thesmith
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Yep, pinch bolt is totally out. I tried the lower control arm method to no avail. I'm going to try the above mentioned wire brush cleaning of all mating surfaces with new ball joints.
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That's what I was afraid of, good thing the parts themselves are pretty cheap. Unless of course you call Subaru and ask about genuine parts... Carter Subaru's parts department quoted me $108 per ball joint?!! Totally insane.
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Tried setting the weight of the car on it to no avail. Ended up removing the whole knuckle with the axle attached. Was able to get the ball joint in with some encouragement from my medium BFH, but now I can't get the castle nut off the ball joint stud! It doesn't look like I damaged any threads while installing, but the stud spins around in the joint while I try to remove the nut. Did I damage the ball joint if it spins/moves like this? Doesn't have any up or down play but it does move more freely than when it came out of the box.
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Consider it an educational experience. These cars are a great way to learn basic auto skills, cheap to buy and parts are cheap (mostly) too.
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Cool. I'm going to try using a c clamp style ball joint press on the knuckle and see if I can get it in. I'm nervous to sand the ball joint unless absolutely necessary so I don't encourage extra play in it once installed.
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You could be missing a head bolt. If there's coolant on the plugs it could indicate a blown head gasket. How does it run? can't be good for the ol' air fuel mixture if coolant is getting into the cylinder like that
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Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
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Hey all, been a while since I've posted here. Busy times. Recent work on the Doobaru: -Hacked in a new manufactured ACDelco 1991 Maxima alternator with some help from Autosport Seattle. I didn't feel comfortable grinding down the pulley spacer with the tools I had, so I took both alts, new and old, to Autosport. They did an amazing job, the Nissan alt almost looks like it came that way. I can't recommend them enough for machining work, and the attitude there is great. Love the shop, too, bits of MGs and Triumphs all over the place... but I digress. Since the swap, I occasionally get some belt squeal, but I've tensioned the belt with the alt to what feels like appropriate tension. My guess is that the squeal is coming from a leaky/otherwise unhappy PS pump... thoughts? I still haven't done any of the bushings or suspension work, I haven't had much time to work on the car these days. Oh well, still drives and runs pretty well! Here is my car next to a less fortunate GL wagon of the same color: [edit: for some reason I can't upload one of the pictures for this post, I keep getting a 403 error... ?]
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Rear discs went on this weekend, what an improvement! The fluid leak was coming from the inside of one of the drums, what good timing for the swap. Unfortunately my buddy and I noticed that the bushings on my control rods are worn out, and my shocks are toast too.
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Any members near Seattle that have dry space to do a brake overhaul and could help out? I'd be happy to pay for the space and assistance, I just want to get a second opinion and make sure I do my disc swap and overhaul right the first time. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Joined the 100k+ club a month ago. Still running strong! A couple issues have popped up recently: The brake fluid light comes on from time to time. I check the master cylinder, usually put a tiny splash of new brake fluid in, and it turns off. But I think this is related to the fact that it's time for a brake job. AC doesn't blow cold at all. Not that I care for now, given that it's cold in Seattle, but it sucks in the summer. Given the complexity of retrofitting the whole system to run on r134, I might just get rid of it until I go for the engine swap. Also, my power steering pump looks leaky. Anybody know where to get a reseal kit? Work done recently: Driver's side valve cover gasket New Optima Redtop battery w/ Military spec terminals routine oil/filter changes Still waiting to do the rear disc swap until I can rebuild the old calipers and change pads/rotors.
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Hey all. I keep finding JDM EJ22 motors on Ebay out of Legacy LSi's with about 40k on the clock. I'm wondering if there are marked differences between USDM and JDM blocks that would make parts hard to find? Thinking this could be a great candidate motor for a swap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-98-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2L-ENGINE-JDM-EJ22-LEGACY-LSi-Engine-EJ22-Automatic-4wd-/371159568581?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item566ad590c5&vxp=mtr Years available generally look to be from 94-98. Thanks! W
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Hey all, Been a while since I've posted here, busy times. Recent work: -disty cap/rotor -spark plugs (NGK iridium IX) and wires -oil changed to GTX 10w30 conventional, new Mobil1 filter. -front bumper swapped for all black Loyale bumper -new air filter -replaced oil drain plug with Fumoto Qwikvalve -installed RAM mount cupholders (essential!) Work I'm waiting to do: -rear disc swap, full brake system overhaul -ordered Optima battery I have all the parts needed to do the disc swap, but I'd like to install fresh new rotors and pads all around when I do it.
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Brake rotor model question
thesmith replied to thesmith's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Buyer covers shipping. I can meet pretty much anywhere in Seattle. -
Brake rotor model question
thesmith replied to thesmith's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The parts i ordered, turns out, are for a hatch. Anybody need some rotors? I'll sell them cheap, since I can't return them after I attempted to install them.
