nickolai

If you don't need A/C, it won't hurt anything to just take that belt off. The belt that turns the alternator also turns the rest of the essential pulleys. If I were you I'd pull that A/C pump out of there along with all the rest of the A/C system, because if your not using it it's just dead weight. Also, getting rid of the A/C radiator allows you to pull out your cooling radiator and have much better access when changing belts, timing belts, oil pump etc. If you pull the A/C pump, you will need an alternator bracket from a carbed ea82. I can post a pic of mine if you like.

Let me restate and fill in a few details: Dans 92 Loyale began having trouble shortly after driving it through a couple feet of water. It started backfiring and losing power, and eventually got to the point where the engine would start, but not rev past 1000 rpm. We tried swapping out several things from my car including the MAF, fuel pump, and coil, and finally the disty. When we put the disty in, the car started right up, and revved just fine, but it was still backfiring occasionally, and the disty got hot within about a minute of running. We then went to the junkyard and got him a new disty, started it up, and it seemed to be running great. We drove maybe a block down the street before the car was coughing and losing power again. Turned around and went home. Disty was quite hot, but so was the rest of the engine. This leads me to believe that when driving though the water, some circuit connected to the disty began shorting out, and probably melted, causing a permanent short, that in turn fries distys. Does anyone know the most likely place for this short? Does anyone know how to correctly test each of the wires that plug into the disty and disappear into a wire harness? Where do these wires go?

I'll be going through Spokane on my way to Hayden. I'm willing to stop and take a quick look at your car depending on where you live, but I won't have much time for fiddling with it. PM me your address. None of my CB radios are in usable condition at the moment, but I have 4 walkie talkies, and it sounds like thats what others have got so I think thats a good way to go. This is gonna be awesome! I can't wait!

I didn't get a lot of pics, but here's a few:

I'm down to go. But it would be nice to wait at least a couple weeks so I have time to get my rig together. It will be basically stock - nothin super fancy. I'm busy on June 11, so sometime other than that is good. Sounds like fun!:banana:

Mass airflow sensor. If you look inside the air tube, there's a little wire where the connector is at. The spfi unit is very similar in function to a carb. The only reason why not to put gas in a fuel infected car is that most don't have a place that you can without getting pretty creative. They are a pain. The best way to deal with them is to put a crescent wrench on the fan shaft which has two flat sides. Then you can turn the 10mm nuts without too much headache. A few suggestions if the other stuff mentioned doesn't work: 1. Check all your fuses and fusible links. 2. Check the inside of dist. cap for moisture. 3. It could very well be low fuel pressure which could be bad fuel pump, clogged filter, or bad pressure regulator. If you have a way to test the pressure it should be around 40 psi. 4. Weak coil? 5. If the batt. was losing charge as you were driving, suspect the alternator. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

To put an image in a post, go to photobucket, and to the right of the picture will be a box with different codes in it. Copy and paste the "IMG code" into your post and it will show up as a pic after you submit the post.

Thanks! A lot of good info on that page.

Thanks for pointing that out. I never would have found it on my own. It was definitely in too far causing the high idle. I backed it out some, got the idle to where I liked it, and then readjusted the mixture screw to 2 turns out. I took it for a short test run and it seems to be doing great! No more backfiring on shutoff! I still have yet to do a mpg test, that will probably take a couple days.

That would be you intake manifold gaskets. Most people on here strongly recommend an OEM replacement for them, as all the aftermarket ones are of inferior quality. It should be a pretty straightforward process. Just make sure your gasket surfaces are clean, and maybe take a couple pics of the engine before you tear into it, so you can get all the hoses hooked up again in the right spots. While your in there it would be wise to replace your thermostat. You said sometimes the temp will spike and then drop, which indicates a sticky thermostat, which is bad mojo for the head gaskets if it does overheat. I cannot stress enough the importance of going OEM with the thermostat here! It's what everyone here recommends, and now I do too after having 3 aftermarket ones in a row cause my car to overheat. It's a little more expensive, but well worth it. Concerning the photos, why post a link instead of putting it in the post? I'm just curious because photobucket takes FOREVER to load on my dialup!

That is very possible. But it could be intake gaskets too. You might see if you can't find a leak with the engine warm and running. A telltale sign of a bad head gasket (though a lack of this does not rule out head gaskets) is instant pressure in the radiator. If the radiator has a lot of pressure before the coolant has any chance to warm up, you've got a compression leak into the cooling system. This will usually cause bubbling in the overflow tank especially after the engine is turned off from operating temp. This is my experience anyway. Best of luck.

Agreed. Most of the Redline kit was junk. The gasket that Redline gave me was wrong, so I put some grease on the old gasket and reused it. The coolant passage is blocked. I don't know how to check that.

Thanks for the reply. The carb is a brand new 32/36 from Redline, intended for ea71/81. I have it on an ea71.

So recently I've started driving the weberized wagon more frequently, and it drives great, and has plenty of power, but it just kills me how fast it sucks down the gas. I haven't done a super accurate test, but through two tanks of gas, I estimate it's getting around 10mpg! It also makes a loud bang, almost like a gunshot, every time I turn it off. So obviously it's dumping in way to much fuel, but I don't know what to do to fix it. I'm a bit of a carb noob. I tried tuning it using this page as a guide: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm However, I have the idle screw all the way out, and I still want it to idle lower, and I cant get the mixture screw to make any real noticeable change to how the engine runs. If someone could explain to me what is wrong and how to fix it it would really make my day! Thanks.

Are you gonna paint it or leave it checkerboard?

Wow lookin good! You made fast work of those parts! I hope you weren't short on fender and hood bolts. I meant to get those to you, but forgot them amidst all my rushing. Yes I was thinking while I was taking that door off that it might be a pain to get back on even with two people. Looks like you managed though. Whats up with that pass. headlight? It looks slightly askew.

Good to know, thanks. I think I will go start testing things shortly. I don't know if this is relevant, but with the old speed switch I had, it used to work consistently on any speed except full, on which it would cut out randomly, but wiggling the switch ever so slightly would make it come back on. I figured it was a bad connection in the switch.

Dang I knew there was something I was forgetting to check! No but seriously, thanks for the replies. I plugged in the hazard switch and they work fine. I'm still baffled as to why they worked for a week without the hazard switch... Isn't the resistor pack in the heater core? I hope that's not the problem. I get no fan operation on any speed, which leads me to believe its the fan itself, but I could be wrong.

88 DL SPFI Ok so a while back the heater blower stopped working, and I'd had trouble with the speed switch for it before, so I took off the front of the dashboard (black plastic that holds all the swithes and stuff) to replace the switch. That didn't help, so now I'm gonna go after the fan itself, but that's not my main concern anymore. After I got the dash off, I tested things to make sure it was still road-worthy. All essential systems worked fine. Then after about a week or so of driving, I suddenly have no blinkers. Move the switch and nothing happens. Fuses are good. Replaced fusible links - no change. Pulled steering wheel and replaced entire blinker switch unit with a known good one - no change. I pulled out from above the fuse box what I think are the things that make the blinker blink (4 round silver canisters with a plug on each.) Replaced them with no change. The front of the dash is still removed. Could this affect the blinkers? They were working without for a while. Is there a part of the system I havent checked? I'm at my wits end. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies and ideas. The engine is currently out of the car. (and torn apart) This is what happened with the drilling: As I tried to drill out the steel bolt, I kept slipping and ended up drilling into the softer aluminum around it, especially to one side. So not only is the hole too big, but it's off center. This is why I didn't immediately put a heli coil in it. (Sorry I should have mentioned this before.) I did try to tap the hole at a bigger size, but it's crooked-the bolt doesn't stick out at 90deg. Since the hole has threads (something for the JB to grab onto), and I have the right size heli coils, would it be strong enough if I put a heli coil into the JB?

82 EA81 One of the bolts for my water pump sheered off in the block. Tried an easy out with no luck. Then I tried drilling it, and to make a long story short, I totally butchered the hole. It's probably 8 or 9mm wide now when it should be 6mm. So this is my next idea: fill the hole with JB weld, then bolt on a bad water pump, and use it as a guide to drill a new hole into the JB weld, tap some threads into it and be done. Does anyone see any problems here? Is there something better to use than JB weld?

Maybe it goes to the center console for the parking brake switch, or seatbelt sensor?

Usually if the thermostat is sticking, the intake manifold will be hot, while right on the other side of the t-stat the upper rad hose is cool. You're saying the upper hose is hot and the rad is cool, so that makes me think maybe you've got a plugged radiator. I'm not sure how to do a conclusive test on that, maybe someone else will chime in.

I've taken apart two EA81s with solid lifters that had that O-ring. I'm not sure, but I think they all have it.

Wow that looks like a cool project! Do you know what happened to the car? How much did it cost? I've got a hood and fender (light blue) if you can't find them closer. I'm about 100 miles from you.