rickyhils

Am going out now to get the stethoscope. And the cam is ok with plenty of oil getting in there. Rockers are in place on HLAs and valves..

Ideally you can get it to make the noise while adjusting the throttle by hand to vary RPM's and have a stethoscope to narrow down timing area (front), valve train (sides), or something else. Yes. Will get a stethoscope. But why is the idle so erratic? I will get new wires and rotor and cap.

idosubaru- Yes. The sound is like a "chuch chuch" noise rather than a metal to metal solid "clink" sound that a rod might make. All things considered, I'm more happy that you suspect that same cam/rocker side. I just now triple checked that the timing belts and TDC "0" with rotor at #1 are correct. I will take off the cam cover and have a look. FWIW yesterday I did a compression check and all 4 cyl read 120 psi. That check was when engine was still warm.

Last week a COLD compression test read 125, 130, 135 then cyl #2 read ZERO w/ open exhaust valve. Got that sorted out. Now there is a noticeable little "chunk chunk" sound on the left side. It is not cyclical and steady but a bit random. Revving the engine up to 3k rpm does not aggravate it. And when letting it quickly drop back down to idle there is no metal to metal "clinking" sound. I need to asses if it is either a bad connecting rod bearing [incorrect rebuild] or the cam shaft/ rockers/ valves. Oil pressure is good. The timing on the disty is exactly where it was on old engine. So, no ignition "ping". Timing belts were checked. Left cam [driver side] UP and right cam DOWN while at /// timing mark. Then rotate CW to "0" degrees with rotor tip pointing to #1 [hill holder]

This morning did a retension of the head bolts. All were still at 47 ft/lbs . Yesterday all cylinders had 120 psi. Compression test done while engine was still up to temp.

And, What causes that irregular "putt-putt" sound from the exhaust? Could it possibly be from the SPFI throttle body gasket? Can I clamp off that small water hose to the back of the throttle body to test?

Yeah. And the sliding mechanism on the inner was maxed all the way out.

The axle is shorter. When the inner was connected [w/ roll pin] it would not slide out far enough for the strut and steering knuckle to meet up. Someone says it is for EA81?

Step-a-toe. I do have an extra set of FelPro Perma Torque HGs. They are fool proof. If any HG issues in coming months I'll re-do using the Perma Torques. And if it gets to that point I'll have chase all head bolt holes.

Benny. Yeah, I got New South Wales and Bendigo mixed up a bit. Oh, I LIKE THAT BENDIGO from the looks of it. And for that retension [retorque] I'll just confirm 47 ft/lbs with no backing off.

I test drove the rebuilt EA82 and then decided to advance the timing as there was a rough and clumsy idle. And, I proudly admit that I don't know what the heck I'm doing. ha ha. There was hesitation upon acceleration. The old EA82 disty was a few clicks advanced. This is same disty from old engine and I advanced it all the way. Next test drive it accelerated like it "wasn't too sure" of itself until maybe 3k rpm when things changed and there was a very noticeable increase in power, unlike anything I remember since I've had this Loyale since 2003. Did some guy try to hot rod this engine? What causes that stuttering "putt-putt" sound from the exhaust? Could it possibly be from the SPFI throttle body gasket? Can I clamp off that small water hose to the back of the throttle body to test? Thanks

EA81? . Thanks.

And not to question what you said. I just want to make sure that I see the situation correctly so I don't wander off and go breaking things. I can be the most clumsy mechanic at times when uninformed.

Meaning that to retention is only to verify torque? So if I set wrench for 47 ft lb and it clicks, then that bolt is good-to-go? I did read somewhere that Subaru service says to back off and apply oil between bolt head and washer. But, maybe even Subaru changes their mind on these things.

That means its a keeper. I'll get a few extra sets of EMPI boots while they are still available. Thanks.

C/V axle reboot. This looks like a good axle. All internal parts show no cracks or scrapes. The cracked boot was caught in time and the inside still had the clean grease. I have the proper re-boot kit from EMPI. The other axle pictured here I got from Ebay a while back. Turns out it is not for FWD Loyale. The splines match up, but it is a little too short when extended, the inboard fitting looks different, the shaft is thicker, and the boot band recesses are in the wrong place. What car is this axle for? It looks like it might be reputable reman perhaps.

YES. I did do a retension [re-torque] . I first took it out for a little test drive when it ran like crap at first, so it went up to temp. I did the retension it when the cam was off. And for the right side I have a ground down 17mm socket so I only need to remove the valve cover. The retension I did in the correct order starting at the centre bolt and then working around one by one in the correct expanding "box" formation. I put a dab of clean oil between the bolt head and the washer before tightening. Some bolts had that "jumping" little click when approaching the 47 ft/lb max. I did not want to open a "can of worms" and do a thread chase on each bolt. But, I know that steel against aluminum is a "no contest" situation. ha ha . And, it was that left side bolt #8 [a corner bolt] that felt dodgy when I loosened it up. It took a little more pull on the wrench to work it out 2 or 3 turns and I was very concerned that I might have been pulling out some aluminum threads. But ALL GOOD as it went back to 47 ft/lb with none of that scary "give" in the feel of the wrench. And, I refused to wimp out and go to a real professional mechanic. In this case "tenatious" is my middle name. 12 years ago [on the removed EA82], I was 100% successful in stripping out one head bolt. [Bravo, Ricky!] . As luck would have it, the bolt hole was just the right size for a Heli-Coil thread tap. And, against better advice, I installed two (2) Heli coils into the depth of the hole and the engine was good-to-go. And, my lack of forethought also led to adding water improperly to that same engine when it overheated. I heard a metallic "TICK" and knew that I had just ruined the block. But after properly using CRC engine block sealer I was once again good to go, and that was 12 years and 150k miles ago. Two of the main things that led to my car repairing history are 1.) It was either do-it-myself or junk the car. 2.) Once I got a little familiar with the workings of a Subaru car I had so much admiration for the quality and logic of the design and the solid construction that I made my mind up to keep going.

I want to run it properly for sure! Only FWD so I won't be slinging mud up on the fenders, but I do like the 5 spd trans. And those HLA could certainly be a direct cause of the "rocker straddling". That is the term that I learned from "el_freddo". Will stay with 10W-40 oil for now. I did get the STP oil, and for no particular reason. The old engine w/326k miles would do the tick of death ToD and if someone was standing nearby I'd say "yeah it sounds bad, but in a minute it will just go away." And it always did go away. And whenever the ToD showed up all I would do is restart the car and it was dead quiet again. When the rebuilt was on the stand I used a drill with a socket to test the oil pump [timing belt off] and down the distributor hole was a sudden gush of oil. That was indeed comforting to see. And due to the project activity at hand I was able to spot a fresh split in the c/v boot at the wheel end. So, earlier today I got out my Ebay reman c/v axle to install. It fit the transmission spline and the steering knuckle ok, but it was a bit too short on the travel so I had to abort. Luckily the grease in the old one was still fresh with no grit feel to it. So I'll try out the set of Dorman c/v boots and then put that axle back to use. I don't know why I made a wrong purchase as the spline count was the same. 26? Or does the passenger Right side use a shorter travel? Yeah, the EA82 has good and maybe not so good things, but I like them anyway. Even when having to down shift on a grade. ha ha ha

The EA82 of unknown rebuild is now up and running with no snags. Fired right up. Bottom end sounds quiet. Revs to 3k rpm without any snags. No oil or water leaks as yet. After warm up there is a wee bit of intermitant rough idle, and a quick throttle boost has a wee bit of hesitation. Will let it cool down and look at the spark plugs. ALL YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN A GREAT SUPPORT. THANKS

Yes - The HGs that were done 12 years were on the original EA82 in this car, and it is the same engine that I removed from this car last week. Oil needed sealing up. It had intermittent rough idle from sticky valves. Clutch needed changing. 326k miles. A few months ago I found this rebuilt EA82 long block on Craiglist for $100 bucks. Seller had no history of who did the work, but it had signs of a quality rebuild, as all openings were capped off professionally. Done years ago by the looks of it. That is the one that I put on the engine stand a week ago and was checking it out before installing. It only had assembly lube in it. And rotating the crank bolt went smooth enough. Connecting rods and pistons looked ok from the bottom. All I did to it was to make sure the oil pan was sealed up good before I put oil in it. But I failed to notice that straddling rocker. That is why I would hear the odd faint "tick" and not know what it was when I rotated the crank a few times while it was still on the stand. Anyway- When I get it all put back together I will do a compression test for reference. Thanks ALL

Step-a-toe - I did not in any way mean to discount your suggestion of a straddling rocker being the problem. Perhaps I didn't readily visualize what such a thing actually could have been. The term "straddling rocker" went over my head, and next time I won't act so flippant about things I don't know of. So, credit to YOU for that. And, being that the #2 cyl exhaust valve was then WAY out of easy view in the car, my level of experience would not have given me much hands-on "know how" as to how to go about addressing that problem with much self assurance, and that's why I later chose to remove the cam. And it was AFTER I did a little engine tear down that I had a better view, with my ignorance of the term "straddling rocker" behind me. Now, had it been the INTAKE valve, then yes, I would have easily been able to spot it as per your suggestion, that is IF I were smart enough to follow up on terms that are new to me. I am being long winded, I know. But YOUR willingness to help here is of tremendous value to all. And next time I'll try to use more of my brain. Cheers.

Yes. The #2 cyl exhaust rocker seemed not in the correct position and it fell sideways when I carefully prodded it. I have a little hands-on experience with this car. I did the HGs [Fel-pro perma torque] 12 years ago [150k miles ago] . But today I didn't want to mangle things up too much, so I just took the cam carrier off. A few light scratches on that #2 exhaust cam, but not where the lobe is high. I was then able to work all four valves and all feel and look ok. A little hand turn on the crankshaft and a thumb on # 2 spark plug hole gave the expected little burst of pressure. It had to have been that rocker that was hung up. At this point I don't mind the hassle of reassembly. 12 years ago I used zip ties to hold the rockers in place. But I heard that a dab of heavy grease and jacking up the left front helps during reassembly. And why didn't I catch this when it was still on the engine stand? Arghhh!

Bennie, I now have the left cam area clear and all 8 bolts are loosened up, ready to whack it with a chunk of wood and a dead blow hammer. There is ultra gray sealant on it. That being said . . . I'll give it another look-see with a flat head screwdriver. I like your approach, and it sure would save all that hassle putting the cam back together. That exhaust valve is now better in view . Will take a look. I might just play some Rolf Harris to get me in the mood. ha ha

Looks like the only way to safely compress the spring is to remove the cam carrier?

* Will need to remove cam carrier to see further. Will remove radiator hoses, engine mount nuts, air intake, and jack up from transmission to make that easier. * Will get a tool to compress valve spring and remove keepers. At least I know to FIRST PUT SOME ROPE INTO THE CYLINDER FIRST and then bring the piston up. Will then see if valve can be moved by hand. I guess that a light weight hammer for some careful tapping might likely be in order. * A bore scope is a great idea. But that might still give cause to remove head to fully address valve issue.