rickyhils

These stains remain after an hour of scrubbing with carb spray, plastic scraper, shop paper towel, and MORE carb spray. From what I saw on this engine before it was installed was some brownish sealant at the water jacket area where the previous gasket was visible at the edges. I cannot catch any of these stain marks with my fingernail and all is finger smooth. So it is some kind of stain on the aluminum . A shown here, the rebuilder chose to add sealant at the water jacket areas. Also between the cylinders. I have a Felpro Permatorque gasket ready to go. EA82 non-turbo.

I put a "stuck" HLA in a vise and carefully pried off the cap. The cap can be lightly hammered back in shape to use again. A 13mm deep socket taps it back on. A little careful peening with a very small punch can tighten the cap up a little better. I used a dulled large wood screw on the cap dimples and the soft metal didn't take much. That "stuck open" HLA now feels a lot better. It was that little bit of corrosion [or just gummed up] at the inner piston that was stuck. Some needle nose pliers pulled it as there is inner hollowed out space to get a reverse grip. The OLD (1991) HLA has a different piston bore size than the NEWER HLA.

There has to be a way to carefully reshape that HLA retainer cap and then peen [or stake] the cap surround.

And I have a Felpro permatorque gasket handy. And, since the head is OUT of the car, I can easy enough put the springs back on. I'll try for Right Side Up this time [bunched coils at the bottom]

i The retainer cap on the HLA needs to be properly peened to be reinstalled, and I don't know yet how to properly do that. But go get an old HLA and pry that retainer cap off and you'll see what I mean. Just a little cleaning is like night and day. I used a piece of thin galvanized wire to poke that tiny ball valve just a little to let the carb spray in . And, at the base of each valve spring there is a .050" insert [V.S.I. 203 Insert] that was not on the original old engine. I made some inquiries. The rebuilder was knowing enough to restore the spring tension after the valve grind. see pic. So, I spent an extra 5 hours today just to replace a . . . (wait for it . . . ) a perfectly good head gasket! But I just had to know exactly what was up with those valves before moving on.

1.) Valves and valve seats look to be ok . After some research it may well be that a backyard valve lapping [using a drill] has left three valve seats .009 deeper than that #2 exhaust valve seat. That is how much the straight edge test showed. I will just run it as is. I won't be spending 150+ bucks at a machine shop at this point. 2.) After talking with Mizpah, it is possible that the four HLA on the left side have become stuck on the high side after all these years . And that could account for the louder [different] machine noise I was hearing. When squeezed in a vise they simply do not want to compress. So, I took apart one on those HLAs [compromising the retainer cap] and after cleaning out the bore with carb spray and using a wire to operate the tiny ball valve I put it back together and it worked nicely. But without proper tools to reinstall retainer cap I cannot use it as is. So, I will pick the best four operating HLAs out of the old engine and install those. At worst, I can deal with any ToD that shows up. I will send those four HLAs out to Mizpah as they look like they were new when installed years ago.

Have heard that double reverse valve spring was in theory a way to reduce vibration. Now, did EA81 have them? If not then maybe the same brains behind the OHC was behind this "doubled reversed" spring.

These valve springs pictured are from a salvage yard EA82 (SPFI) . I don't recall what model. I also bagged the distributor which has the crank position sensor, if that helps identify the model or year. However, I just checked the recently removed EA82 from my 1991 Loyale. It does have those reverse wind inner valve springs.

I'll use that extra pump method.

Yeah. I didn't do it correctly. Thanks for giving the spec.

EA82 valve springs. Closer winding is towards engine. [I learned THAT the hard way]

-History unknown.Seller had no info. -I was first to run the engine after rebuild. Rebuild had only assembly lube with no oil. No heat issue. -Will look at valve seats. -I have an extra head or two. - No ej for this car. California smog check issue. Also wiring nightmare. - IF ever scrapped, will make those parts available.

Very good. The logic is foolproof. Red1 Blue2 Green3 Yellow4. Good mnemonics there. And sticky tape gets gummy and messy.

Rampage I will try those things. Was not aware that better to open throttle body during comp test. Others have said that here, but I forgot to do that. And will follow the method of standing the valves up as you mentioned. And will definitely compare the grind on the valve seats. I will spend a good amount of time on examining and I'll post some measurements and a few pics. I don't want to hurry that along at all. I have to go slowly and take notes and make a check list. And I'll keep track of which cyl each valve was in. I can also take a look at old engine valves for some casual comparison.

idosubaru I don't have any idea on how new rings would "break in ". Have heard that doing heavy acceleration several times will ensure good seating of the rings. And on cyl compression: For SPFI FWD what are the typical numbers? I am aware of the need to each cyl reading be close to the others.

Whether it is worth the effort and cost - The bottom end runs and sounds good. Yes, I need to ensure a reliable compression test such as allowing for amperage change - opening the throttle body - test at op temp. FWIW- a few days ago I got approx 130 125 130 135. So, for sure, I need to learn more about consistent comp testing. There is a built in ceiling as to how far I can or will go on this. Yes, I can readily take off the left side head and get the valves out to have a look. I will assume for now that we can locate the "What and Why" of the problem. I'll post some realistic measurements and maybe a few pics on here. If a satisfactory improvement is made and the engine shows consistent reliability then GOOD. But if problem with bottom end surfaces then I will stop as I am not capable at that point.

Step-a-toe When you pass the five month mark, I shall hand my determination-with-EA82 award over to you Ricky Now you may have just convinced me to junk my Loyale and scout around for a Mazda 1300 TC. (I wonder if it would pass California smog?) This is not any argument from me as I see full well your point. And what I have is a far cry from a factory assembly in Japan 30 years ago. I liked your Mazda story as it rings true in all of us in our own way. Now, the comp ranges were too varied. Then even with Cyl#4 up and running and valves good to go, I could possibly have a rough idle due to uneven compression?

Step-a-toe- Got it. Your example of a steel rule with proper measurements is a good way to present what might be useful here. That being said, I am inclined to do a partial tear down and have the valves out to measure them. And look at how the valve seats measure up. All else seems ok.

Step-a-toe Am I straying a bit on the topics here? Too many offshoot issues. Anyway, the Upside Down Spring issue arose during the course of assessing why the left cam has been a bit of a headache since I first fired up this rebuilt. Could well be [or at least I suspect] that a tear down of the valves is in order to see what is really going on.

Bennie, The incorrigible inner-mechanic in me wants to investigate exactly that possibility of some incorrect valves.

Re: Checking left head valves. If removal of left head is a given, then it is only sensible to check BOTH L+R heads. Sure, an extra 5 hours for me, but "Inquiring minds want to know." OR should I just put a bottle of Rislone in the crank case and let it idle for 30 minutes? (JUST KIDDING )

I just now did a compression test Cyl#1 120 psi #3 `130 psi #2 150 psi #4 ZERO. Other than cyl # 4 at zero, I don't see those wide variances in compression as a particularly good thing. Three weeks ago it was #2 exhaust valve suck open. I can see myself undoing the left head bolts right now. ha ha ha

Rampage. As I posted three weeks ago, the #2 exhaust valve was hung open due to a misaligned rocker. Compression test read ZERO on #2 cyl. Consideration to remove the left head is still very much on the table. Valves are the primary question here. And I am confidant that the result will be a good running rebuilt engine. AND, I will have another chance to Not put the valve springs in upside down. ha ha ha

I have already put the cam back on. All I recall is that the keepers on the others looked the same. Latest is that car now idles very rough. Sound location indicates a problem still with that left cam. As the overall rebuild otherwise is good on the bottom end and the Right cam, I will zero in on that left cam. I am casually considering the POSSIBLE option of taking off the left head and 100% sorting out why that #2 Exhaust valve sits low. Maybe the valve seat grind is not the same on that head? I am a total newbie here. As well I will check the entire cam lobe lift specs. And, if the decision is made to FINALLY address all issues by removing the left head, that will make things much much easier overall. I have experience of only two times removing the head in the old engine while it was in the car. [12 years and 160k milers ago] Getting things sorted out now is my game plan. And I have a Felpro permatorque gasket to throw on.