MaddCelt

I want to stay with a Subi if at all possible but I do not have alot of money to throw into another car. Most of the newer cars are out of my price range and i'm hoping to find a deal akin the the Brat ($200 running) Also, since I have spent alot of time working on my 81, I have gotten used to dealing with it. If all else fails and I cannot find something I will likely throw the Brat in the shop and get the engine worked on, the floorboards shored up and the other issues fixed as well.

Well, the Brat is doing ok but it;s not going to last forever as a daily. As it is the first Subi I have owned, I really don't know what would work better for what I need. My route has quite a few long hills and I need something that can handle them better without having to step on it.

I currently have a 81 Brat and looking to get a 6 cyl for my commute and I'm looking for a Subi. What is the earliest year a 6 cyl was available?

Going to have to throw that Toyo tank back on my Brat. The old tank sprung another leak.

The Brat (EA81) When: Tuesday or Sunday (my days off) the date isn't set

I will be needing to replace the intake gaskets on my EA81 and looking to see if there is anyone on here in my area who would/could lend their exp and aid in the effort. I'm the most knowledgable person in my area and I'm learning as I go. If there is anyone interested, let me know. Thanks

I didn't have the problem when I drove 12 miles to work on country roads but I got out on the hiway with the new job, 65/70 mph for 45 mins looks like it took it's toll.

I finally found the culprit. Turned out to be the intake manifold gasket. You can't hear it but if you hit it with carb cleaner you notice it.

That is how mine is set up, the full length jet in the primary and the short one in the secodary. Having no clear reference in my books I thought it forced over. The spray from it was poor and only from one side, reenforcing my thought that it wasn't right. The spraying isn't solid from what I saw and you can hear the spray sputtering instead of a solid spraying sound. Likely it's a slit in the bottom like you mentioned and it's plugged. That would also explain why it would run better when I closed the choke manually, less air, more fuel ratio?

GD At first I was going to say "I know what I saw!" but I did a search online for what I saw and realized you are correct. I don't have a pic of my carb but here is what I found online and I see what you were refering to. On the left is the tube I was refering to and seeing here it is what I was seeing yesterday. When running, how should the fuel be spraying out and from where on the tube?

In previous posts I asked what could be causing hesitation and idling issues. I looked into all the usual culprits as instructed on here with no success. I finally got a chance to look into the primary barrel and found the problem. The copper tube that the fuel is sprayed out of is somehow extended into the inner tubes wall and bent to some degree. Has anyone ran into this issue and aside from pulling the top of the carb off, is there a way to move the tube back, even a small amount so fuel gets into the carb better till I can get the needed parts? Also, what would have cause that to happen?

Got a question for you crizzlE, the main fuel line from the firewall to the hard carb lines, where does that connect at the firewall side? I am replacing lines in the next few days and I'm not sure where that line connects or what I will need to do to remove/replace it.

Up until recently I had not taken the Brat on the freeway. Did a few times but most of my driving was down country roads to and from work. Two weeks ago I started my new career and drive 95% freeway. Getting to 70 and keeping it has not been a problem but the problem begins after I hit the off ramp and come to a stop. At once the idle drops to around 500 RPM and unless I tap the gas it either protests or dies. I looked at the fuel filter and saw that it needed changed. So today I changed both filters. It has more power and get up and go. So I took it on the freeway to see how she acted. When I got to the stations off ramp it idled fine but when I came back home it was back up to it's old tricks. I got home and let her run while I looked over everything and all seems in order. The only things I noticed were a sputter sound from the carb and when I put the air filter back on it the idle got worse and at one point died. So now I'm at a bit of a loss, so here I turned.

I stopped into my local Advanced Auto to pick up new fuel filters. Gave the guy the car's info and he said he could not order the original style primary filter but found it's replacement and ordered it. He showed me a pic of it and it looked like the one I have on it except it had a third line coming from the bottom. I told him there is only two lines with my filter. What would the third line be for? I told him what I had and would be happy to replace it with a like version but he told me that was the only ones for the model. He directed me to the back corner where the OEM filters were. As I tried to pull up a pic of the one he ordered I pulled the filter I have before the carb. If the website pulls it up, why didn't the clerk?

Here I go, I don't have any with my Brat as I am always the one taking the pics generally but here are a few away from it (rare occurances these days) a few showing some of my other hobbies. I'm on the right. - More recent

I saw someone on here rinohide their dash but I don't remember if it was cracked up or not. If my Brat was in better shape I'd do that.

I would be skrewed if rust was part of an inspection. I think there is more rust than roo. I'm glad those things don't happen here or there would be more cars used as lawn ornaments.

I watched as my Brat turned over to 100,000 miles. 100,047 as I pulled into the parking lot.

Did a search but could not find the issue. This evening I was on the way to town and decided to kick on the heater to see if it was working. It worked as best as it did last winter (not great but better than none). I moved the selector to upper my battery light came on. Not solidly but bright enough to get my attention. When I moved it to bi-level it was slightly lit and at lower it was barely noticeable. I noticed no change in the engines performance. Ideas?

It's been a little while since I have had to do anything to the Brat, which is a nice change. My only problem was with the positive battery terminal. Since I replaced the fusible link harness with two fusible link wires the thickness of the combined wires to the terminal has lessened. This has been causing it to work itself loose enough to prevent start up from time to time. A guy at work who works on my tow motor gave me a marine terminal and after adding loop connectors and putting that on I should have no further problems. :banana:

These I do not think the actual fuse wires were colored, just white cloth. The wires connecting to the harness from the engine side were white with a black stripe and solid white and black from the harness to the battery. Yes I did know what happened as I could see where it went bad and how, just used the wrong word to describe it. You are correct as to the reason it happened. Unfortunately I did not have the luxury of time when my father and I were working on it. We had to take advantage of my mother and wife being in town and could stop to get what was needed. Agreed. It has been a learning process and thanks to your explanation I was able to correct my error. I went back and got actual inline fuse wire and I have not had any problems since the switch.

And how about white cloth? I found fusible links at the parts store website. Now I need to know what the amp is for that particular part. I know exactly what went wrong, at some point it shorted in the plastic connector and burned the piece. Fixing it is a challenge as I do not have the facilities to fabricate another and no junk yards local that have older cars to look for one in a pinch. As for being incompetent, as a first time subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle I have owned, I'm having to make due as my own mechanic of my first subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle, I'm doing what I can with what I have. The best I have been able to find on the subject in the three books I own is replacing it.

Just had a new thing happen and it's going to drive me nuts. Found the fusible link had gone bad and in a pinch we replace it with inline fuses. Worked great for a week then today I turn on my turn signal and it starts blinking crazily and the seat belt dinger goes off like a chipmunk on crank. Got that to stop when I checked my belt and noticed it was on the wrong plug. I get to work and shut her down, then flipped the switch (has a toggle switch that turns on the power for ignition) and it;s dead. Check the inline fuse and it's blown. I get off work and replace the fuse and head down the road to the gas station. Shut down and when I try to start it, dead. Fuse is blown again. Replace it, get going and when I get home, blown fuse. I need to know a few things, like the amps of the original fusible link and where the two wires run to. It's always the same one.

Replaced the starter (again) Removed the fusible link and replaced them with inline fuses Changed the plugs Fixed the high RPM issue, had to tinker with the idle screw and the cable adjuster. Changed the main belt I got my car back running again!!! :banana::banana:

We thought that was a mod. Any clues on this part? "for instance I START the car in 1st gear, because it wont go into gear after you start the car.... and the car needs to be moving to go from 1st to second.... and OUT of 4th before you stop."