bstone

I know which is the NSS, so I'll hopefully find the reverse switch easily.

Where specifically can I find the reverse switch? Is it near the neutral safety switch? Once I know where it is I'll climb under the take a look.

I failed the state safety inspection yesterday because my reverse lights wouldn't come on. 97 OBW AT. I replaced both bulbs- did not help. I checked fuses and found the fog light fuse to be dead. The drivers side fog light has charring- looks like it shorted out. About a month ago I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission. I have 60 days to remedy the issue. Please help!

GD, I do wish you were not on the other side of the country. I have some electrical oddities that would love your attention.

GD, do you ever do HG jobs with the engine still in? Obviously easier to take it out, but curious. Yeah also can replace the PCV Plate and the rear main seal if it's leaking.

I changed the Duty C on my OBW and I recall the drive shaft sliding back in pretty easily. Maybe you have to line it up just right?

It's that way on my 97 OBW. I have the same question. I have to turn on the overhead light in order to adjust the temp.

I added it there, but I think there should be a few sticking on top of this forum with frequently asked questions- like how to pull CEL codes, ABS codes and TCU codes.

How To: Read transmission codes

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117234

Stick please?

Is it possible to put this as a sticky?

Once and for all, let's start some How Tos. This one should be how to pull transmission codes. We should do another one for ABS codes. So, here is how to read transmission codes using the "secret handshake" method. Here is what those codes mean: If the light blinks 2 times a second this means there are no codes. If the light blinks 4 times a second this means there is a power supply or grounding problem. If the light doesn't blink or show up then there is a problem with light's circuit.

Wow. Replaced both the engine and the trans and, well, everything else. Sounds like my car!! (Also a 97 OBW)

Do you have a lift or do you just use a jack? I have to admit I love the lift and not working on my back.

At the garage I work at we charge $70/hr (used to be 65, went up over the summer) and the mechanic gets half. So yeah, doing it from home you make a lot more. The downside is, of course, the shop is the one spending money on advertisement and feeding you customers.

I guess the price also changes based on region. In the Chicago area it's probably more expensive for labor and machine shop charges than in the more rural areas. Gosh, I once saw a reputable shop in nowhere South Carolina for $50/hr labor.

If your HG is blown then you'll need more than the labor of a mechanic, you'll need the machine shop as well. I couldn't imagine doing it all for less than $1500. That's really the lowest I would charge.

That's a very good point.

I put it back on with superglue. Seems to be holding. Ran the engine and it's not coming off. Thanks, all!

Wowsers. That's nuts. I'll plug it for reals in the morning.

What is this? What does it do and now what? I stuck a shop rag in the hole so the engine doesn't die now. I tried gluing it back on with red permatex but that barely held.

Went to the hardware store and got a 1mm pitch bolt. Was very careful and got it into the bottom hole in the IACV. Will take it for a drive and see if there is any difference. Gosh I hope so.

Sway bar links. At high speeds they will cause vibration when they are worn out.

That does explain a lot, actually.