sea#3

This may help you , see attached SEA#3 Handle removal.doc handle removal 2.doc

Have you measured all your tires circumferences ? http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/SuggestedInfo.pdf They must be the same make/size and tread design aswell SEA#3

You might want to check that you have the pulleys on the correct cam shaft . The left cam sprocket has bumps on the inside edge for the cam sensor , they should be marked left and right But It's like john in KY says check your t-marks again- see attatched T-belt marks.doc

C: ADJUSTMENT 1. HEADLIGHT NOTE: As this headlight is the “VISUAL AIMING TYPE”, it is possible to adjust aiming only in the vertical direction. It cannot be adjusted in the horizontal direction Can only adjust up and down Hope this helps SEA#3

You have to pop the defroster grill (by windsheild ) and take out the two bolts that hold the dash to the firewall Hope this helps SEA#3

DTC P0440 — EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Gasoline smell There is a hole of more than 1.0 mm (0.04 in) dia. in evaporation system or fuel tank. DTC P0446 — EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM VENT CONTROL LOW INPUT DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fau I would check the the vent valve connector first there maybe corrosion at the connector causing it not to operate and trip the P0440 code The vent valve is under the lower right rear quarter panel , just above the carbon canister (black box ) For the leak you will want to check the gas cap for proper seal on the fill tube ,also check the carbon canister for any damage . Sometimes if you back into a snow pile that is iced up and crack the canister which causes a leak Hope this helps SEA#3 (PS the car is a manual transmission , right? )

You don't say what model and year ?????? SEA#3

See Attached You want to look at the stop for the brake light switch stop/ button(#5) , It most likely has a hole worn in the centrer of it , so the switch is never pushed to the off position Hope this helps SEA#3 Brake pedal.doc

This might help http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2002.htm SEA#3

Bad engine grounds, the one to the starter , thetwo on the intake manifold . Check them out SEA#3

Check this site out http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive98_99.html SEA#3

You might want to check out e-bay for the remote The programing instructions are in the owners manual SEA#3

Yup 2000-2001 Forester S ,then they don't show in the manuals till 05 .but that doesn't mean they didnt have them in between those years SEA#3

Cam sensor is used for ignition and fuel injection timing Crank sensor is used for proper dwell and timing advance See Attached http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=196 SEA#3

Try this site http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=445 SEA#3

Click on the link http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/leaktst.htm The reason the engine doesn't overheat when you gut the thermosats is you don't give the air a chance to get trapped in the top cross over pipe ,which goes into the heater core which eventualy goes back to the pump and causes an air lock in pump/cooling system SEA#3

It's the head gaskets With the rad cap off and fill the radiator to the top of the neck then do a leak down test on the engine If the coolant level starts rising the head gaskets are gone SEA#3

There is an updated bearing for your model that goes from a roller bearing style to a tapered roller style bearing There are a couple of thing you have to watch out for 1) Rust on the seal surface of the outer c/v, if it's got rust pits in the seal surface it will allow water to get into the bearing and cause it to fail 2) Roundness of the spindle bore, must be true/round so that it doesn't deform the outer part of the bearing 3) Replacing the bearing with a good wheel bearing grease (like hohieu said) is very necessary, the factory grease sucks SEA#3

Yes you should check the new(used ) head aswell , but the real issue is there any more stuff in the engine? If you don'tget it all out this may happen again SEA#3

The difff with the fins was probably a 99 model . see attached Top diagram is up to 98 Lower diagram is 99 and newer SEA#3 diff 98.doc 99 and up.doc

The Valeo clutch was OEM on your car . But just like wondercow2 says they tend to chatter when cold and some time always . Subaru went to an EXEDY/DAKIN clutch to get away from the chatter problem , to answer your question is it a good price ..Yup <br> SEA#3

The first thing you should look at is see if there are any stored codes in the TCM There is a possiblity that the Inhibitor swtich is defective .That it is going open when HOT The reverse lights go through the same switch Do the lights on the clusterever light up when the trany behaves normaly? The bulbs in the cluster should be LED's . So if they are burnt you will have to replace the Cluster assembly . SEA#3

Yes I agree warm is best but not always a option , but more important is either you crank the engine over with the injectors disconnected or you use a "bump" starter switch off the starter so that you don't pump fuel into the cylinder , which will give you faults readings SEA#3