sea#3

Start the car up after its been sitting over night (cold) , open the hood and feel the top rad hose . If the stat is stuck open it should start to feel warm to the touch with in a few minutes of running SEA#3

Replace the Front A/F sensor (02 sensor) it will fix your problem It is a very common problem with the symptons you are describing SEA#3

The tranies on the WRX are just fine if you drive it like a human ... The warranty on the trany is 5 year or 60 k miles (powertrain) SEA#3

Yes they might have "Desturbed " something in the Front A/F sensor when they swapped the cat and you probably need a new one now Hard call ... was it on the way out? possibly . It's about the age and mileage they tend to go I would suggest they meet you half way , you pay for the part and they install for free ? Odds are if you leave it , it will eventually code up for a PO170 fuel trim code or the stalling and hesitation will get worse SEA#3

The rad cap is malfunctioning , If you take off the rad cap and examine the centre piece ( metal disc in the centre ) it will be stuck closed . You should be able to move it with you finger nail . you can usually free them up by gently prying on the disc and rinsing it under water , If you can't free it up , time for a new cap Hope this helps SEA#3

A couple of questions 1) can you shift into all the gears?(1st through to 5th and reverse) if you can you may have one of the shift forks on the syncronizer hubs is misaligned or out of the proper grove 2)does the shifter get blocked in one particular gear ? If so you have knocked one of the gates for the shifter forks forward /back and it's going into two gears Hope this helps SEA#3

They might have supplied you with the wrong PCV valve . The location is accually on the block for the PCV, there is a fitting on the manifold that looks like te PCV , but if you follow that hose down to the block you will find the PCV valve Hope this helps SEA#3

What year and model?? SEA#3

More than likely it is a wheel bearing that is gone .the easiest way to diagnose the noise is to put it up on a hoist (or 4 stands) and run it up and listen with a stethoscope If a wheel bearing is gone there is an updated bearing ,aswell as look at the seal surface on the outer cv . If it is rusted you should replace it . Water can get by the rust and seal and get into the new bearing and shorten the life of the bearing SEA#3

If the caps OK , then have a look at the carbon canister and make sure the canister hasn't been hit . They are in a bad place ( right hand rear just behind the right rear wheel ) and tend to get hit and cracked which can trip this code SEA#3

Replace the coil . More than likely the coil towers on 1 and 2 are cracked causing moisture to enter past the boot and corode the coil tower connections and the plug wires A easy check to see if the coil towers are leaking is to take grounded wire and pass it over the coil when the engine is running SEA#3

NO they would not remove the valve covers to do the T- belt and water pump The seals that leaked on the valve cover ,seal around the sparkplug tubes , they tend to go hard and don't seal and let the oil into the tube and fill it up with oil (like you said ) and cause a miss fire Just one of the things that happen when seals and gasket "dry out" SEA#3

Replace the Front A/F sensor( 02 sensor ) and it will fix your problem SEA#3

Subaru has also authorized the installation of a taper roller-type bearing, part number 28016AA030, as the replacement part on the applicable Impreza and Forester models. This taper bearing is the same bearing that is applicable to 1999 model year and prior Legacy models. If you have diagnosed a failed rear wheel bearing, repair it with the new procedure and check the condition of the remaining side. Replace only if needed. The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box. quote from endwrench SEA#3

There is an update for the wheel bearings and couple of precoutions , info at endwrench http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf The one thing they dont mention is the seal surface area on the outer c/v , if it is rusted at the seal surface , this can cause water to get into the wheel bearing and cause a failure hope that helps SEA#3

Check the engine connector on the right hand side of the engine , the one that goes to the right shock tower , Check it for any corrosion ,also check the terminals Hope that helps SEA#3

Try this on a cold engine .. Back off the ofending plug just enough to unseat it , then get some penetrating oil and fill the plug hole with oil just to the base of the plug .Let it sit for about an hour , SLOWLY try and move the plug in and out to work the oil in then GENTLY try and remove the plug NOTE: Crank the engine over with the plugs out so that you don't hydraulic the engine with the penetrating oil Hope this helps SEA#3

You haven't said what type of engine it is 2.2 or 2.5 and what year SEA#3

This might explain things http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/19994EATInfo.pdf SEA#3

Try this link http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=327 It's a technical service bulletin SEA#3

You should have 12v with the igntion ON at one terminal (possible yellow wire) and the other should have a ON /OFFground signal (possible blue/white wire) with engine running The (yellow )power wire comes from the ECM and splits off in 4 direction just under the intake manifold in the wiring harness , if you have power in the other 3 you may want to back probe the #3 wire further back up the harness and see if you have a break in the wire Hope that helps SEA#3

What year and model are we talking about?? SEA#3

Maybe the exhaust valve is open on #1 when you are doing the leak down test on #3 ??? So the air bypassing the #3 exhaust valve ( probably burnt) is going down the exhaust pipe and back into the #1 cylinder through the open exhaust valve Sea#3

Welcome to the board !!! You have knocked off the hose from the air filter tube to the IAC valve , you will have to look underneath the tube that run between the air flow meter and the throttle body and reinstall it SEA#3

You just can't just put it on and not set it up or you'll get what you got Try this web site and try the set up procedure on the 2000 Legacy Although the pin out at the ECM will not be the same ,you can try back probing at the TPS to get the voltage http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ SEA#3