sea#3

If you have a sunroof leak ,your more than likley going to have to pull the sunroof mechanism out and resal it But before you do that you can check the drains first by taking a 1 gal size jug full of water , opening your sun roof all the way and pouring the water by the corner of each side at the front of the sun roof ,slowly it will fil up fast ,also make sure your on the out side of the sunroof guide /rail The water should come out just behind the front wheels and the rear of the rear wheels . The tubes for the drain run down the front "A" pillars (front) and down the "D" pillars (rear) The exit through each wheel arch just under the inner fender liner The gasket you are looking for is actually a Butyl sealer (black) simalar to what they use to seal windsheilds with. The sealer is just under the guide/rail and the frame that mounts to the body What happens is the sealer dries out and cracks and lets the water from the outside of the guide/rail into the inner part of the sunroof on to the sun shade and down the back of your neck when you hit the brakes or round a corner hope this helps SEA#3

Ok here is a possible answer to all your problems There is a main relay located just above in a hell and gone location just above the interior fuse box . Brown relay with a brown connector ( says JIDTCO on it and a part # ) If you pull the knee pad off you can just see it on the far left way at the back What is happening is the contacts in the relay go bad and cause resistance in the circuit that cause a voltage drop to the computer , which can not compensate for the drop What usually happen is what you descibe , loss of power, check engine light on (not always) , pull off to the side of the road ,shut engine off restart and runs fine for either a short time or for months before it happens again The relay is cheep( approx 25$) compared to changing MAF For the price and maybe some skinned knuckles ( and may be a lot of swearing) Give it a try I have fixed 3 cars this way SEA#3

Legacy 2.5 I just went to the photo gallery site and saw your ride ( very nice) I noticed the mags and had a thought . I have come across where the mag doesn't seat properly to the mounting surface of the hub and cause a creeking /binding noise just wondering if you still have the stockers ,throw them on and see Diagnosing a noise at the best of time when you have the car can be frustrating Hope your level of frustration isn't elevated by all these sugestion SEA#3

From what you desrcibe ( and i have come across this before ) if there is a slight run out on the rotor or the hub and pads push back and forth in the caliper holder .You won't necesarily get any brake vibration at higher speed . Maybe check the run out . What type of lube did you use on the pins and the retainer clips ? I pefer using Sil-glyde. Also did you lube the contact points where the pads contact the retaier clips ? Did you orient the guide pins correctly Top one - solid Bottom one - Black nylon bushing on the end From your description it sounds like it in the brakes

A couple of questions 1) Did the noise start before or after the replacment of the pads , rotors and hardwear ? 2) Can you duplicate the noise with out using the brakes? ( such as down shifting the trany to put a load on the axles ) Waiting for your anwswer SEA#3

Do the o-ring thing first ! It is the o-ring 99 % of the time on the base of the reservoir If you get the o-ring from the dealership they may want to sell you 2 o-rings there is a TSB on this Put both in SEA#3

crauch There is a recall on the Air Flow Sensor on your vehicle, you should check with the dealer . There may be an ECM update as well Get your VIN # and phone it in SEA#3

Mikeintenn Your drop resistor has popped the breaker that is inside your drop resistor ( it has desoldered it's self) It is located in the heater housing behind the glove box ( white 4 terminal connector) pull it out and carefully pry between the white plastic peice that the connector plugs into and the partical board that is attached to the square cage . Once you have the white plastic peice off , straighten out the tabs that are bent over , pry the partical board off the cage . The resistor will come with the partical board , there should be a peice of solder floating around in the cage . You should see a loop on the resistor that is the breaker it should be lifted off of where it should be soldered. Just solder it back on NOTE: if it pops again you may have a problem with you blower motor drawing to much current SEA#3

You don't say whether it's an automatic or standard I suspect you have a starter that is for the opposite of the type of tranny you have SEA#3

If your doing the head gaskets , i would suggest you pull the motor out, it makes it so much easier to do the head gaskets than in the car and when it is out replace the (black) oil separator plate with the updated aluminum plate. Also replace the rear main seal would be a good idea SEA#3

You can try and do the flush trick , but if that doesn't work you probably have some silicone sealant stuck in one of the rocker shaft oil delivery holes 1) detremine which side it is and which rocker Then pull the rocker shaft assemble off . If it's the left bank making noise (drivers) take off the front tower pedestal from the shaft, if it's the right side (passenger)take off the rear tower pedestal.Look at the metering oil hole on the shaft there is usually a piece of silicone stuck in the hole 2).If not there go to the affected rocker , see if there is any oil present coming out of the hole at the end of the rocker when you push down on the valve lash adjuster ( which should be soft and spongy) You can also "gently" pull the valve lash adjuster out of the rocker with some pliers and clean out the passage in the rocker 3) reassemble every thing and start engine and keep it at aprox 2000 rpm NOTE : It may take 10-20 minutes to bleed the air out of the valve lash adjuster , some times running for 5-10 minutes then shutting the engine off let it sit 5 minutes and restarting it purges the air faster hope that helps SEA#3

Check the under hood fuse box by the battery SEA#3

Check the "dog bone " that goes from the firewall to the top of the trany Bet ya the bolts are loose SEA#3

There is a TSB on endwrench.com that should rectify your problem (i think someone else has suggested this ) It involves replacing the slave cylinder and the the hose that attaches to the slave cylinder SEA#3

Ratpeters Aprox $500.00 labour plus parts and taxes SEA#3

If you pop the hood open and look past the left /rear of the alternator you should see a casting identifing the engine size on the block EJ18 - 1800cc EJ22 - 2200 cc EJ25 - 2500 cc SEA#3

CherylP If they have checked everything and it checks out ok . Then it may be a fasle indication by the ECM , there is an updated ECM for early production 2002 WRX for false missfire codes Get the dealer to check with SOA SEA#3

Happyhighguy Have you replaced any front axle shafts latley ? If you have , it maybe a dry inner wheel bearing seal . Try lubing the inner seals with a spray grease SEA#3

terryb52 How many miles on it ? SEA#3

pinecone45 First what is the producion date on your car , you can find it on the B-pillar ,drivers side at the bottom of the door jam If it was built between Feb /1999 and Jun 2000 there is a difference between AT and MT engines on the cam sprocket AT # 13019AA09B Cam sprocket MT # 13019AA10B Cam sprocket There is also a difference on the crank sprocket as well AT # 13021AA16A Crank sprocket MT # 13021AA17A Crank sprocket As far as the engine you have in there now and when it was built is another story What i would suggest is you take your VIN # in to your dealer and they can tell you if these are valid for your original engine( because there is overlap from Feb 2000 on where the cam gear does go to #13019AA09B for both AT and MT) SEA#3

Ratpeters THAWA is correct the tube that is leaking is #11 on the site below It means your going to have to pull the trany and pull the Torque Converter Case off and repace the tube and some seals SEA#3 [email=http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1445]http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1445[/email]

pinecone45 The A/T engine do use a different cam gear than a M/T engine Also the crank gears (reluctor) is also different between engines This is where you may be having some conflict with erroneous codes and the NO START situation What I suggest is that you put everything back that was originally from the original motor (cam gear, crank gear. Intake manifold and engine wiring harness) SEA#3

therealciviczc Look on AVK's attacment #8 is the clip that holds that tube to the torque converter , make sure that is secure . It should lock into position .The tube drives the oil pump . # 10 is a square cut seal make sure it has not folded over or is pinched (which is highly possible ) Also make sure the input shaft #20 is all the way in When you get everything together the torque converter should almost touch the bell housing ( which i'm sure you already know) it should sit approx 3-5mm away from the bell housing SEA#3

ferret There is only one cam sensor and that is on the left (drivers side) intake cam #1 spark plug is on the passenger side front cylinder there is no cam sensor on that side The cam sensor generates it's own voltage which is read by the computer as a signalSEA#3

pinecone45 Has the timing belt been replaced? Or has it maybe "jumped" Check the valve timing SEA#3