nickolai

I've had a bad clutch in a Loyale, and it didn't make any noise. When I gave it gas to go up a hill, the rpms would increase, but the speed of the car would lag behind. Have you tried revving the engine while the car is sitting to see if it's caused by engine speed? Check your power steering fluid. Mine whines when it gets low.

The hose needs to be connected to vacuum. Look around the passenger side of the intake manifold for where it came unplugged from. It should be under the big air tube that says "SUBARU F.I."

What size of grit? I'm thinking it probably spun a bearing. Only way to know for sure though is to pull it apart and have a look. In theory (keep in mind I just thought this up - haven't tested it) if a rod bearing is missing or loose you should be able to hear a small clunking sound if you spin the crank a little ways and then spin it the other way. I had an EA81 that quit because of a damaged and then disintegrated distributor gear on the crankshaft. I'm not sure but I think it was probably shavings from that that caused one of the rod bearings to end up in tiny pieces at the bottom of the oil pan. Needless to say, that engine was not worth rebuilding, but I had abused and then neglected it (it ran for a long time with probly 1/4 of the disty drive gear broken off)! Anyway, I say tear it down and see whats falling apart. It may be you caught it in time.

You need an alternator bracket from a carbed EA82. It's what I used when I ditched the A/C. It bolts right on, and moves the alternator to where the A/C pump was. You only use one belt with this setup. I could take pics of mine if you like. I'm not sure if the bracket from an EA81 would fit - I doubt it. Or you might try keeping the A/C pump bracket without the pump in it. I sort of looked into that and it looks difficult. Easiest way is to get the bracket from an EA82 that did not have A/C.

Thanks again for replies. Does anyone know how hard these problems are to overcome? Both cars are auto so does that mean the 92 has EGR, or is that just on the phase 2 EJ22s? Okay that makes sense now. How hard is it to swap all the stuff over? Is it all "bolt on"? I imagine there's wire splicing. Is it all in the engine compartment, or does it require removing and reworking the harnesses like the EA to EJ swap? Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking you meant 2.2? It's been overheated quite a few times. And for the kind of driving this car will see, reliability is WAY more important than power. Also I feel like an engine swap is easier than head gaskets. Do you care to expand, or know of any resources I was unable to find?

The washers fell out along with the cylindrical plug thing. I think they're used as spacers inside of it, (the more you have the shorter the spring etc.) I had all the bolt washers with their bolts.

Now before everyone jumps on me and tells me to do a search, I have. What I have found is that most people say to use a 95-98 EJ22. I don't have a 95-98 motor, but there is a rolled 92 Legacy at a junk yard near me, and I talked to the previous owner who said it was running good. No parts have been pulled from it. I have a 97 Outback with a 2.5 that has bad head gaskets. So my question is: What is the reason for saying only 95-98 engines? Can the 92 be made to work?

I got it all figured out. Pretty simple really. I just had to use my brain a little...

Here's some pics of the valance. There's some close-ups of the worst areas.

This is for an EA82 oil pump. So I took out these things thinking that was all that would come out of that particular hole: A little while later I tipped the pump the wrong way and these fell out. Could someone help me with how these go back in, and did I find all the pieces? Thanks.

Make sure you've got the cooling system filled up all the way. There might be a bubble in the heater core or something. If the vent selector (def./floor/vent) is not switching, make sure you didn't leave its vacuum line unplugged. It goes from the intake manifold to a clear plastic container right behind the passenger side strut tower.

Wow! Very cool project. Everything looks so clean compared to my car! I don't know much about un-rusting. When you put on the POR-15 does all the rust have to be gone, or do you just have to get rid of the loose stuff? What about paint? Can you apply it over paint? I have a front valance like you're looking for. I will go check tomorrow to see how much rust is on it. Would you like me to post some pics of it? Not sure if you want to pay shipping all the way from Washington...

What a brilliant idea. I should have thought of that! Thanks GD!

I have a CV axle from a 79 wagon that needs both boots replaced. I've replaced an inner boot on a Dodge Neon before and it went pretty smooth, so I'm not really worried about that one, but I've heard the outer joint is a little more complicated. So what are the tools/techniques required to get the outer joint apart and back together? Thanks.

Pull the cap off the disty and look for any condensation or moisture in there. I'm not sure but I think old plug wires can allow the spark to kind of jump out of them especially if there's moisture around. Check all your plug wire ends for moisture also.

Thanks for the info. I wish I had known this beforehand...

Here's a pic of my shifter problem. This is right at the bottom of the shifter stick. My question is where is the best place to get a replacement for this? What is it called? This is my 5spd tranny. I never drove the car this was in, so I don't know for sure if it has any problems, I doubt it has any serious problems, as I was told the car was not running because of electrical issues. The back half of it is all covered with oil though as you can see. So I'm wondering if there is a way to determine if this oil leaked from the engine, or if this tranny has a leak somewhere. I would imagine if it was from the engine, the front of the tranny would be more oily. What is involved with resealing a tranny?

Thanks for the U-joint info guys. Now that you mention tranny mounts it makes me wonder if this could be the reason why the shifter rattles whenever I get above about 2500 rpm in my 88 DL. It's quite annoying. It quiets down if I hold my hand on the shifter, but who wants to do that all the time? The car has almost 250K miles and I think it's the original tranny, so is it just a sign that the tranny's getting tired?

Thanks for the quick reply. I did have it machined. To .25mm under. Would it be better to have the crank re-machined or try to find the right bearing? I don't suppose there's anything I can do to the one I've got to make it fit.

Thanks for the input GD. Good to know the ea82 manifold is not compatible with the ea81 hitachi. I will think about doing the spfi swap because I have most of the parts on hand. As far as the oil pickup tube, I thought there was a O ring in there that would be wise to replace.

So I started putting my ea81 together, and the center main bearing (the one with the flanges on the sides) won't fit on the crankshaft. The flanges are just a hair too wide. The other two bearings fit just fine and are definitely the right size for the the crankshaft. Any ideas?

Thanks for the replies and the info guys. Uberoo: Thanks for all the good info! I'm not sure what an ASV system is. I know the Weber is WAY better, and I'll probably get one in the future, but right now I don't feel like dropping $300+ when the stock one is still doing okay. I'm just wondering if there's anything I can do to the stock one to improve it. I will try to get some pics of that shifter problem. Gotta get some camera batteries first... Jerry: Thanks for chiming in! I'll be calling you soon.

I was told by a knowledgeable Subaru mechanic that the U-joints in my 88 DL ea82 were not serviceable. That's not to say the ones from ea81/71 cars also aren't. I'm actually hoping maybe someone can tell me for sure either way on the ea81/71 cars because I've got two gen. 1 wagons that need new U-joints and I don't have the luxury of just swapping in another drive line on these cause I don't have any good ones laying around.

Sorry to hear you're having problems. Mine seemed to be adjusted correctly when I got it, although I did tighten the 3 screws on the choke itself because they were out of whack. You might check this and see if there's a small gap in the choke housing. I don't know if it will help your problem but it's a place to start. Check your vacuum lines. Did you leave any open? Try turning the idle adjust screw down and see what it does. Good luck.