Suba9792

I would say its time for a new 4eat. The gears are probably fragged. Drain your great oil and trans fluid to see if you get a present:)

Coolant temp sensor is on the coolant crossover under the intake manifold, not too hard to replace.

I would say coolant temp sensor.

06's still leak from the HG, its not worth fretting over, find a good subaru mechanic to have them replaced and your good to go. They all leak at some point even the ej22 will as well, less prevolant but they will. Id bet even the new FB engines will suffer as well, hopefully they got smart and used the turbo gaskets.

IIRC there should be a ground to the block as well from the - batt.

Well that does make sense being in the rust belt for sure. we just never see them out here and if we do its very rare.

bottom line is.... there is no sure additive that will stop a oil leak without causing damage to vital engine componets and plugging galleys. When you have an oil leak, trace it to the source and replace that item that is leaking. Now if you wish to flush your oil and clean up some varnish then a little mmo or Rislone is fine, but your leak will be profuse with the thin detergent thats in those, and you would probably want to change it after about 100 miles. Did he by chance look at you PS pump:rolleyes:

I have yet to see a leaky EJ pan. Oil stabilizer...humm whats it supposed to be "stabilizing"? i though regular maintenance, oil changes are supposed to relieve these sort of issues. ANY oil additive is plain old nonsense, you just dont use them period. Unless its MMO orRislone to clean it out.Mobile one is great oil i run it in everything I own, never had a problem, but thats also because my cars have always been sealed up tight. But it does tend to thin out more at operating temp, but so do most synthetic oils. Rotella is amazing oil for sure I will give it that! it passed some extreme endurance test.

if the op is seeing the oil up front...one would assume that its not the separator plate, but yes at some point check to see if you do have the updated plate. but for now id stick to the front of the engine. i think his prognosis of your leak was either amature or he just didnt give a rats A$$ and did it sloppy. my bet is that he replaced the seal wrong.

I would NOT use any "oil stop leak" period its just not a wise decision. I would take it back to this "mechanic" and tell him that its still leaking. Were all cam seals replaced? Were they seated correctly? Did he replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal it properly(loctite 518)? Was the crank seal replaced and seated correctly? These are the things you need to watch,I've seen too many shops, seat the seals wrong or not replace all of them period. Or go nuts with rtv on the oil pump. I'd take it back if I was you and tell him to do it right. Also you should check your valve covers as well. If the mechanic knew what he was doing you would not have this on going leak. If you were closer I'd say bring it by.

why do you want a cold air intake?......the stock air box is very efficient and there is a snorkel that delivers "cold air" already. Dont waste your money on a pointless part, put in a good filter and call it a day. why spend a bunch on something that most likely has over 150k on it.

It's probably just the pump, highly doubt its the rack. Double check, and check again, clean the area and run it. You need to source your leak. If its truely the rack I'd be surprised. If its the pump....well as stated before its easy to rebuild.

Year,engine? It helps..

Knock sensor is under...ish the intake manifold on the drives side, easy fix. 12mm socket,wobbly,extension. Be sure not to man handle the new one down,as you may crack it, just tight enough so it stays in place.

So i recently acquired GDs lifted 84 wagon ea81 spfi conversion, thing is sweeet! Well yesterday I went to turn off the car and the fuel pump relay buzzed loudly, mind you its in the glove box with the ECU, well I started it again and turned it off, same crazy buzzing soon as you shut It down. Today i was at the hardware store and went to start it up and nothing...just kept cranking, so I called GD and then checked the fusible links etc, found one that Was a little loose and such and fixed it. Well it did it again a few miles down the road when I stoped to get fog lights for my wife's legacy. Check all connections and seemed all good, so I pulled the ignition relay and fuel pump relay and cleaned them up and qdded dilectric grease. Then it started. Thinking I should just replace both relays and see what happens. It also has a bad relay for the kick down. Which is strangebthat it throws a code for that being a manual ecu. Just wanting to get some ideas from people. Gonna diagnose it more tomorrow.