nickolai

I am getting it too, sort of at random times. If I just keep going back and clicking the link again it eventually works. It would be nice to figure out whats going on. Only on USMB for me too.

So the Weber for the 79 wagon ea71 just came in the mail today and I am rather disappointed with it's quality. Everything looks to be made of poor quality metal, there are things that don't line up, etc...Here are a few pics. I was hoping maybe someone could tell me if this is the standard of quality accepted with these carbs. It is a Redline kit from ebay, here is the link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1976-1989-1600-1800-OHV-EA71-81-Weber-Carb-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem5aded1c982QQitemZ390285347202QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories This is the adapter to the intake manifold and as you can see the holes on the gasket don't line up. Here is an air cleaner clip that isn't crimped right so it is basically useless unless modified. I'm assuming this black piece is supposed to go through this hole and hook to a hose? But it doesn't quite fit. This is part of the air box. Is this supposed to be left open like this? There is an accelerator pump on the other side of the carb, but I'm worried about the hole at the right edge of the circle. There are other little problems too like tarnished metal in the air box and the air filter is bent, but I don't want to post too many pics. Please help me out with info if you have any, Thanks.

Doing head gaskets on an ea82 isn't very hard if you've got some basic tools and a repair manual. You'll will probably want to do timing belts at the same time. One other thing you might try is a product called Block Seal. It comes in an orange can and you can get it at Walmart. Basically you mix it up with some water, run it through the radiator following all the directions on the can, and it's supposed to seal any holes in the head gasket or head. I have used it in an ea82 and it worked good although I was only able to test it for about 50 miles because I promptly ran my car into a tree after getting it back on the road. The wreck damaged the engine so I pulled it out and decided to do a complete reseal and replace the broken cam tower, and its been running good ever since so I don't think it's possible to damage the engine with the Block Seal.

So I went out and checked the inner tie rods today, and I don't know if I was on crack the last time I checked them or what, but they seem to be in great shape - no play whatsoever. The hubs were rocking a little on the spindles, but the spindles were good and tight. I guess the next step is to pull out the cvs and see if one is stiff and check the wheel bearings.

Looks to me like it would work as long as you've got a plan for connecting it to a slide hammer. Price isn't too bad...

I used a long bolt screwed directly to a slide hammer. It worked much better than the cheapo pin remover tool I tried first (and broke). Try to get the head of the bolt as big as possible but so it will still fit in the pin. Stick it all the way through the pin and hook it on the back of it and pound away on the slide hammer. I found that after 2 or 3 pins the head of the bolt was getting worn to the point that it would just slip off and I couldn't move the pin. If this happens try putting a washer on the bolt to give it a new edge. Good luck! -Nick

Thanks for the link. Now to prod my dad into spending the money! (It's his car so that shouldn't be to awfully hard!)

I don't know about up and down play, I will go take a look tomorrow. Are the bushings your talking about included with the tie rods in the link?

When I get above 50mph in my 82 GL wagon, the steering wheel and the whole car begin to shake. The outer tie rods appear to be in good condition, and I just replaced the ball joints on both sides. I tried a separate set of tires because I thought they might be out of balance, but no luck. With the car jacked up, I can move the tires back and forth a little, and determined it was the inner tie rods that are loose. My questions are these: Will replacing the inner tie rods tighten them up, or does the whole steering rack need replaced? Does this look like a decent product, and is it all I need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-87-88-89-Subaru-1600-1800-Brat-Inner-Tie-Rod-End-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d2Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d7046869206510966998QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQcategoryZ33593QQitemZ220481341306 I've also heard of a bad or stiff cv joint causing shaking problems. Is there any best way to test if this is the case? (The engine is out of the car at the moment so anything that involves driving it is not really feasible.) Thanks, -Nick

I agree it's a nice looking sedan. Too bad it's got an ea82. I don't know much about how to maybe make the oil pump you have work better, but if you bought a new one they're not impossible to install...unless the car has a/c. They're right in the front of the engine so it's nice to be able to remove the radiator to get to it, but if you have a/c its radiator is not removable without losing all your refrigerant. As far as compatibility with the brat engines, those should be ea81s, so the oil pumps are not interchangeable. (ea82 oil pump is timing belt driven while ea81 is camshaft driven) If the spare brat engine you have is good, you could consider just driving your car the way it is till it dies (which will probably take a while) and then swap in the ea81. It will bolt directly to the tranny and car but you might have to get creative in order to keep power steering and a/c as those pumps are different between the two engines. That's assuming your ea81 has those pumps, as a lot of them didn't. You wouldn't have to mess with any wiring because you can take the intake manifold from the ea82, put it on the ea81, and keep the fuel injection that is the best aspect of the ea82. If your gonna go to the trouble of swapping engines though, you might consider just pulling your ea82, putting a new oil pump on it, and dropping it back in. Of course it would only be worth pulling the engine if the car has a/c and you've never replaced one of these oil pumps before. (It can be done with the engine in the car but you can't see a darn thing.)

WOW! That is one heck of a nice car! I'm jealous! I've got an 82 wagon too but its not as nice as yours. How many miles on it? How much did you pay?

Cool! A Subaru powered trike. I like it! +1 on not using the ea82 though. In my experience the ea81 and ea71 are much more reliable. I've read that it's possible to fuel inject these engines using the intake manifold, throttle body, and ecu from an ea82. Others could probably expand more on this if you are interested.

The limiter on size is the depth of the speaker, as the doors are not very wide, especially when you factor in wanting to be able to roll down the windows.

Thank you! I feel much more informed. Now to apply my new-found knowledge...

+ 1 on running your own speaker wires. The stock ones are small and often times it's hard to figure out which one is going where. They're more trouble than they're worth. When I installed my stereo, I was fortunate enough to have tons of wire from an old Dodge Colt that I stripped. I made 4 different pairs of wires of decent size, taped each pair together, and ran them to the 4 speaker locations which were in the doors. You will have to remove some interior paneling and stuff to hide the wires properly. The antenna wire should be the thickest there, black, and plug directly into the back of the stereo. With the speaker wires figured out, you should have 3 or maybe 4 wires left. I don't think you have a power antenna, so if your stereo has a wire labeled for this or something similar, don't hook it up. It's a good idea to put a wire nut or tape on the end of it to keep it from shorting as this wire has power. There should be a black ground wire, or 12v-. This can be secured to the body anywhere there is a good ground. The other 2 wires will be 12v constant, and 12v switched. If you have a voltmeter you can check the factory plug for a wire that is always hot. If you find one, hook it to to the 12v constant. If not, you can search under the dash for an unused plug that always has power. For the switched wire, you want to find a wire that has power when the key is turned to acc. All these (ground, 12v switched, 12v constant) should be in the factory radio harness, but I've dealt with situations where they weren't. Sorry if this is too much of an essay! lol What are you using to connect the wires together?

Are you installing a factory or aftermarket stereo? Do you know what each wire coming out of the stereo is?

My dad found this on Craigslist a while ago, so we drove down to Wenatchee and got it. For the most part it's really nice. The paint appears to be newish, no dents whatsoever, interior is near perfect, and all glass is good. It does have some issues though, that I could use help solving: First, its got some rust, like maybe someone had a cheapo paint job done where they painted over rust but now its showing: It's like this in a couple of places, and I'm wondering what the best procedure is for dealing with it correctly. Some of it is harder to get to than this, but I'd still like to deal with it. Also the carb doesn't seem to be working well. Rather than fiddle with it, I'd like to put a Weber on it because I've read they are much better. Could someone help me out with which carb setup would be best for this car? What exactly do I need to order? Are there hoses and wires that need modified? Also, what are the characteristics, pros/cons of each of the choking methods? Any help appreciated, Thanks.

Sweet! Looks like fun!

Thanks for the info guys. I will be picking up some caliper grease and figuring out how the sliders disassemble so I can get that problem taken care of. rverdoold, you mentioned proper piston maintenance. Can you clarify? Do you just mean that it should be greased also? Thanks.

Just a thought: My dad had a 97 Outback, auto, that I was sure was developing tranny issues. At random times, especially at the bottom of hills, it would bog down and loose nearly all power but not stall. It acted exactly like what I would expect from an auto car trying to climb a steep hill in 4th gear at 15mph. I was pretty sure it was a downshift solenoid not working. My dad took it to the local Subaru mechanic who did a complete tune-up on it, and it ran great after that. I think he said it was a bad spark plug wire. I never would have guessed that from the symptoms.

Fairtax, thanks for the clarification. Are you saying that nothing needs to be done about lubricating the actual sliding mechanism? I noticed that some of them were easier to move than others, although none were overly easy.

I understand that the calipers need to be able to slide freely, but it sure doesn't look like they slide on the bolts, at least not on this car. The bolts are maybe 1.5 inches long and screw into a rod that does slide, but it has a boot around it and does not look easy to grease, although they felt like they needed it. Thanks for opening my eyes about the permatex break caliper grease!

Thanks for the replies guys. I got the pads changed out, It worked real slick to use the old pad and and squeeze the pistons back in with some channel locks. I didn't take the cap off the reservoir, but checked it after getting back on here, and everything looks fine there. Speaking of greasing the bolts, I didn't do that. I read on here somewhere that petroleum based grease can cause them to freeze up and that's the only kind of grease I have. Why would it matter to grease the bolts anyway? They go into what looks like a rod with a boot around it, and that does slide, but not the bolts. There is another issue I'd like to ask about: As the break pads wore down, I never heard the squealing that is supposed to come from the little metal clips. The only way I new they were worn was that I started hearing really bad grinding when stepping on the breaks. Upon taking them apart, I found that the inner pad on both sides was completely gone. I mean metal scraping on metal, and the inside of the rotor is badly but evenly scored, and the inner half of the rotor is visibly thinner than the outer half. At the same time, the outer pad still has maybe 60-70% life left. What is going on here? Is this from someone never greasing the the rods that the calipers slide on? We rather recently got this car so this is the first time I've dealt with the breaks on it. Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks, Do I need to open the bleeder to let out pressure?

Hi, I'm trying to replace the break pads on my dads 01 Outback. What is the procedure for opening up the calipers so the new pads will fit in? All the other break pads I've done have been on older subies with only one piston in there and not two. I usually just twist them with large channel locks or whatever works, but this looks a bit different. If i twist them will they go back in? Do I need to twist them both separately, or will twisting one affect the other also? Is it possible to loosen the break bleeder and just squeeze them back in? I searched a little on this topic but didn't find much. Any help or pointing me toward a writeup would be awesome. Thanks.