scoobiedubie

What year it your GL10? The missing could mean that your distributor is about ready to fail. The 85's and 86's have problematic distributors. Better find a spare, a timing light and enough tools to change it out, in the middle of nowhere.

Either one of two loose pipe clamps will cause this problem. All you need is ears in order to hear the high pressure air shooting out from under your hood. The two pipe clamps are both attached to the short rubber sections that attach to the bottom of your bright & shiny 4WD TURBO aluminum manifold on top of the engine. All you need is a phillips screwdriver to fix this problem. Essentially, you have a leaky/loose connection between the turbo and the intake manifold. It has happened to me when I forgot to secure these two clamps after working on the engine.

A vacuum leak can do that.

This is not theory. A theory has no experiment that has proven it to be true. I have proven it to be true over and over. Gloyale repeatedly keeps criticizing me on this. Apparently, because he does not apply those little daubs. When I first took apart my factory installed cylinder heads, I noticed that the mechanic had applied a gasket maker around those oil passages. It is such a simple thing to do that takes virtually no time or money once you have it apart, that you would be a fool not to do it.

Exhaust leaks also can cause stumbling problems on a turbo model. The fan sensor, is a coolant temperature sensor/switch. The only thing that it can sense is temperature of the coolant and the radiator that it attaches to. They tend to come apart real easily, for some reason.

To upgrade the installation a notch, there are two additional oil passages between the camtower and the cylinder head, that have no O-ring, nor can one be provided. So when assembling, you daub a very light about of the same gasket maker that you are using on your camtower, around the common flat contact areas that surround those oil passage holes. This improves the oil pressure to the hydraulic lifters. When your hydraulic lifters go bad, they do not fill up with oil no matter what you do, however. The bad ones will be soft when you take them out and squeeze down on the plunger.

You might want to specify whether it is an EA81 or EA82 type subaru.

Try replacing the coolant temperature sensor that screws into the radiator and also the pcv valve.

I am smelling a destroyed engine somewhere.

Problem solved. I bought a new coolant temperature sensor that screws into the back of the radiator. No more bogging.

You might try soaking it in something that might dissolve a baked oil bond, like seafoam.

Use the hammer to remove the upper piston. The a file to cut a gouge into the inside edge of the upper lip. Then using a screwdriver, apply torque to the remaining base to break the bond to the head. You have already written off the head so you have nothing to lose.

tighten the cylinder head bolts. recheck the timing belt pulley position

I never noticed any difference and I have had every generation EA82T cylinder head in mine

Annealing is the softening of Carbon steel

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143378-ea82t/?hl=cylinder&do=findComment&comment=1204631

Then do a search.

Wrap it in plastic, then strap it to pallet with straps that cannot loosen up.

He's on Vancouver Island. No drugs there. Only Bigfoot.

You probably won't get any takers above $500.

I just replaced my 4wd vacuum switches because I couldn't get it into 4wd. $13 for a used part and the GL/Loyales may use the identical part. It is at the opposite end of the vacuum lines coming off of the diaphragm.

GLoyale would be better off qualifying his statement as his opinion. I learned from experience and now I have a couple of broken off bolts in my block, that occured with only normal tightening. I see that others report the same problem. So, does the reader learn from the experience of others, or the opinion of one?

25 years of slow cooling reduces the strength of the steel bolts. That strength reduction causes them to break off inside the block, with what you might think to be normal torque. Buy new bolts or find some off of a low mileage vehicle.

You first determine which side it ticks on. Then you take off the camshaft tower cover for that side. You can feel inside for soft lifters. You may need to rotate the crank by hand with a 22mm socket on the front fanbelt pulley that attaches to the crankshaft. Once you determine which one is soft, you replace it with a new one or you may find one at an auto recycler. Unfortunately, putting the camtower back on to make the lifters as quiet as possible, is what separates the men from the boys. That is the subject of another thread.

It turned out to be the vacuum switch at the other end of the vacuum hose. Also, the Loyales, the GL's and the GL10's use the same switch. Most people won't have to sweat this one because it takes over 400,000 miles before this problem arises.