rickyhils

Thanks for the tip. Can a knowledgeable mechanic assess condition of salvage yard crank and pistons while still in the block? If good, like you said, will redo valves and check all head surfaces. Have heard that rings can stay good for a long time. Are new valve springs in order, or just check existing ones? I redid both heads on my Loyale 9 years and 80k miles ago. The HLA lifters will . . .always clatter a bit at times. I replaced oil pump at same time (probably only needed to replace that MIckey Mouse ear gasket). Odd how when idling and there is HLA clatter, simply restarting the engine makes it all dead quiet. I did that all by myself. Will toot my own horn now and say that I also took out 5 spd trans because front main shaft oil seal leaking bad. Opened trans case (easy enough to learn) and found a bad main shaft bearing. With help of local Subaru guru I changed out both shaft bearings and oils seal. When you are in that far only way to go is Subaru factory parts all the way! That was 10 years 100k miles ago. It took me 3 weeks to get that done.No help. (pat myself on the back, thank you) Thanks. for the EA82 advice.

It look like an EA82 Turbo rebuild is a practical no-go. Does that same advice apply for an EA82 that is NON turbo?

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Will consider reversing it as tensioner not the cause.

Yesterday I noticed that the right side tb is riding a little closer back. It's not rubbing against the cover but you can see the shiny wear pattern that is more centered . I just put a new tb kit on yesterday. I have successfully changed my 1991 Loyale EA82 timing belts 3 or 4 times the past 10 years or so and all was good. UPDATE *** I just read previous posts on same subject. Will check belt tensioner. FWIW. Last tb kit was Japan. This time from ITM (gotta be from China)

Good that you located it when you did. Spending time to verify all connections to the engine is what is needed. With the vibration and the environmental elements (oil from engine flying all about over time). Thanks And if anyone looking for 1994 Loyale ECU box I just might have one that works. It came from Oregon. And do you know if California purposed ECU boxes have special coding inside them?

Dee. Thanks for the reply. Weak push on connector negative at starter motor was the problem. Was most likely ready to fall off and the backfire shook it free. And, yes, the first thing I did was check those four fusible links near the battery. . I once had one of those get corroded and the whole car was dead-in-the-water. Thanks again.

I found the problem. Loose fitting negative push on clip at starter motor was disconnected. Must have jumped off when engine backfired. With old cars there is always a long list of possible failure points that can show up.

1991 Loyale non-turbo won't crank. All other electric is ok. Happened after driver side timing belt broke. and loud backfire. Clutch safety switch ok. And have learned that EA82 is non interference design. SPFI. Have looked at Haynes book. all four fusible links next to battery are ok.

And Dave T. Thanks for your reply.

More Re: ECU story. It is ironic that the CEL remained off for last weeks smog test. My electronics guru friend suspects that when old EGR solenoid when bonkers with high and low ohm readings it also created voltage spikes that messed up the ECU. With no Hitachi schematic available, opening ECU case showed EGR solenoid return wire going directly to that UPA1478H which is what pulls down to ground the 12v reference input that first is fed into the EGR solenoid. It was only allowing 7 volts at solenoid connection. And, I am in California. I failed smog last week with CO% at 0.90 (max allowed is 0.66 ). I addressed what my mechanic diagnosed, and I put new CARB approved cats welded on for $440.00 parts and labor. Cat was clogged due to a coolant leak into cylinders and overheating. Problem was that double horseshoe coolant gasket under the throttle body. At one point driving up a grade at highway speed gave symptoms of fuel pressure problem, but was clogged cat. I have to say the exhaust smell a lot better now. When I pass smog next week I will investigate rebuilding an extra EA82 (SPFI non-turbo) . Car is at 310k miles. I will not see it go to the crusher till at least 400k (or 500k?) .

I just fixed my 1991 Loyale ECU. New EGR solenoid was still showing code 34. All wire paths checked ok. The fix is this: Open Hitachi ECU box and go to the first 10 pin transistor IC array. The EGR solenoid wire returns directly there. IC It will be UPA1478H. ECU now good to go. Other symptom I had showed 7 volts at EGR solenoid connection (ignition on /engine off) . Should have been 12 v.