sea#3

You might want to have a look at your air flow meter. some times the "hot wire" in the air flow meter can get covered with oil residue and give a false signal to the ECM , which can give you a false trim code You can try and clean it with isoproply alcohol , but be warned it doesn't take much to damage the wire and Air flow meters aren't cheep!!! SEA#3

Like SevenSisters and Legacy 777 have pointed out checking for power at the pump would be a good start and work your way back to the relay ,then check for the signal from the ECM You may want to check the connector for the fuel pump which is under the rear seat lower cushion (on the passenger side ) there is a connector there (that for some reason on turbo's) tend to burn and cause an open circuit Hope this helps SEA#3

I believe you will find it in the right rear quarter panel area underneath the trim panel ,posible attached to the rear srtut tower or just behind where the compartment is on the right side trim Hope that helps SEA#3

Why don't you use it to your advantage and phone them up and ask the salesman if they had done a serive on it before you bought it and if so why wasn't it recorded . If they didn't do a service before you bought it see if you can get something out of them (at least an oil change ) You have to at least contact them to let them know as well , so that they can up date the file or correct there mistake SEA#3

There are 4 gasket and 6 grommets per side , But if it is leaking it may still be under your drive train warranty SEA#3

There is a drain in the rear quarters that can plug up , It some time can get partialy get covered by undercoat then eventually plug up . If you take the trim panel off were the compartment is you can access it easier . You can also see it from below , between the carbon canister and the bottom of the inner wheel well It"s going take some searching because it probably hidden under dirt or undercoat Hope this helps SEA#3

Try holding it down for a few seconds on the second push SEA#3

Crap in fuel line jammed injector open and then it leaked gas into #1 cylinder . When you started it again that cylinder hydrauliced and bent the rod ,which caused the piston to come into contact with the crank and smashed the piston The fuel in the oil is what made it past the rings Just a guess SEA#3

WOOPS Wrong link try this one http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/2_Engine_Section/2-03a_Engine_(SOHC)/MSA5TCD99L37.pdf SEA#3

Hope this helps http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/2_Engine_Section/2-03a_Engine_(SOHC)/MSA5TCD99L36.pdf SEA#3

I think you might want to have a look at the fuel pump, . Either the hose between the fuel pump and the fuel pump/sender bracket has come apart or the new pump has packed it in As far as the filter if its an OEM it says In and out on the top can't really go wrong there SEA#3

Ihope you don't take this the wrong way but , Is there sufficientt fuel in the car??? Since it"s on a slope ! SEA#3

Check the "Dog bone " thatgoes from he fire wall the transmission , one of the bolts may be loose SEA#3

Recheck your timing marks . I'll bet the one on the crank isn't lined up Look for the mark on the reluctor of the crank gear and line it up on the notch that is just off centre of the crank sensor Whether the cam doesn't "SQUEEK" again I guess you are going to find out and hopefull the bottom end is going to be OK SEA#3

No paint marks at all ? It may be covered by rust or clutch dust SEA#3

The "Zero mark" is just some white paint that is usually on the edge of the flywheel by the ring gear SEA#3

Here is the thread on the relay ttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20291&highlight=sea%233 SEA#3

You can put it on anywhere you want , it is not "keyed" to one spot If it's a standard (which I presume ) when you attach the pressure plate the white marks are align so that they are as far apart as possible (being a OEM pressure plate) SEA#3

The factory uses a spot of weather strip glue to hold them in place 3M weaterstrip glue works SEA#3

You don't say what model Subaru you have . depending on what model it is there may be a recall on it for that code SEA#3

Well it could be : A) the new stat you put in is defective - Doubtful The ECT sensor is lying to the ECM and it's running to rich -possible , but the the dash coolant temp sensor says it's running cold ,(which it is a seperate sensor) which could be lying too -possible but unlikely If it has the original ECT sesor in it you may want too change it and see c) bad engine grounds at the manifold -possible , easy to clean up and check SEA#3

[/color] [color=black]2) When putting in new shims, to double check the clearance, can I just do it with timing belt OFF with values at "zero lift"? [/color] [color=black] Yes you can but I would suggest you only do 1 cam at a time , so that you don't bend any valves ( the intake and exhaust valves will interfere with each other when rotated incorrectly ) Just rotate the cam lobe of each valve you are measuring at the time and position it at the "zero lift" position 3) My question is on replacement shims. For example, if intake value is at .006 inch(.008 inch is recommended clearance ) and current shim size is 2.55mm, what new shim size I should get? In theory .006 inch could mean that I am off by anywhere from .03 to .05 mm. Should I get a 2.55 - .03 = 2.52mm or 2.55 - .05 = 2.50 mm shim? I am leaning towards 2.50, since valve clearances reduce with time. So if I overshoot by 2mm, it will reduce over time... If you look on the hood of the car there should be a placard that gives you a range for valve clearances . Ideally you want to shoot for the mid range clearance [/color] [color=black]So if I overshoot by 2mm, it will reduce over time...[/color] [color=black] I hope you mean 0.02mm . I think that would be within the range 4) Measuring shims - on most of them I can read numbers on current size, shim size doesn't change with age, do they? Do I need to remeasure them? i wouldn't go by what’s on the shim because they do wear down . If you do everything within spec you shouldn't have to touch the valves for 100.000 miles 5 ) Can shims be ground down with sandpaper or other thing to reduce their current thickness? So can I convert 2.55 to 2.50 somehow? Local dealer wants 10 bucks for each! They are 4.60 at 1stsubaru, but I would have to wait a week! Don't sand them, bite the bullet and get it right the first time . Don't want to burn a valve and do it all over again SEA#3

Chip It is located in the left front fender , you access it through/ under the inner fender liner . It is just behind the left head light assembly SEA#3

It's just above the starter on the top edge of the block SEA#3

The geared idler is attached to the water pump , Yes you will have to replace the waterpump , geared idler and maybe the T-belt if it was damaged (you may want to check the other idlers) It is a non interference engine , so if the belt breaks or the idler lets go , no damage will occur at the valves Stick the new parts in and if it's assembled correctly everything should last another 100k SEA#3