bstone

No torch. I'll try to squeeze on the vice like you described and hit it with a hammer. What size nut is that? I guess I should replace it when I finally get it off.

Leave it up to GD to provide excellent advice in record time. Why aren't we paying him? I tried that with the vice grips and hammer. Still didn't budge. I'll try again. Any other ideas?

I think I have a leak coming from the intake manifold or the manifold gasket, so I got another from a local boneyard that also includes an EGR, throttle body and 2 fuel injectors for $75. Not a bad deal! I have gotten everything removed and the intake is loose, but there is a singular bolt that holds on a metal line going from the EGR back to the engine and it just won't budge! I first used a 17mm open wrench but it just succeeded in rounding it. So I banged on a 16mm and it's doing the same. Here's a picture of it: I am about to push it to a shop a few blocks away that is known as a great Subaru shop, but want to see if you all have any ideas first. I've already soaked it in liquid wrench but it just ain't budging. Ideas?

Does Jasper make Subaru engines? They make good reman engines.

When all 4 are going you either have a coil that's burning out or it just happens to be that all 4 plugs and wires are failing. Clear the codes and see if they come back.

If nothing else rotate in order to prevent the rims from being entirely rusted onto the hub and to keep the lugnuts from being completely rusted onto the hub bolts. Can't tell you how many times I've had to pull out the breaker bar or blow torch in order to fix a simple flat.

Looks like a wiring problem. Make sure everything's plugged in and snug. Clear codes and try again.

Replaced all 4 last summer (379 days ago) with Moog products. It breaks 2 days ago, but there is a "Limited Lifetime Warranty". I go off to Advance Auto Parts (where I got it from), take the tire off, take remains of link off and return it. It comes 2 hours later. Meanwhile, I have them test my alternator as the battery is getting a low charge and sometimes failing to start. Alternator tests bad, battery tests good. Fast forward 2 hours later the link comes. Turns out the price is now $5 less, so they refund my credit card those $5. INCREDIBLE! Go out into the lot and put on the new link. Then I headed off to local Subaru dealer to get the alternator. (Heard too many horror stories about aftermarket and rebuilt ones.) Call them before to ensure part is in stock. "Yes" they say. I get there and guess what- computer says they have it but it's not in stock. They call another dealer. Same story! The third dealer 8 miles away actually has his eyeball on it. I go there, pull the old one, and they have a large box entitled "Remanufactured Subaru Alternator" sitting on the desk. I am not thrilled with it being a reman, but at least it's Subaru. 12k/12month warranty. Now the car charges like a champ! Then I go off to Firestone for the second alignment in 2 days. They failed to tighten down the strut bolts, where it connects to the steering knuckle, when they did an alignment yesterday. I tightened them down and they redid the alignment pronto. I have lifetime alignments- not a bad deal. Not bad for 3 hours work!

If the belt snaps then you can have real big problems, including bent valves on many models.

I spent 8 hours last night trying to get the lower ball joint off my driver's side steering knuckle. The head of the bolt sheared off while trying to remove it followed by 8 hours of blow torching, drilling, drill failure, drill only turning counter-clockwise, drill bits breaking off, etc etc

Just remember, you'll need an alignment after you do the tie rods. I am doing both sides (driver and passenger) and replacing both the inner and outter tie rods. I was smart and got the lifetime alignment by Firestone last year, so I don't have to pay for it again.

What brand of ball joint? I've read some nasty complaints about cheap aftermarket ones. I am doing mine soon and going with Moog.

Whatever you do, don't go with a cheap Chinese axle. I did that and regret it. Major vibration. About to change it out with a rebuild Subaru axle.

Michelin HydroEdge with GreenX. Got en on my car. Love em.

My compressor recently kicked the bucket. Wouldn't engage no matter what I did. Replaced it with a rebuild model, $400. Oof.

I got whatever they had at Advance Auto Parts last summer. Works great, no further codes.

No more politics, people! Can we talk about the flash?

Quit knocking the ethanol! LOL!

I tell people to remove those and get a regular lugnut. Saves a lot of headache at 2am.

Hey folks. If you're in Chicago and need help I'm working at a garage that is open 24/7. Check us out at: http://dagostinoautoservice.com/

GD's the boss.

Time to take the cylinder head off, send it for rebuilding and put down a new headgasket. Sorry.

No reverse sounds like a band. You'll likely need to open the trans and fix it. the NSS is on the side of the trans, externally.

These will save you gas, as confirmed by the July 2010 Consumer Reports http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/name/hydroedge-tires http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=HydroEdge+with+Green+X

You might want to check the Neutral Position Sensor on the housing of the tranny. I once had a problem that required using the gear release button when the NSS was bad. In the end of the day you might be required to rebuild your transmission. The exact fault might be elusive (to me) as I don't know the innards of a tranny.