rickyhils

I JUST FOUND THE INFO AT THE ALLDATA SITE . NO NEED TO RESPOND TO THIS TOPIC. I have 1991 Loyale. Wagon 5spd FWD SPFI. Non-turbo. Am looking to test electrical reading from oil send switch at oil pump. Wire contact is at the larger switch that sticks out from the pump via a short tube. All-Data doesn't say what the ohm range should be coming out of that wire. Also there is an unused electrical tab right after where the oil filter attaches. Not sure what that might have been for. Am also looking for the expected voltage range going into the dash board oil pres gauge. I have learned enough here to not go off expecting to accomplish miracles with keeping this engine alive a whole lot longer. But I can still use 10w-30 in it so it has some time left on it. Has more than 275k mi on this engine. Runs ok. Has normal "TOD" tick-tick that comes and goes. Maybe it will go to 300k- 350k- or more before low oil pressure/bad rings get the best of it. THANKS You Guys for any info on those gauge readings.

Thanks you guys. Best way for me was to slice through strut bracket and bend the new "tabs" in opposite directions till brake line can pass through. And no critical loss of structural integrity. No need to disconnect brake line. All you guys are the best. thanks

1991 Loyale. The push button cassette on the dashboard is not powering up blower fan or engaging a/c compressor clutch. Two 15 amp fuses are good. Fusible links under the hood are good. Fan speed switch set on high shows about 1 ohm reading from blk to blu wires, so fan speed switch is not the problem. I really want to avoid opening a can of worms by getting into the cassette push button electric contacts assembly to look at any problems in there, unless I am forced to do that. The symptoms were intermittent then nothing. Is there a relay switch for the air controls? Thanks

1991 Loyale FWD wagon 5 spd. Just put on 4 new KYB struts. Ride and cornering now back to Subaru GOOD. Only when I turn slowly into a driveway ( with a normal slight upward grade from street to sidewalk level) is there a very light and polite "tap- clunk" from the right side front. Does not happen when coming to a dip that is straight across the road. Can only "guess" that worn sway bar bushing is allowing metal to metal contact. *** Also- at 320k miles, is a working clutch cable better to get a preventative replacement? or just inspect it and re-lube it? Thanks

1991 Loyale FWD. Inner front wheel hub seal needs replacing. With old seals [inner/outer] pulled out, can I push fresh grease through the bearings while they are still in the hub? I can scoop out the old grease as I go. And is it better to see if those seals are available from Subaru? Bearings are still good. I don't do off road driving. Thanks

OK. Easy enough to lift off the brake lines. Am also looking at getting a new clutch cable [ before mine breaks- 330k miles] . Will try a local Subaru dealer for any stock still available. And, can a used FWD axle [ off the car- but still in good condition with 8 years / 80k miles on it] simply have NEW BOOTS installed? Thinking preventative for known good c/v axle. Or should I skip that and just look for reliable re-man axles? I have two Cardone axles on there now for several years and boots still look ok. Maybe will investigate some silicone coating to keep them from cracking. Thanks.

1991 Loyale wagon. Am replacing the front strut shocks. Look like brake lines need to be removed from the caliper in order to remove strut assembly. Just want to check before I make tons more work for myself. Thanks

Yes. It was the rotor set screw. I'll put blue Loctite on it. That one little screw brought the whole car to be dead in the water. Thanks all for your help and interest. Car has 320k miles. Will drive it to 400k and beyond. Have spare salvage yard complete EA82. Piston walls look ok. Will check oil pump wear (and change gaskets) and have valves cleaned. Will check heads with flat edge. Will put Felpro gaskets on that don't need the re-torque routine. Have a reman cv-axle. Will look for another re-man axle to have in stock. Although the Auto Zone axle has worked for 90k miles now. EA82 is . . . yes, under powered a bit. But I love this car. 5 speed FWD.

DaveT - Have heard that Subaru would out source some of the design particulars. So, not always the same as might be expected, and a bit quirky at times. Mine is 1991 SPFI naturally aspirated.

GeneralDisorder- YOU ARE the MAN! Maybe some blue thread lock this time?

When I saw your reply just now- this big grin come over my face and began to chuckle. Because I know that you just might be 98% correct on that!

Two hours ago my1991 Loyale just stopped running. Attempt to restart acted like timing was way off and there was backfire. As timing belts were visible (I've been leaving t.b. covers off) I rotated the crank bolt and checked flywheel marks with cam sprockets. All good there, showing that timing belts did not jump. Car running fine, no warning, then stall. Recent history: I got some gas just 5 minutes before (Was on empty) . Nobody tampered with car. And - I pulled ignition coil wire and car cranked over normally. Check ECM under dash. No codes. Will check distributor cap and rotor in the morning. Thanks

Thanks for the tip. Can a knowledgeable mechanic assess condition of salvage yard crank and pistons while still in the block? If good, like you said, will redo valves and check all head surfaces. Have heard that rings can stay good for a long time. Are new valve springs in order, or just check existing ones? I redid both heads on my Loyale 9 years and 80k miles ago. The HLA lifters will . . .always clatter a bit at times. I replaced oil pump at same time (probably only needed to replace that MIckey Mouse ear gasket). Odd how when idling and there is HLA clatter, simply restarting the engine makes it all dead quiet. I did that all by myself. Will toot my own horn now and say that I also took out 5 spd trans because front main shaft oil seal leaking bad. Opened trans case (easy enough to learn) and found a bad main shaft bearing. With help of local Subaru guru I changed out both shaft bearings and oils seal. When you are in that far only way to go is Subaru factory parts all the way! That was 10 years 100k miles ago. It took me 3 weeks to get that done.No help. (pat myself on the back, thank you) Thanks. for the EA82 advice.

It look like an EA82 Turbo rebuild is a practical no-go. Does that same advice apply for an EA82 that is NON turbo?

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Will consider reversing it as tensioner not the cause.

Yesterday I noticed that the right side tb is riding a little closer back. It's not rubbing against the cover but you can see the shiny wear pattern that is more centered . I just put a new tb kit on yesterday. I have successfully changed my 1991 Loyale EA82 timing belts 3 or 4 times the past 10 years or so and all was good. UPDATE *** I just read previous posts on same subject. Will check belt tensioner. FWIW. Last tb kit was Japan. This time from ITM (gotta be from China)

Good that you located it when you did. Spending time to verify all connections to the engine is what is needed. With the vibration and the environmental elements (oil from engine flying all about over time). Thanks And if anyone looking for 1994 Loyale ECU box I just might have one that works. It came from Oregon. And do you know if California purposed ECU boxes have special coding inside them?

Dee. Thanks for the reply. Weak push on connector negative at starter motor was the problem. Was most likely ready to fall off and the backfire shook it free. And, yes, the first thing I did was check those four fusible links near the battery. . I once had one of those get corroded and the whole car was dead-in-the-water. Thanks again.

I found the problem. Loose fitting negative push on clip at starter motor was disconnected. Must have jumped off when engine backfired. With old cars there is always a long list of possible failure points that can show up.

1991 Loyale non-turbo won't crank. All other electric is ok. Happened after driver side timing belt broke. and loud backfire. Clutch safety switch ok. And have learned that EA82 is non interference design. SPFI. Have looked at Haynes book. all four fusible links next to battery are ok.

And Dave T. Thanks for your reply.

More Re: ECU story. It is ironic that the CEL remained off for last weeks smog test. My electronics guru friend suspects that when old EGR solenoid when bonkers with high and low ohm readings it also created voltage spikes that messed up the ECU. With no Hitachi schematic available, opening ECU case showed EGR solenoid return wire going directly to that UPA1478H which is what pulls down to ground the 12v reference input that first is fed into the EGR solenoid. It was only allowing 7 volts at solenoid connection. And, I am in California. I failed smog last week with CO% at 0.90 (max allowed is 0.66 ). I addressed what my mechanic diagnosed, and I put new CARB approved cats welded on for $440.00 parts and labor. Cat was clogged due to a coolant leak into cylinders and overheating. Problem was that double horseshoe coolant gasket under the throttle body. At one point driving up a grade at highway speed gave symptoms of fuel pressure problem, but was clogged cat. I have to say the exhaust smell a lot better now. When I pass smog next week I will investigate rebuilding an extra EA82 (SPFI non-turbo) . Car is at 310k miles. I will not see it go to the crusher till at least 400k (or 500k?) .

I just fixed my 1991 Loyale ECU. New EGR solenoid was still showing code 34. All wire paths checked ok. The fix is this: Open Hitachi ECU box and go to the first 10 pin transistor IC array. The EGR solenoid wire returns directly there. IC It will be UPA1478H. ECU now good to go. Other symptom I had showed 7 volts at EGR solenoid connection (ignition on /engine off) . Should have been 12 v.