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Check the gap between the rotor and the backing plate it's probably close or touching SEA#3

If you pull your starter out and look at the space between the bell housing and the torque converter it should be about 3/16" space between the two if it's any larger than that the converter is not installed corectly . If it is ok then you should check the locating dowels on the trany and the engine you may have too many in place ??? ( extra from either the original engine or the replacment) it may twist and the bind the engine/ torque converter when tighten The small wire you are looking for on the starter will be hanging off the firewall about mid way down just right of the brake booster SEA#3

Get your alternator checked out , also it may qualify for a recall on the alternator SEA#3

PO325 = Knock sensor code - probably needs a new sensor PO335= Crankshaft position sensor - probably needs a new sensor SEA#3

Try replacing the front A/F sensor (02 Sensor) first. It is situated just below and back of the right front inner c/v joint They are notorious for lying to the ECM and not throwing a code , as well as causing other codes to be triggered Whether this is your problem it's tough to tell You can tell if the front A/F sensor is "Lying" if you have a scan tool and you monitor the front a/f sensor and the rear 02 sensor, which your dealer should be able to do !!! SEA#3

If you have repalced the speed sensor and the cluster , most likely it's in the wiring harness What is probably happening is the harness is shorting to ground and cutting out the speed signal Checking for continuity through the wire may check out ok , but the next thing to do is to check if that wire is grounded SEA#3

Thet can be a B**ch You can try using a impact driver and a twist socket -like http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65939&group_ID=11664&store=canada&dir=catalog They are a special bolt and i'm not sure if you can get them seperatly ,so be careful SEA#3

What code is coming up ? SEA#3

Mosy likely it's the ABS relay stuck on , if you remove the phillips screw on the black cover you should see two relays pull a relay till the noise stops, that would be the one SEA#3

Before you try and drill them out , Try using Visegrips on the out side edge of the screws . You have nothing to loose if you damage them ,If the threads are stuck and you try and drill them out you still have to get he threaded bits out , always a dicey job SEA#3

Try cleaning you throttle body and throttle valve with some spray carb cleaner . Also spray some through the IAC valve they are known to whistle on early model Legacy SEA#3

R-12 fitting are screw on fitting and if it been converted to 134a there are quick disconnect style fitting on it (Usually) You may want to look around for any retro fit stickers SEA#3

Beezer Try putting an ignition relay in it , the relay has 2 sets of contacts in it that supply voltage to the ECM at two points . Sometimes one set of contacts stays open ,which can cause your codes to trigger .This is why if after you start the car and it runs bad ,then you shut it off and restart it , it reactivates the relay and gets a better contact You can find the relay on the left hand side of the dash just above the inside fuses box(it is a PITA to get to) It is a brown square relay with a brown connector SEA#3

You may be on your way to a trany o/haul , The forward clutch pack o-rings are probably worn out or have shrunk SEA#3

Your TCM (Transmission Control Module ) has a stored code in it . The easiest way is to use a Select Monitor Scan Tool to access the codes SEA#3

Nope ,it doesn't have an enertia switch . Check the fuses and the wiring might have got damage in the acident SEA#3

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Yes you have to remove the cams to access the head bolts . it would be wise to resurface the heads and check the valve clearence SEA#3

Get them to check the valve lash clearence , it is probably closing up and holding the valve open when it is cold . It is a scheduled check at about your mileage SEA#3

If it's a automatic? It's NORMAL , what you are hearing is the selionoid in the trany for the oil pump . SEA#3

There are two , there is one just where the two pipes come together , just below the right side axle shaft and the second one is just behind the rear trany mount SEA#3

Try this site to read codes and then tell us what code you have http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ SEA#3

Not the same year but the same trany. Try this http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/Subaru_Service_Bulletins/1991/4EAT_FWD_and_4WD_Brake_Band_Adjustment_On_Car_Servicing.pdf SEA#3

Nope you just need to plug in a scan tool and read the codes SEA#3

The bolt size is 6mm(dia) x 1.0 mm(pitch)x 10mm (long) As far as where to buy them i would suggest the dealer, since they coudd get the right ones for that application SEA#3