nickolai

Some info on the engine: It's from an 82 GL wagon. It's currently completely disassembled, and just about ready for me to start putting it back together, but I've got some questions so here goes: 1. So the metal EGR hose that goes between the head and the intake manifold has been cut and crimped before I got it. I would assume this renders the EGR system useless. So can I take off the EGR valve and make a plate to cover the hole? Is it worth the work? 2. I'm toying with the idea of swapping out the intake manifold for an ea82 carby one. Is it pretty much plug and play? 3. Is there any other junk I can eliminate from the carb? I don't have to worry about emissions - I'm looking to get the best mpg possible. 4. What is the best way to get the oil pickup tube to come out of the block? 5. I'm also putting a 5spd in the car. I've read mentions of Jerry's kit. What does it consist of? Is it essential for the swap or does it just make it easier? 6. I don't know what to call it, but on my 5spd tranny the place where the shifter anchors (at the bottom of the stick) is pretty worn out. Is there a place to get new parts for this? Thanks for any help, I may have more questions as things progress, but this is all I can think of right now.

My 88 DL was doing exactly what you describe here. Luckily I had a parts car with a good rear drive line in it so I just swapped it out, and all the shaking went away. It doesn't seem to have harmed anything else, and I probly put over 100 miles on it while the shaking was bad. Being in 2wd/4wd has little effect because the rear drive line always turns when the car is moving. Even in 2wd it's being turned by the back wheels. The only disconnect is inside the tranny.

Bad U-joints can make it feel like the whole car is falling apart. Replacing them will have a dramatic impact on shaking. I can't say for sure but I bet this is your whole problem.

Thanks for the info ferox. Here's a pic of the hose that goes to the drivers side valve cover. After reading that thread it looks like a simple T fitting would work in my case because of the shape of the hose. The problem is this hose is quite rigid and insists upon pointing in front of the carb. Is it okay if I lengthen it and wrap it back around to line up with the hole in the carb, or should I do away with it and hook up a smaller hose that then goes to one of those mismatched T fittings?

I would say try it as long as you've got a fuel return line to the tank. I had the same issue in my 88 DL where the fuel pump was getting no power. I ran a new wire to it that turns hot when the key in ON and haven't had trouble. First I had a carbed ea81, and now an ea82 w/SPFI in the car. No trouble with either - I do have a return line.

Sounds like the temp sensor switch to me. Sorry I don't know where it is on a Legacy. If it has 2 wires it should be a switch for the + side of the fan. Test both wires for +12v with key ON, one should be hot, and the fans should run when the other is given juice. If it has 1 wire, it is a switch for the - side of the fan, and it grounds the wire when the fan should run. Test the fans by grounding the wire with the key ON.

Haha I like your style! Good to hear someone has had better luck with the ea82 than I have. I just did head gaskets last summer and they are blown again already. Probly had somethin to do with that cheap thermostat...

Hey thanks for the info on the pump flange. Could you give me a link or point me toward your older threads a little better? I tried searching your name for "PCV" and it said it was too short, too long, or too common. Searching for Weber brought up many many results...If there's a better way search I'm ready to be enlightened!

Bump! Anyone?

Hi, welcome to the board. I have an 88 DL which is very similar to the Loyale - same body style, but less options and gadgets, which I like because it makes the car that much lighter and I don't have to deal with slow power windows or auto seat belts etc. Getting dual range 4x4 is good but (here in the U.S. at least) all the Loyales came with single range push-button 4x4, as did the DLs. Dual range in a Loyale body style came in the 85 to 89 GLs. I would avoid the ea82, and shun the ea82T like the plague! The ea82 is prone to head gasket failure, and turbo charging just makes it worse. If I were you I'd try to get a GL with an ea82 SPFI - not carb. Then look around for a good ea81 and swap it in. They are much more reliable, simpler, and they are both 1800cc. Ditch the carb on the ea81, and put the SPFI system from the ea82 on it, and you've got a pretty sweet car! As far as the rest of the car goes, they are pretty solid. My DL has almost 250k miles on it and it's still goin strong except for recent head gasket issues with the ea82. :-\ I'm hoping to get an ea81 in it soon. My DL gets around 25 mpg. I've heard of them getting into the low 30s per gallon. Hope this helps, Cheers!

What year GL is the radiator from?

Does anyone know if there are straight cut gears in the transfer case? If so they could cause a rumble couldn't they?

OK lets get something out of the way first: You are not driving freeway speeds in 4wd on dry pavement are you? Cause that could be your problem right there. There is no differential between front and rear axles so 4x4 is only meant to be used when wheel slippage is likely.

the rear driveline from an 82 GL wagon will fit on a 79 wagon? It looks like the U-joints are goin bad. Thanks.

Check the U-joints in the rear driveline. I have had this kind of thing happen twice, both due to bad U-joints.

Thanks. As long as you are upgrading from a carb and not spfi, and you can deal with the glitches in quality, I'm confident you won't be disappointed. I didn't see anything for Subaru...lots of others though... Thanks! Exactly the kind of info I'm lookin for. I kind of had the idea in mind for the T fitting...not sure where to find one. Napa? It seems the vac advance for the disty does not go to the carb - I guess it just goes to the intake manifold. And I think the heater is all manual. So I get to just plug them all! MUAHAHAHA! Were they the DGEV series? Got any pics?

I just bought one of those $319 kits from "theimportexperts" on ebay. You might find my current thread interesting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120431

The negative cable needs to ground somewhere on the engine. Close to the starter is good. It really doesn't make a whole lot of difference where it's connected, but like I said, close the the starter, because that's where most of the juice from that cable will be going anyway.

Well I finally got it installed! When I pulled the old carb off the gasket was still in good shape, so I just used it instead of trying to make the defective one work. The air hole in the adapter plate didn't quite line up with the intake manifold, but at least the bolt holes did. I used very little of the linkage adapter kit, which was mostly all wrong, but I was able to modify the stock location to work. I did this: Instead of this, which wouldn't even attach to the cable and also raised it into space reserved for the spare tire: I plugged all the vacuum hoses just for a test run and fired it up. I am very pleased with its actual on-car performance. The engine went from hard to start, sputtery, and anemic to starts right up and purrs! It's like having a new engine. I still have yet to hook up hoses as all I did was plug them all. The instructions, (mostly useless) don't mention what to do with the myriad of hoses left over, or how to connect the two crankcase vents to the one hole they give you. I can probably figure something out, but any pics or ideas are appreciated. I mostly just need to know if there are any of those vacuum lines that need to go somewhere instead of being plugged. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies and the info guys. It's not that the problems are insurmountable, but if quality is so lacking with simple drilled holes, how well can I expect the whole unit to be built? It does seem like it is mostly the adapter kit and related hardware that are low quality - maybe the carb itself is made better? I have contacted the seller and he has agreed to replace the defective parts, so that is a plus. I just hope the carb performs a little better than the quality I've seen so far. I'm still worried about the place for a second accelerator pump. Is that hole plugged further in where I can't see, or should i cover it with some sort of plate?

You might try getting a repair manual, Chilton, or Haynes. They have pretty good step by step instructions for most repair procedures. If you want I could scan the pages dealing with head gaskets and email them to you.

I was pretty sure that's what it's for, but if that's the case doesn't that hole actually go somewhere? That's what I'm thinkin...

Are you sure? It's distributed through Redline like the article you posted says the genuine ones are. It also says "made in Spain" right on it. Maybe it is the Redline kit that is cheap? Most of the defects I found were in the adapter kit and airbox kit. Plus the choke wasn't screwed down tight, but I think that is independent of the carb itself because there are three choices for what kind of choke you want. The only thing that worries me on the carb itself is the open area in the last pic.

Sometimes they can get really rusted on there. I had to deal with this a month or so ago. I sprayed some wd40 on the axle splines and used a copper and hammer to finally bang the drum off. Don't stay in one place too long, keep moving or rotating the drum till it works free. If it's anything like what I dealt with you will probably be hammering on it a while, then decide it's never gonna work, then keep hammering just for the heck of it, and it will finally move. DON'T bang on the drum without a copper or equivalent! Someone else may have a better solution, but this was the best I could think of. Good luck!

Thanks I may need some help depending on how installation goes, I'll hit you up if I need some pics.