sea#3

Attached is the compression test procedure out of the manual, It says to do the compression test with engine warmed up and injectors disconnected. Hope this helps SEA#3 compression test pdf.pdf

Read the codes and see what it says , If its code 42 check the alternator SEA#3 ABS CODES.zip 98 Leg Abs codes.doc

porcupine way is the way I would do it, but if you must do it the book way #2(brown) of the 1to3 connectors is the one you want SEA#3

Does the noise change in the 3 position on the gear shifter and holding the same speed range? Also check the levels in the front diff and transmission SEA#3

This is out of the 05 Forester manual 7. Read Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) A: OPERATION Refer to Subaru Select Monitor for information about how to obtain and understand DTC. <Ref. to 4AT(D)(diag)-15, OPERATION, Subaru Select Monitor.> NOTE: DTC can not be read through AT OIL TEMP warning light. Looks like your taking a trip to your dealer friend , he can also reflash the TCM or ECM for some updates if they apply SEA#3

Bet ya the dowel were not in place , that is usually what takes out the flex plate (see attached located at arrow) Causes the alignment between the engine and the transmission to be off centre and stresses the flex plate SEA#3

My GF wants to buy a '97 Impreza wagon, five speed, with all the bells and whistles for $3500. It's got 200K miles on it, but claims to have new timing belts, etc, and is really clean and in good shape. It is a good old 2.2 but it is an interference engine , Subaru went to mechanical valve lash adjuster in that year and when they did that it became an iinterference engine SEA#3

Totally normal, the lines on the belt are for installation only. As long as your timing marks line up after installation and it runs, all is good . SEA#3

The system is checked when driving at a constant throttle, and then the EGR is activated by the ECM through the solenoid valve. The ECM looks at the map sensor to look for a change in vacuum. If it does not see a change in 2 driving cycles it will activate the MIL I’m sure the solenoid valve is working since you said that you can watch the EGR move when you snap the throttle but the test below can cycle the solenoid valve for a while , You can take a piece of vacuum line and blow through the valve while it is cycling, to verify that it is working properly 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Connect the test mode connector. (Green connector under dash by gas pedal) 3) Turn ignition switch to ON. : Does EGR solenoid valve produce operating sound? NOTE: other solenoids and the a/c fans will cycle at this time Another thing you should look at is the pressure sensor (map sensor) It is on the right strut tower by the air filter, check the vacuum lines to it and make sure they are not blocked (make sure you check the filter if it has one in the line) If that checks out there is a possibility the BPT (back pressure transducer) is intermittent To check it I have found it’s easiest to hook a vacuum gauge teed off of the vacuum line to the EGR and drive the car The following is the drive cycle it take to get the ECM to do the check Drive at 88±5 km/h (55±3 MPH) NOTE: Keep the throttle valve opening at the same degree, since diagnosis will be interrupted when the opening varies. Diagnosis starts in 190 seconds after starting engine and takes 4 seconds. Put the gear to “D” range for the diagnosis. Hope this helps SEA#3

Try this site http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm It will give you detail on how to turn it off The green connector was for a reference point only , it should be left disconnected SEA#3

You can check your codes (see attached) then erase them The connector is either by the gas pedal or it could be on the left side of the dash, just behind the fuse box Should be right beside the 2 green check connectors , that will be disconnected You will have to pull the black ground leads out that are taped to the harrness(diag terminal ) hope this helps SEA#3

I don't know where you got your specs ,but it's wrong . Here are the factory specs SEA#3

With the three misfire codes, a fuel trim code and two pressure sensor codes. You might want to check fuel pressure first; if that is OK then I would have a look at your front A/F sensor (02 sensor). They are notorious for going wonky if the MAF was changed in Nov/06 I doubt it has gone bad. Check to see if it has a blue dot of paint on it (denotes updated part) SEA#3

Check out the link -it is for 95 and up but still may apply if your 94 is a late production http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchPedal.pdf SEA#3

The hose at the crankcase is more than likely all dried out and not sealing on the pipe that comes out of the crankcase . You will need to replace it , you may have to go to the dealer You should also look at the two other hoses that connect to the t-fitting , and watch out you don't pry to hard on the t-fitting ,it maybe brittle after all these years aswell SEA#3

The ECM does operate the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) and it is usually on when the throttle is just off idle. you need to check if you are getting an intermittent power and/or ground signal or if its the VSV that is intermittent The Yellow/red wire should have power and the Green/black wire should be ground signal from the ECM SEA#3

Did you check to see if the power and/or the ground was going on/off at the same time ? More than likely it's the valve that is defective . SEA#3

I buy it from an independant supplier but is also avalible at our local NAPA SEA#3

I use this http://www.agscompany.com/products/index.php?catId=53&viewProducts=true SEA#3

You could come up to Canada and get one SEA#3

The inner seal on the housing goes with the outer lip to the outside towards the C/V( if that make sense ) The inner seal you descibe is a double lip seal , Correct ? Check out the attached SEA#3

ABS relay is sticking on , You may end up with a dead battery if you don't rectify the problem The relay is located on the ABS assembly ,by the right front fender. There is a black box #2 (see atached) then pull relay #3 You will need to replace it SEA#3

It's a shop type job , you need a special tool to get the shims in and out as well as an assortment of shims Basically any Subaru 1997 up has adjustable valves SEA#3

Subaru has come out with another updated separator plate that is pressed steal which has to be updated with new bolts , one that has thread sealant on it, which is located where the arrow is that is pressed into the plate SEA#3

One of the pins broke from trying to tap it in, the other is bent, but in over half way. I think the rear transmission case needed to be more level. Can I get back on the road with the springpins in the above condition and just switch them out in a few days? One other question: How can I tell the difference between binding and good connection -gear to spline- in the transaxle? (ie): is there a tolerance I should be "feeling" for? --god bless heated shops-- Jeff You have to align the counter sunk hole that is on the splined shaft with the counter sunk hole of the inner c/v hole when you assemble it back together ,then the pin will go through without bending The pin hole is drill off centre SEA#3