sea#3

Do you have spark?? If not it may be a crank sensor or cam sensor . The best way is to read the codes first and it maybe one of those two . The next thing it may be is a coolant temp sensor going open . but ussually you can start the car by holding the throttle to the floor and crank to put it into a clear flood mode SEA#3

Check the seperator plate at the back of the block (black plastic ) just under the flywheel .If it is black update it to an aluminium plate SEA#3

Since you can't get it out of park and it won't start , you may want to take a look at the inhibitor switch ( prndl switch) Can you start the car in neutral? you will have to access the manual overide on the shifter lockout by removing the black bezel around the shifter and using a scewdriver to push down on the lockout selenoid ( hole at top right of shifter area) and pop it into neutral ,if it starts have a look at the inhibitor switch SEA#3

Yes they are totaly different because of the way they operate ,size ,clutch thickness and pressure plate SEA#3

The center ring is about 3 thousandths of an inch deep or so. Even though the bearing shows no wear, I did have some transfer case work done at 15k where I experienced the transfer clutch binding issue. However, I don't believe they did anything with the thrust bearing and such I think(if my memory serves me right)they left out one side of the timken thrust bearing , it usually has two thrust plates on either side of the bearing and does not run directly on the gear it self, you may want to research that a little The other issue with the RG is that there are grooves notched out on the side of the basket. These are due to the clutch discs pushing into the clutch basket. A picture of the clutch discs shows where the discs were moving off of center. Notice the clutch wear outside on the outer disc and the wear inside on the inner disc. Apparently the discs were running about 1/16" off-center; bad. The grooves are about 1/32" deep and I was thinking about filing the burrs off and reinstalling it. Yup that's not good The wierd thing is that these worn outer (left) discs actually "shrank" (or otherwise morphed) in diameter about 1/16" and do not easily slip back over the basket. These had to be pounded off. To say the least these clutches are "fubar"ed . You may have a bigger issue with the duty selenoid and / or mismatched tires Let me know if you would replace the Reduction Gear or not. I appreciate your reading all the way through this over-analysis. Yup time to replace and make sure it gets set up properly Thanks in advance. Peace, Richard SEA#3

That's OK everyone does that once in a while !!! It may be time for a clutch job if that's the case , there is an adjustment on the cable , which should be checked every 6000 km or 4000 miles . But if that hasn't been done odds are it's "clutch job time " SEA#3

You should check your trany fluid level , driving 30 miles even with the spare on should not affect the way the trany drives the car ,the most it may affect is the AWD system Why do you think the rear diff is gone? SEA#3

Standard or automatic? How far did you drive it with the spare? SEA#3

Nope different gear ratios in the diff SEA#3

You probably have heard "piston slap" with the H4 , but piston slap isn't an issue for the H6 . They have a different bore and stroke configuration ,which is why they don't tend to do the piston slap noise SEA#3

By an chance were you cleaning your car?????? You have accidently switched the parking lights on , the switch is on the centre steering wheel console between the turn signal switch and the wiper switch Just flip it the other way SEA#3

Code 22 is knock sensor , code 14 is clutch start switch code The gas coming out of your tail pipe is not good !!!( to say the least) You may have damaged the o-ring that seal around the injector and now it is just pouring into the cylinder . Which is bad , it can cause the engine to hydraulic and you end up bending connecting rods / engine rebuild . Needless to say you should address the problem right away . Before you start it next time you should hand roll the engine over and if it doesn't move pull the plugs out and try rolling it over SEA#3

Was it a Catalytic type gas heater , if so there may have been not enough oxygen ? SEA#3

To answer your question on the baffle Yes they updated the baffle ( which is call a separator plate , it is part of the PCV system )from the black fenolic plastic to an aluminum one . I doubt that you will get any reimbursment , since the work was not done at the dealership SEA#3

Give this a try hit the disarm button , open the drivers door ,then hold the disarm button down for a few seconds . Now see if the light has stopped flashing . If it has then it was in VALET mode . If not then there maybe a problem SEA#3

It is normal and they don't have roll pins You could try lubing the two guide plates that are on either side of the rear hatch (two black plastic peices ) with some spray grease Also check the hatch it self it could be closing properly but could be loose SEA#3

Check the inner C/V 's on the trany they are probably leaking grease on to the exhaust . There is an updated grease that goes in the C/V's , they need to be pulled out cleaned and repacked SEA#3

If you look just behind the alternator ,right beside the oil pressure switch you will find the casting of what size engine it is SEA#3

99 legacy 2.5 GT LTD Before you go spending any money has the shop : 1) repaired the speed sensor ? 2) Cleared the codes in the ECM ? 3) Cleared any codes in the TCM ? You have to do all 3 and the best way to do the last two is with the proper scan tool If the codes are not cleared it will stay in a default mode and maybe causing your hard shift SEA#3

I would be a little worried that there is probably some damage as a result of the low fluid and driving the vehichle . Normaly it take 4 litres (4 US quarts ) to fill to the proper level after draining the pan That should have been the first thing they checked when you brought it back the first time By any chance is this "garage " one of those LUBE places? SEA#3

Let me guess the pads you have in your car are RAYBESTOS pads (red backings) ? The red paint they cover them with extends to the edge of the pads . After they seat in a bit that paint lifts and acts like a brake detector and causes your noise . What you can do is TRY and camphor the edges of the pads ,but this is only a temporary fix because the pad wear back down to the paint again and it starts all over This is only a guess SEA#3

Check your left/right outer brake light bulb , if you look close you will probably see that the filaments inside the bulb are melted down , so that the brake light curcuit is shorted to the park light circuit SEA#3

That depends on the experience of the "regular garage " . In general terms it is a moderately easy job if done right . There are some things that are "quirky about subaru's and if they are not familar with them it may cost you money down the road SEA#3

aproxx 4.5 hours labour and 50.00 parts, usually pull the trany , if it's a standard you may want to do the clutch Sea#3

More than likely it is the seperator plate on the back of the engine . There is sealant on it that degrades with time and also there is an updated seperator plate aswell (black pastic to aluminium ) Sea#3