unlock on fob - open drivers door - hold unlock button on fob until light stops flashing Hope that helps SEA#3

The dealer said the head gasket was leaking and wanted the radiator sent out to get flushed and replace the gasket for $2000. I would send the rad out first and flushed then give it a try for the overheat , You may not be getting enough flow through the rad causing the 3/4 temp reading . The SOHC head gasket don't usually cause the overheat situation like the DOHC head gaskets do . I'm assuming that the dealer is saying that you have an external coolant leak and not a blown head gasket SEA#3

IF YOU LOOK AT THE RING GEAR ON THE FLYWHEEL YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE A PUNCH MARK (I) IT MAY HAVE EITHER WHITE OR YELLOW PAINT ON IT , THAT IS THE 0 MARK THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT . IF YOU DON'T FIND IT ,JUST THROW IT ON sea#3

It should be plug and play , just check the part # on the ECM 's to make sure they are the same . Other than doing and idle learn , which is warm car up to operating temp , turn A/C on for 2 minutes on high then turn off . There should be no worries SEA#3

1996 2.5 DOHC came with hydraulic valve lash adjusters like the one in your picture. They will have zero lash and adjust automatically SEA#3

You won't bend valves just turning the cams with the engine off. I have built 30+ EJ dohc engines, trust me you can spin them 360 degrees. Then you've been lucky , there is a caution in the manual as to which way to rotate the cam gear for alignment so that valve damage does not occur It is mentioned in the article below http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf SEA#3

yohy ,,I should have been more clear .. yes you should still go through the flow chart and if everything checks out ok then i would suspect the neutral switch on the side of the trany . If you can find a scan tool that will give you live data on the switch you can put the transmission in gear and watch the on/ off signal while you gentle move the shifter in gear . If not you could try hooking up to the switch with an analog ohm meter and watch the needle for fluctuations while gently moving the shifter in gear . There should be continuity when in gear , open in neutral SEA#3

Asuming it is a manual trany , you would need to replace the neutral switch on the side of the transmission , What is hapening is the ECM doesn't know if you are in gear or not , so if you down shift and the revs go up it thinks the IAC is not doing it's job of adjusting the idle and sets the code It probably won't be covered under the drive train warranty but it 's not that expensive to fix SEA#3

did the badge look like this (see attached) SEA#3

There is a reflash for that model that will likely fix the problem Take it to the dealer and ask them to check to see if it has been done The only way they will know if it's been done is to hook it up to the SSM III scan tool SEA#3

This might help http://www.randomsoup.com/subie/subiealarmmanuals.html#9798secupgrade SEA#3

Open coin tray on left side of dash , lift up and remove coin tray from dash and you should see the fuse panel SEA#3

Glad i could help , Just a question do you have a trailrer hitch on this car? and were you towing a trailer when it happened ? If so you mat have a short in you trailer that blew the fuse . If you don't have a hitch then you will have a problem with the wiring on that circuit SEA#3

Just above the brake pedal ,under the dash . Should be a black switch . with 2 or 4 wires going into it depending if yo have cruise control or not Hope this helps SEA#3

Check fuses first , then check to see if you have power at the brake light switch , if you have power at the switch , then it is probably the switch . SEA#3

quote=steve22l]and if brake lights ARE working?.....then what? There still could be a fault with the brake light switch .If it has cruise control it is a 4 pole switch, 2 poles for the brake lights, 2 poles for the shift lock . you will have to check for continuity, if it doesn't have cruise .Then you will have to take a look at the neutral safety switch on the side of the trany, it may have an open circuit SEA#3

There may be debris floating around the rocker shaft oil delivery passage (see attached , red arrow) blocking off the oil to the HLA's You have to pull the rocker tower assembly to see if it is plugged Just like grossgary says you need to pin down which side it is. Endwrench has an article on the HLA's http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf Hope that helps SEA#3 oil passage - rocker.doc

Yes there is a way to bypass it but you have to undo the center console ( see attached) First you should check to see if your brake lights are working , if they are it maybe the neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission that is not working SEA#3 shift lock bypass.doc

The transmission are not the same , the 97 is a 1st gen trany and the 99 is a 2nd gen trany ( spin on filter) The valve body are totally different Hope this helps SEA#3 99 legacy auto.pdf 97 automatic -legacy.pdf

There was a recall on that switch , you may want to check your dealer to see if has ben done or not SEA#3

Going to have to go to the dealer and get them to scan the code SEA#3

On the TPS it isn't the base voltage you have worry about it's the sweep voltage as you accelerate , the best way to check it is with a lab scope and do a sweep of the TPS . That said if you don't have one , swapping a known good one is the easiest thing to do On the plugs , don't always assume that the plug gap is correct "out of the box" they are some times set for different models . They also can be dropped and the gap gets ‘adjusted ‘ I know it's a PIA but i would recheck them (0.039 -0.043 in) Hope this helps SEA#3

What type of plugs and what did you gap them too ? SEA#3

The 1990-94 legacy has a remote filter just below the battery on the frame rail , if you have never changed it it probably won't hurt to change it Here is a link for the kit http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=10336 Hope that helps SEA#3

I have found that these work well . the one with ring on the end grabs the edge of the handle very welll http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP5011-Specialty-Molding-Removal/dp/B000VYBLJ4 SEA#3