rickyhils

All looks OK with my 1991 Loyale head light circuit. I am on an uphill learning curve here, but slowly grasping a few bits at a time. I have an official 1991 Loyale set of circuit diagrams. The two HL solenoids are always powered up when ign is ON, so full positive power is always supplied to both HLs (head lights). It is the HL switch that completes the circuit to ground. I would have thought that the switch itself need be capable of the higher amperage, as it completes the circuit to ground. I am under-qualified here I know. Another notable find is this: When a HL solenoid is out (or a fuse is out), it is the DASHBOARD HIGH BEAM INDICATOR BULB that will still transfer some low watt voltage on over to one of the HLs, causing a very dim glow to happen on one of the HLs. I had previously thought that I had some serious wiring problems when I first saw that some months ago. So not a problem there. My brain is sweating trying to slog through all of this. But it is a "good" slog. ha ha ha

Both relays [green connector and black connector] are always energized whether head light switch is on or off. 1991 Loyale Wagon SPFI FWD. With ignition on/ engine off can hear "click" when relay connected. There has been no messing with the electrical by me, and previous owner bought it new and only took to certified service shop.

As a test, I just went over to my 1991 Loyale wagon (SPFI- FWD) . When the front [closest to battery] GREEN fusible link is unplugged, the ECU does not operate at all. FWIW, the radio still works as do the headlights and everything else. It even cranks over. A peculiar behavior is that [when that 1st GREEN link is unplugged] the IAC makes a chattering sound that then goes away when GREEN link re-connected. Anyway, for the 1991 model Loyale, that 1st GREEN fusible link transfers the power to the ECU.

Liked "gifted friend".

Without ECU the car will simply not run at all. I know that much at this point. You need to check voltage going into the ECU. Undo the three 12mm bolts at ECU, then lower it and unplug the connectors. I think check for voltage with the key at ON position. Not sure which pins.

Then as General Disorder said- power supply issue. Even if no codes you should see several blinks in succession as a normal "alive and well" indication.

An impact power tool would have been nice. [ Harbor Fright Earthquake Impact gun] What is the correct tool? How would I give a quick shove and have it break free? Rebuild this? EA82? The sane and unanimous answer would be "no". By the time this Loyale might need another engine, the body- suspension - electrical- cooling - steering might be too far gone. (@ 65 years old, I myself might be too far gone). An incorrigible "backyard mechanic" (such as I) might get the crankshaft mic'd if only to see if original sized bearings could still be installed. But NO wasting money on crank grinding. And FORGET about boring the cylinders. If, and only if, I have the desire to learn about putting an engine together then I might consider it. If I have the opportunity and space to do it in. Then drop it in, listen to it self destruct, and then put the good engine back in. A FAIR AMOUNT OF LABOR. But inquiring minds want to know! But the main drawbacks are: - Lack of knowledge and experience - Need a few specialized tools - No extra engine parts available - HIGH leaning curve - TOO many things to royally screw up! Now the good news: Who cares if I mess it up? If it blows up I'll just open a Stone Pale Ale, light up a smoke, and just have a laugh. The only loss on parts would be bearings, pistons, rings, OEM engine internal oil seals, head gaskets, tube of ultra-gray. If it runs ok I can mothball the currently good engine for a while. *** ALL THE ABOVE IS MY IMAGINATION AT FULL TILT ***

What made the difference was when the plug was heated up with a butane torch.

Yes. First thing I did was remove the oil pump parts, spray them with PB blaster, and put them into a heavy plastic bag. And, a good tip there, will now save all cog gears from cam and crank. I run with no front TB covers, so any smooth turning TB adjusters and idlers I'll also put aside.

Educational Tear down part four. Cyl #1 crank connector. Does the crank connector look ok? Might a decent mechanic just measure the crank shaft and if still up to spec just polish the journals, put in standard bearings, and go with that? New pistons but keep the connecting rods?

Tear down part three. Not sure but crank shaft look to still be ok. There is that pit in one of the cylinders. What caused that?

Tear down part two - At 326,000 miles it was still a good runner. Non-turbo FWD 5 spd. But oil leaks came on heavy and I unknowingly ran it at dangerously low oil level, until I heard what sounded not good and limped the two miles back home. Back at home I made the audio here of what may be piston slap. Jump ahead a month later and it looks like cyl #4 piston was the source of the slap, but I'm only guessing. #4 cyl wall has visible marks but no scoring. And, FWIW, the end of #4 con rod (where wrist pin goes) has a side play of .038" which just seems like too much play, at least to a newbie such as I. Some audio and pics here. Old EA82 after low on oil.mp3

This is NOT any rebuild project. My only purpose is to learn more the old stuff. 1.) Getting to the piston wrist pins was a formidable task for me. You guys have done it a hundred times, I know. I started with a 14mm bolt and a larger pipe wrench. No go. Just look at that poor bolt. I tried propane heat. No go. Then I gave the plug a "love tap" with a 15lb sledge hammer. That finally worked. As this is scrap I was not concerned very much.

This rebuilt EA82 [with no history of who did the work or when it was done] turned out to be ok. I found it on Craigslist. Local pickup. It was my lucky break. 160 miles on it so far. Shows to have a reliably functioning bottom end.

That I will do. And a side note- The cam belt was off by one notch because I think that I had not tightened the belt tensioner and it slipped when I rotated for the other side. The idle was sort of ok but there was low power on acceleration and a wee bit of occasional backfire when I let off the throttle. I though "Oh, Ricky, just when you thought you had it, you messed up." (I run it with no cam belt covers). But now it runs really well with good torque. Till next next time with new topic.

Engine now runs well with no remarkable "extra" noise volume from left side that was there before. After reinstalling cam with capable HLAs it took a few miles of driving at varying rpm [up to 4500] to have the HLAs pump up and quite things down nicely. Engine purrs like a kitten at idle.

OK. And any need to remove block dowel pins? And. I see you are electronics engineer. I fixed the EGR cel code 34 by changing out a transistor array chip inside ecu. Dummy load 35 ohms worked but then down the line the chip failed. So, will try 80 ohm 5 watt dummy load.

So, I imagine that the channel should be 11'' x 7'' for flat coverage. End with 320 grit? Have read that a shallow fire ring might be ok, meaning only slightly noticeable using fingernails.

The left head was sealing ok. Only reason for removal was to verify condition of the valves. After lots of cleaning with carb spray, plastic scraper, and paper shop towel I just put the head back on.

Are you saying while engine is in the car?

Idosubaru- First - Let it be said that we all highly value the advice from DaveT. However in my present situation I can only go with it as is, so your advice is as reasonable and practical as any at this point. The fire rings are not "deep" as they barely catch the fingernail. I'll do ft/lb sequence 22, 37, 55. Then, I'll just drive the car and CHECK COOLANT AND OIL every chance I get. A side note: As far as the ancient EA82 goes- here is a FWIW comment. On a junk EA82 block I tested some head bolt torque amounts. I worked up to 70 ft/lbs, with the bolt coming back out clean with no aluminum pulled. AND - One of the bolt holes was Heli-coiled 12 years [160,000 miles] ago and it went to 70ft/lbs just fine. And, against all good advice I installed two [2] coils in that same hole. I carefully measured so that there was a gap between them. AND - the stock EA82 head bolt hole accepted the Heli-coil tap without need to drill. At the time it was either take a chance or junk the car. The new threads were cut without a snag. don't we love it!

DaveT- Yes. That is the ONLY way to be sure of the head. However, on the block surface at the fire rings I can only give it my best shot with carb spray, plastic scraper, and paper shop towel. I'll work on that for 30 minutes and then I will have to call it quits and go with it.

Thanks for the info. Head looks clean and has no overheating issues. Recent operation had no issue at all on ability to seal. Only purpose for removal was to triple check valve condition. Stains ONLY on engine surface where [questionable use of] brown colored sealant made contact AT WATER JACKET AREAS ONLY. Compression sealing will be ok. Purpose of my OP here is to hear from you guys as you've "been there-done that" . My experience is that I once put gaskets on the removed EA82. That was back in in 2008 and after 160,00 miles they held up just fine. But doing it the first time and being successful is still no substitute for previous experience. Sometime we noobies "get lucky" and become over confidant. I will be installing head now. Felpro Permatorque . *** Old Gloyale post said finish up this final sequence: Go to 45 ft/lb. Back off 90deg. Retorque to 45 ft/lb . Then a final 90deg. I can see how this should bring a more reliable final clamping pressure, rather than just relying on what the torque wrench says. I have a salvaged engine I can practice on.

Stained, yes. And this block surface is Smooth to the touch. I can not feel anything. Nothing catches by fingernail At All. No protrusions. The head cleaned up nice. This head has no overheating issues or flatness issues. Removed from engine only to check valve condition. The sealant compound was not needed and that is what caused the stains.

I have a new topic at under: Engine cylinder head stains